rogerash0

Would it be reasonable to backprobe a 5v circuit with a fluke while the truck is running to see the delta from 5v? I know atleast on computers you never have a perfect 5v on the 5v rail, its always +/- say 0.25v depending on the PSU.

Here's a pull from today thats a little shorter than the one in the data log. Very bottom gauge is the s475, showing a max of 23psi. Middle gauge is drive pressure for the 62mm SXE. I want to say it drops back down to 40-45psi once the WG opens, but i should get it on camera to know for sure. Top gauge is overall boost which is out of focus unfortunately, but looks to be 44psi +/-1psi. 20200729_093024.mp4

I have gone over the grounds on this truck like a slave. W-t ground mod helped the most. Ive also ditched the grid heater, my theory is it was responsible for all my dead alternators (including new bosch ones). I know it stays on until you eclipse 10, 15 or 20mph, I can't recall the exact speed. Also today I had 18-19psi fuel pressure, it dropped to 10psi at WOT, and I had 13.7v.

Hmm.. yeah I feel like it means I need to run an abnormally aggressive fuel table since I'm flowing 10psi when the computer/quad thinks I'm flowing 5psi. I'll probably have to go out at 11pm to get a good 4th gear pull. My lockup switch was making the solenoid tick when the truck was turned off so I got rid of it, becsuse eventually lockup went away and quit working (then magically came back several days lster), but maybe ill tap into the trans wire down at the trans instead of up at the PCM and i can find another switch to try.

Ok new oem cummins map sensor installed.. running me's tune he posted earlier in the thread. I noticed that when driving normally, when i see 10psi on the manual boost gauge the quad is reading 5, even with the new oem cummins MAP sensor. When its showing 18psi on the manual gauges, the quad will show 11. Eventually the digital boost gauge catches up, for example, on a WOT pull shown in the datalogs here, I see 44psi on the manual gauge (60psi of drive for a moment bc it spikes) and 41psi as a recorded max on the quad. I also loaded my extreme extreme tune but with min tps at 0 and max tps at 100 and it doesnt fall on its face (and seemingly glitch out) that way. I achieved the same total boost. I know my total boost would be higher with the .80ar housing on the 62mm SXE . Its got the .70ar housing on there. I suppose this data log doesnt show 4th gear locked, ill have to jump on the interstate again to get max boost in 4th gear locked. I betcha at 42psi/WOT that im not even in the pedal long enough for 3rd gear to lock up. Oh well .. its just not easy to do where I live right now due to traffic and cops. I'm on a peninsula... iQuad-2020-07-29-09.13.227996391603758438680.csv

I got the new sensor put in and will have the time to post another WOT run here on weds, thurs or Friday.

Hopefully the new sensor fixes the issue. If not I'm probably up **** creek with a paddle, eh? Lol. It definitely doesn't have a boost leak, thats according to Drew at d&j, too. If i can make 60psi on level 3 I might be in for a real treat. Otherwise maybe I need to swap the edge back on to see if its a weird box problem, but i know that's about a 1% chance probably.

No, if i did, I would have disclosed it. And, if i sold it with the tune on my truck it would be useless for the next guy. Plus I'd probably be getting max canbus. It leaves the speedo calibration in there after u remove the smarty. Something I didn't think of at the time. And quad and edges tuners have never fixed my speedo with their "wheel size calibration", no matter how many times I've tried.

I noticed on your tune that my drive to boost pressure is not so 1:1 after 20psi. It was spiking to 60psi drive at 40psi boost and then leveling back out like perhaps the wastegate is "lazy". Its a spring wastegate from stainless diesel Sub 25 psi and it looks to stay 1:1 tho. I didnt get a good look at the manual gauges at all on those pulls bc traffic was bad. Max boost on lvl 5 reported on the datalog was 40. Id like to do it again and record the manual gauges with chest mount go pro bc i bet the manual gauge would have showed 50-55psi.

Its mutual. Moving on, we got good data logs. I did floor it.. i had to take it on the interstate to hit OD. Otherwise max boost i made by reported 75mph (65 in reality) was 30psi. lvl 3 was pretty weak for a 600hp rwhp truck. lvl 5 is a lot stronger up top.. Interesting data, boost shows 4psi then 21psi next line down and its maxed canbus just about (200 shy?) At 21psi. I have two pulls, both interstate, both to a reported 95 and 97 mph. The higher MPH pull, 97 mph i think, was on lvl 3. Here: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1z7PMzpMqopx-XrfltnErZthtEMV5VCoS/view?usp=drivesdk The lower MPH pull, 95 mph i think, was on lvl5. Here: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1z82ULzarFKmrh5TnRwlLL5E5Usp1Zaxj/view?usp=drivesdk Remember my speedo reads probably 13-14mph fast at "95 mph". When the 35s go back on it will probably be just right. I forgot to pull the cal out before selling the smarty.

Na, you have me wrong if you think I'm doubting your the logs. I wouldn't hang around if I thought you or your data was bad. I will day my butt dyno was correct that timing lvl2 was faster, cleaner amd better than timing 4 or 5 on the Edge, we proved that on the firepunk dyno, and almost everyone would have said Im wrong about that. I also understand and appreciate smooth useable power and I understand the perception of hard hitting power. I ride dirt bikes a lot, often on slick hard pack surfaces where power delivery/throttle application and engine character are key. I like that you have logs and data to prove what your saying. Louder pipes or more smoke or a harder hitting tune dont really make me think **** is faster. I've wanted to use more TPS all along for years now because I want my trans to see more theottle input to help delay shifts, so that rpm stays up and smoke stays down. I fought stack shifting and bad shifting patterns for a long time and eventually narrowed it down to a TV bracket that needed bent back proper down at the trans.

Blue bar is canbus OF for over fuel. How is that actually calculated? I understand it's more light switchy, thats kinda common sense, but my from my angle if she will take the fuel and burn it, I want to give it everything she will take to reduce the amount of time it takes for maximum power. Thats for a max effort tune, atleast. Im general what im getting at is perhaps in a race (not that I race) you could shave 1sec or a half sec delay/ reaction time off by making it fuel harder/faster. Unless when u floor it the ecm really has no different reacting time to the fueling, you just have more resolution in the fueling from the pedal and the tenth of a sec difference from half throttle and max throttle when flooring it

Lol 50% tps and she's normally making max ponies. I havnt used 100% pedal in ages . It was already after 9pm and im in a cul-de-sac where everyone can hear the beast start. So I'll see about running it tmrw.

Dang man thats gonna be scary. Its late and it cooled off. I could go out now. Nee senslr gets here next Weds or Thurs. You want the data log off that pull?

I've ran the 35s for awhile and towed with them, so I know it loads it down a lot. I have them, so it is what it is. Me - I read what you said. I can do the WOT pull you asked for to 60mph probably. Whats the minimum fueling you want me to use? I don't want to die. Min fueling of 90% and max of 120% okay? With 1200us wiretap or no wire tap? I don't think I've ever floored it since I got the big injectors. Every time I went high high tps, I hit my tps max setting and it smokes and falls on its face like the original post was about. But ill set tps max for wiretap at 100% so hopefully that doesn't happen.