alby96

Why would a guy get a new pitman arm? I just got the Box and the shaft, haven't put them on the truck yet, but didn't think the pitman arm needed to be changed or don't know the reason why it would be needed.

Thanks for the help guys I'll give her a go and see if I can narrow it down.

Ok, I've done some searching and can't really find what Im looking for. My Blinkers started to malfunction on me lately and at first it was intermittent. Sometimes they would work and sometimes they wouldn't. This went on for a day or so and now they just don't work at all. My hazards do though. My lights are good it has something to do with just the turn signal system. Does anyone have a for sure answer as to what could be the issue? I'm definitely electronically challenged. Thanks

Alright thanks I'll give that a try!! if i were to stretch a chain from the factory removal mounts and basically have no slack in the chain so when I hook up the cherry picker the chain won't hit the cowl do you think it would work? So theoretically the chain will be almost tight from each hanger mount taking away the steep angle so the chain won't hit the cowl since i only need to raise it a few inches? Let me know if I'm not making sense to you lol

Ya I've helped take a 360 out of a buddies 97 1/2 ton and we didn't take the mounts off and with 3 of us all mangled up and trying our hardest it took at least an hour and a whole lot of frustration to line everything up and get it back in because of the cowl . So I'd rather not go through that again haha. Well should I even bother taking the engine out? Is it possible to pull the pan and put some RTV on there and reinstalling it with the engine in there?

Ya lol I was hoping he would see this and chime in . If he takes a while I might PM the guy. He does know a lot and I'm pretty sure he's done it a few times just for fun haha.

Alright, just looking for some advice or maybe some direction towards a video or thread that I can't find on pulling the engine. I have all the necessary tools since on base here they have a hobby shop with lifts and cherry pickers and blah blah blah. Basically I have an oil leak or maybe 2 :banghead: lol. The guy who fixed the KDP back in the day when my dad owned the truck didn't do a good job with the gasket when he put the gear case cover back on, and I'm thinking my crank seal is leaking as well. And my oil pan gasket is going, which to my understanding you basically have to pull the engine due to that snug crossmember in the way. Can anyone help me out that has done this before? Just looking for maybe some pointers or warnings against some of the things people ran into. I am going to take the engine mounts off from the bolts on the block instead of the slots to make it easier to put back in. And while I have it out is their anything else I should take care of? Thanks!!! Scotty

My HX35 on my 12v is really loud. I took out the silencer ring as well and have a BHAF and a 4 inch straight pipe. I don't really have anyone to compare to side by side but its honestly really loud. Especially when i shift from gear to gear and I shift at a high RPM. It screams.

Mid 70's? wow man I wasn't a twinkle in my parents eyes at that time :lmao2:ha ha just giving you a hard time. Ya I can see what you mean. When stuff first comes out it always takes a while to sway most people from the way they've always done it. I'm kind of the same way. Oil works and it has for years but I've been entertaining the idea anyway. I'm waiting for about another 5k miles when I do the Crank seal fix and then I'll probably make the switch. It just doesn't seem like a common choice with our trucks unless I'm just behind the curve, maybe because of the price.

Well right now I'm down in the hottest/sunniest place on earth. Not the best place for the Marine Corps to send a pale skinned ginger :lmao:but oh well life is tough. Once I get out though I'm more than likely heading back up to Montana so it might be something I do in the near future. Only 514 days 13 hours 16 minutes and 42 seconds left.................but who's counting. :woot:Now is there a process to go to synthetic or do you just drain the oil and then dump in the synthetic?

Is anyone running full synthetic oil in their 12 valves? Just curious on if our engines are able to use it and if there are any benefitting factors or if it's something we should stay away from.

huh! I stand corrected. Well Im of no use to you then lol. At least I can see what yours looks like and now I know.

So from reading through this thread I've found myself confused over this ABS thing . When I bought my hub assembly I never got a Non ABS hub assembly or hub assembly w/ABS option. Its just one big bearing/hub assembly with no sensors or wires on it. But doing some research I can only find hub assemblies with an ABS sensor wire starting from 98 and newer trucks. My truck has ABS like I said before but I think it's rear wheal ABS only, which in my case would explain why I didn't run into it. So if Im not mistaken you shouldn't even have to deal with your ABS at all, but I could be wrong. All I did was go to O'reily's and they had the unit bearing assemblies in stock. Probably not the highest quality I could have gotten but oh well. Maybe some day when I have 2 grand to spare I can get the Manual hub conversion kit.

lol well I do remember one of your videos and I think it was at night and in your garage or shop. I remember you took the fuel lines out and a few other things to make it easy. It's been a long time though so honestly I don't remember what you named it. Anyway Ill probably just dive in there and take it out the hard and cramped way :banghead: haha

Do they make a leather conditioner of any kind that you could routinely lather on the tire to keep it from cracking? Where does your buddy live? The climate might have an effect on the tires.

Ya I also thought of that as well. ISX, I seem to remember you having a video that showed you taking off the lift pump and how you got to it to make it easier to reach. I searched youtube far and wide and couldn't find it. Did you take it off youtube? I was gonna check that out as well before i did anything.

E-5 USMC2009 to PresentEAS Jan 14'MCT Camp PendletonATC School Pensacola, FLAir Traffic Controller, MCAS Yuma, AZCan't wait to get back to Montana!!!!!

Thats a good point. I don't see a huge amount of miles regularly so mine would probably do the same thing. oh well. I did the math and it was like 3200 or more for the ones I would get if I were to get some. :spend::spend: OUCH

ok. I didn't think of that. Would you recommend PB blaster or would white lithium be better since it will last and keep it lubed for a while?

Haha oh well then I take it back. All I know is I have ABS and it had nothing to do with my hubs. I didn't have any sensors to deal with or anything. I think you're right though about the ABS stuff being in the rear cause I've never come across it. But I'm gonna look into it now that I'm thinking about it. I'm not even sure if it's still working ha.

You know....I'm not sure. And I thought you were talking about your front hubs. My bad lol.

So is anyone running those 19.5 rims and tires from Rickson wheel manufacturing? I'm curious to see how they wear and what people think about them. It's extremely expensive but if you get 2-4 times the life out of them, why not save up and then get them. I rarely pull anything and I rotate regularly so it might be in my best interest to start a savings for them in the future

When i changed my unit bearings I didn't have to do anything with the ABS, and I have ABS. I'm pretty positive that the sensor is somewhere else. All you do is press the studs out of the rotor, change the unit bearing and press the new studs in. And i would get new studs. Might as well.

So today i got my pre filter and seal in the mail so i ran over tho the hobby shop and changed it along with deleting the pre heater. When I went to hit the primer on the lift pump my little rubber thing just fell off and my primer was kinda stuck. It wouldn't pop back out once i pushed it in and i can't get it to come back out. Has anyone ever had this problem and should i be worried about anything. The truck runs fine still but just kinda wondering. Thanks.

Does anyone know why my truck doesn't start so smooth as other 12 valves ive seen or heard? I've seen countless videos of 12v's that start instantly and mine takes a little bit. Most of the time I give it a quick nudge in the throttle but I'd like to figure out why it starts different. My uncle has a 92 and it starts instantaneously and it always struck me odd that mine takes a little bit of cranking. Does anyone know the cause of this or am I alone?