CumminsTech

I agree with this as well, same thing with valve bridges etc. the "touching" components in the valve train should always go back in the same position/orientation as they were removed due to the specific wear patterns. Some might disagree but this is what I was taught in the Cummins factory training classes I attended as well a what I've been taught over the years building/overhauling heavy Diesel engines. I would personally replace them, better safe than sorry.

Of the times I've broke down I've only got towed once and it was while I was on my way to work on the interstate and highway patrol would not let my boss come with the gooseneck to haul me to the shop they called the wrecker as soon as he found out it would not fire to move off to the exit ramp. Was a little frustrating because it would have been loaded on the trailer the same way as the tow company would have winched up on the deck and off I go. But ya can't argue with the troopers?. It's always a positive having friends who will come at the drop of a hat to do a road rescue, I'd rather pay my friends in food, beverages and return the favor than pay a outlandish tow bill. It is odd that the timing is jumping around like you describe, not just staying derated?

That's some crappy news man, but looking at the bright side at least you made it home on its own power not on the end of a hook.

I agree there is something going on in the fuel system seeing as the pump is isolated from the ecm. I don't know how confident I am about the key being sheared but I guess you can take off the breather from the gear cover and see in with a light and mirror probably have to take the nut off the pump shaft to see for sure but you might be able to without. I think I'd lean more toward injectors if they are not from a reputable builder. Could be ones fueling more than another like mike asked do we know for sure if they were pop tested and flow matched as a set. I see Bosch rvs soo never mind on the reputable builder part.

Thanks guys! Detroits are not bad well ddec 3 series 60s anyways they are stout and stupid simple. Don't care to much for the dd15s but I don't ever have to work on them cause they never got put in petes. Mostly Cummins and Cats and the paccar MX is what I play with.

It's all in how you hold the plug to look at it. Go by the picture if you are looking at the plug in your hand it should have the arch like a smiley face it's the lower right pin on the plug is #7. pin 7 on the pump, which is the pin on the BOTTOM row of the socket on the Injection Pump, closest to the engine,

I know it says it's for a no start case but the procedure is still the same checking the wires on the VP plug. HOT WIRE TEST - THE "FOR SURE TEST" TO DETERMINE IF THE VP44 IS WHY THE ENGINE WON'T START It is very rare, but possible, for a problem with the wiring harness or the CAN Bus wires to prevent the engine from starting, so if you want to be 100% sure it IS the Injection Pump causing the no start, follow the following directions exactly, to be sure of not damaging a possibly good pump. This test POSITIVELY eliminates the possibility of overlooking an electrical problem caused by other components that could affect the start or run function of the VP44, as long as you have verified fuel delivery to the Injection Pump. Remove the electrical plug at the back of the Injection Pump and hot wire the pins on the pump as follows. Get two wires long enough to reach from the battery to the VP44. Install an INSULATED ¼ inch female spade connector onto one end of each wire.Use a set of dykes and cut the flat part and one of the "curls" away from each spade connector to leave one "curl" , which will be about the right size to go over the pin on the pump. Connect one INSULATED connector to pin 7 on the pump, which is the pin on the BOTTOM row of the socket on the Injection Pump, closest to the engine, to preferably fused (10 amp is fine) positive battery power in the PDC (Fuse box under the hood), or directly to the positive battery terminal if you like to take risks!. Connect the other INSULATED connector to the pin directly above the previous connection, the top row of pins, the one closest to the engine, and attach the other end to battery ground. Now try to start the engine and if it doesn’t start, you absolutely positively 100% need an Injection Pump! If the engine starts this way but NOT with the big plug installed on the pump, you know there is something in the harness or CAN bus wiring to the ECM telling or causing the engine to not start. Call me for help if this is the case. Here is a link to the blue chip diagnostics page https://www.bluechipdiesel.com/vp44_diagnostics.html Here is a pic of the VP plug and the wires coming from it in the engine harness with there functions I may have missed but how are you checking for dtc's? I'm wondering because if it is throwing a p1283 which is vp pump controller detects continuous voltage at idle select pin 34 on engine harness or pump controller detects open or short to ground on idle select pin 34 on engine harness the symptoms are that it will only idle or idle will be stuck at a slightly higher set speed. This happens when communication is lost between the vp44 pump controller and ecm.

Mines blue over silver too. I really like the paint but living in Wisconsin there is a little rust starting and I can't stand it. Rust free southern body parts are in order eventually, would love to keep the same paint scheme. Trucks only got 122k on it I got it from the original owner who spec'd the truck to order. It's lead a pretty easy life. I got gauges and a fass to install plus some other fun stuff in the works. I can't leave anything stock. Lol

Hey guys, my names Derek I'm from Redgranite Wisconsin. Been lurking around here for a few months now, I must say this place is addicting. I currently have a 01 2500 quad cab shortbox 4wd auto. It's my first 24 valve. Pretty much stock except for a diablosport power puck and mbrp 4"turbo back straight exhaust and a bhaf. Named her the bluebird because it's patriot blue and I guess it fits. I've had plenty of 7.3 power strokes in the past but figured it's time for a Cummins. I work for JX Peterbilt as a service tech/ 2nd shift service manager. I hold Cummins full service qualifications in the ISX,ISM,ISL,ISB,ISC,and N14 family's of engines. Also am Paccar MX engine certified and ASE Master certified truck equipment technician.I've been around the medium, heavy truck field for 14+ years. Work on plenty of cats and detroits as well. If it's got #2 in the tank I'll play with it. Glad to have stumbled on this site lots of good info here!