Zacharynels

If you want to try to do your own timing use these instructions. http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/94-98-tech-articles/257870-timing-40-minutes-12-valve-2nd-gen-engine.html

I just wanted to comment on one of the earlier posts in here about EGT changes from having a BHAF vs. stock air box. The stock air box does not have a higher CFM than certain BHAFs They ones from napa range from 445 - to around 785 CFM, (not perfect numbers) If you use the stock intake tubing the filter will sit close to the turbo and needs a heat sheild or custom enclosure to lower the temperature of the air going into the intake from the temperature under the hood. I have heard of lowers of up to 150* EGTs when drilling a 3 - 3 1/2" hole in the firewall and running silicone tubing or pipe into the firewall hole, and cutting the same hole in the bottom of your stock, custom or aftermarket air box (as long as it's sealed) this will provide ACTUAL ram air induction and will cool your EGTs. Cummins recommends 50-80* for temperatures of air entering intake. Some people running BHAFs without heat shields run the risk of taking in hotter air than recommended. The insulation in front of the firewall moves aside to drill your hole, and can be moved back to cover the hole from sight, if need be. The turbo will however be louder inside the cab, only downside in my opinion. I want to build my own heatbox and ram induction for a Napa 2790 BHAF or should I go with the Napa 6637? What do you guys think about filter choice and what would you make the shielding with?

I just did all my valves on my truck. Finally got the feeler gauge and some time to do it. Only a few of the valves were too loose, the rest just needed a little adjustment. I think it took me like 30 or 40 minuets in the cold rainy weather we're having. Found TDC by waiting for 1I and 1E to be loose and adjusted 1 I & E, 2 I, 3 E, 4 I, and 5 E, Marked my Top Dead Center and used Alternator bolt to turn 1 revolution. I proceeded to adjust 2 E, 3 I, 4 E, 5 I, and 6 I & E. Started the truck cold, engine lope seems to be gone now, maybe i didn't have a pissed injector. Still going to pop those and clean soon. Will drive Later in the day and post if it made any improvement in the poor state it seemed to be driving. Timing is still retarded, so I wont have much to go on as far as improvements.

This plays all Four videos in queue. Least we know where one is now

Here is a link to a four part video for checks related to low power and other symptoms of issues. I don't know if this has been posted on here of not but has lots of info. Enjoy

Just wait till I overclock... BzzzZZZzzzz

I noticed you have the I5, what machine is that in and how do you like it so far?

Just recently in FL it's started to get cold. 30s at night... Haha real cold right :lol:Anyway, my truck has always started right up after sitting at night fine no problems.It has a brand new (as of a few months ago) Carter fuel pump fuel filter was changed at the same time.Lately however, after sitting all night long it will start up a little rough, no extra cranking, but will have to warm up slightly before taking off. If I don't wait for warm up it will run rough for about 2 minutes while chuggin, sputtering or whatever it is. If I leave it parked out of gear and give it throttle it will also sputter and spill white smoke.I might have a few ideas as to what it is, but I'd like to get some input from everyone.Yesterday I let the fuel filter drain a little while running the truck but it didn't help it today when I started it.I think it could be water or air I'm gonna change the fuel and oil filters soon. Along with the hose that was SUPPOSED to be marine diesel grade hose that seems to have some exterior cracks in it already.Let me know if I should check anything else. P.S. I think I may have the beginnings of a bad injector.Money is tight right now but I will be finishing up a job soon and should have a little extra cash to fix stuff. Let me know what you all think.Thanks Zach

Im scared to use anything but syntorq

Cold lube will effect the way it shifts

If money permits, get oil and fuel. My .02 centsCould be well worth it if something were to happen.There are a few places to custom mount a 4th gauge that are fun to do and original.

400 rpm is too low and is bad for your cam actually, with the low end torque the engine puts out. If it's a 5speed it should idle somewhere around 800 at idle. Maybe a little less with the AC on. Make sure that someone has not messed with the high end idle and that you are adjusting the low. Overflow valve could be bad too though. If it were me, I would hook a good tach up to it and adjust the idle or have someone who knows how do it quick. Only takes about 2 minutes with two tools to adjust it, while the truck is OFF. Also, once there is no more lope in your idle, from being turned low, listen to the truck as it idles, it should be constant if you here a lope you may have a pissed off injector. Another thing to check for, make sure that none of your fuel lines are bulging under pressure, if they are replace them so they don't collapse and clog the filter or fuel pump. Check the fuel heater pre-screen delete, repair or replace the heater element (middle section) because those will also draw air into your fuel. Obviously try replacing the fuel filter and overflow after you have checked all fuel lines and heater first. No sense in wasting money when it just might be dirty. Before you perform the fuel line and heater check run some Diesel Kleen through a tank of fuel. (I recommend only running Diesel Kleen and never put seafoam in your cummins.) And, see if that helps at all. After running the additive change out the filter and screens. If that fails sounds like overflowHope this helps

I wish I could be more sure of where the noise was coming from, I believe the front axle but who knows. Unfortunately I need to do some seal work on both my tranny and my t-case, they have developed small leaks. I will be doing some more testing soon to narrow it down further. Thank you for all the info on this. It has definitely helped me, hopefully someone else can use it too.

When it was happening I did have a vacuum leak at the time, and that very well may have been the transfer case shifting in an out of 4wd because it was losing vacuum so fast but gaining it back upon acceleration. Causing it to shift in and out, making a very audible "clunk". I really haven't been able to test the 4wd thoroughly since the repairs. I've only needed to use it for a few seconds at a time since then.

Hey thanks for the picture. How much does he charge to rent out that steamer anyway? Hah. I'm gonna check the movement with the cover off here today or tomorrow. Is the vacuum strong enough to pull and push vacuum without the rubber clamps on CAD lines?

Thank you, I have seen a few posts about it being a vent but no one sounded sure of it. That is good to know. The rubber connector at the end is purely to protect the line/hose? And, yeah I was having some troubles early on with 4wd... It would shift into 4x4 but when driving with it engaged it would clunk (I believe in and out of 4x4) I have pulled the carrier, all bearings, axles has been disassembled and re-sealed on both sides, along with CAD clean up. My actuator may be going bad? I don't think there is any vacuum leak either. Everything else works fine including cruise, AC/heat.

I have a green vacuum line that run from T-case, up towards the firewall, along with the red and black CAD lines. The only difference is the green line has a rubber connecting end but is just hanging out not attached to anything. Can anyone explain what this line is for?

Well, I didn't end up buying a compressor and set of air tools, I went with the less time consuming route of having me and my mechanic work on it. 4hrs of labor in $$$ couldn't buy tools or compressor anyway. We, replaced front main, timing cover, tabbed the KDP, cleaned the rest of front end/motor components, cleaned and replaced the front axle seals on the D60 and got my new calipers and pads installed. Took more like 6hrs in reality, because we had to fab up a seal press out of aluminum haha. But, it all worked out for the best

I will know prices tomorrow. Busy with move into a new home and lots of Dr. Appointments are delaying these fixes but as soon as I know how much he's charging I'll compare that to a set of air tools and compressor, which may actually be less seeing as how i have no compressor either. I could really use those air tools for other things too...

Yeah, I recall seeing the green go from the drivers side of the block, back under the firewall and ran above the T case, I noticed the green red and black were together in the bundle. This may actually be the cause of 4x4 seemingly wanting to shift out and back into 4x4. I'm pretty sure there are NO other vacuum leaks and green seems like a likely culprit. In the daylight I'm going to check to see if I can't find where it connects to the rest of the vacuum. Hopefully nothing is broke. I couldn't find anything online anywhere stating much about this green line. I think the 01s setup is the same as mine too.

This is a great writeup and even better video! :thumb1:Thank you!

Does anyone know where and how the green vacuum line that runs all the way from the engine bay to the transfer case and is paired with the red/blk vacuum lines for CAD? It seems to be "hanging" around under hood. I can't figure out where it attaches. Oh, also check this out...

Thank you so much, this is what I've been looking for. Beat me to it!

Yeah I am familiar with what the vacuum lines are sent to and what they activate. I actually found out today that my cruise control DOES work, the light on the dash however does NOT work. I have a feeling the only wires cut under my dash (blk with orange stripe) have something to do with this. They are hanging by my fuse box from behind the fuse panel. I am pretty sure my ABS is causing my rear brakes to engage more or first. This was noticeable more than ever, when I was painting my frame, and drove the truck around with no bed in the rain. I am gonna have to have my drums heat checked. And, also think that if my ABS is NOT working correctly it will only increase the problem once I redo my brakes. I need to find the source of this problem. This article has a good post by someone who found an article of the actual ABS system used in our trucks. http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/94-98-powertrain/135570-abs-brake-problems.html#post3402664 Kelsey Hayes ABS. I cannot stand not having good if not, decent brakes.