rogerash0

Most woodruff keys are firmly pressed into the shaft and don't fall out, be it for whatever.

I notice you show a Max of 3255 rpm. That's about the max I see too, quad doesn't fuel to 3600 or 3700 rpm like it claims. My edge juice comp you could feel fueling to 3600. It wasn't ultra hard fuelling past 3200, it was more like extended topend power. I still have the tuner and will do back to back testing when I have my quad 100% dialed.

Have the canbus fuel readout on screen when your crusing and I bet you will see low fueling #s that would cause low boost at cruise. You need fuel to make boost. Less fuel used at cruise better mpgs. Engine load is the fueling # / 4095 , so it's a function of the same thing. I did the math real quick whilst driving and saw that it was spot on..

Bummer, ok. It would help me a lot to know for certain when it's being applied. The whole eco gas thing with offset I don't understand or use at all. I really wish quad had a proper publication or description of all this stuff. It's not like there ain't room on the screen....

I thought there was a wiretap readout in % or numerical, but I'm only seeing canbus fuel. There's no readout for amount of wiretap applied?

That's third gear locked right at 2000-2100rpm, right at 50mph actual, rolling on flat ground at sea level. Fourth unlocked/same speed/same flat road will be under the power curve around 1400 +/-100rpm, and probably nets 18-22% cruise workload.

I see 11-13% +/-1% crusing on my daily drive... Is that about as good as it gets? Also if tps minimum is set to 35% and low boost is set to 5 psi, will the quad bring in wiretap as soon as the earliest/first condition is met, or after the highest/last condition is met?

My Q is on IBM Mobile's grounding of the PCM, why not ground it as soon as possible to the chassis somewhere close to the PCM, instead of taking it to the battery.

Getting the latest and greatest Quadzilla app/timing options available on my $30 Amazon Fire tablet was made possible by installing the Google Play store on the Amazon Fire ($30 2017 November model is) via Option 1 here: https://www.howtogeek.com/232726/how-to-install-the-google-play-store-on-your-amazon-fire-tablet/ To import tunes on the Amazon Fire, installing ES File Manager makes it possible. It's also a great program to quickly send tune files from phone to Amazon Fire via bluetooth, so its use doubles.

No, it updated in the past, and after checking that the version number was current I figured no need. I would have as a preventative measure prior posting, but I can't access the app store so i actually have to move the installer file (.apk I think) from my phone to the fire, so it's a little more time staking. My phone updated the profiles without needing to uninstall/reinstall the app. *Below is in context to a 24v compound turbo engine s362/s475, written to help anyone who reads it in the archives. On a side note, it seems setting the wastegate correctly via adjustable boost elbow has a very thin window for optimal adjustment. Optimal adjustment seems to net the same mid-range and topend performance, but with a lot more bottom end torque/power/pep. I have been messing with it over the course of many months (12ish) with different fueling, different sized turbine housings, 0.70/0.80, and it likes to be mostly closed off, but open enough to flow air so the wastegate will still open. I just did a test run attempting to get a big mid-range boost by opening the adjustable wastegate screw outwards, to let it flow more air to the wg, to open the wastegate earlier, to let the s475 come on sooner, but it feels like the bottom end just got sloppier. This is with 220hp injectors and a stock stall RPM and third gen stock sized tires that revs to roughly 2000rpm right off the line under normal driving conditions here on the East coast where people drive crazy. Wire tap set to come on at 5psi or >30% throttle. So the fuelling is all there to pickup and utilize any airflow improvements (fueling is on the rich side), set 100% fuel from 0psi on up to 136% by 24psi. Still didn't get any flow results by opening the WG sooner. Experiences in the past doing this on a 0.80 housing netted a mid-range that felt stronger, but I have come to believe the power hit was so powerful that it made the truck feel stronger. In reality the bottom end was just weaker, lazier, making the mid-range feel deceivingly fast. I will still conduct more testing and bolt the 0.80 turbo housing back on eventually, to be sure of my findings, since I have changed torque converters since. If anyone is wondering my truck is almost smokeless / ie. No smoke or a light haze after installing a stock stall torque converter. This is from a DPC/firepunk "slightly lower than stock stall comverter" that'sa300rpm lower than stock. With the stock stall, The engine Revs about 500rpm higher across the board at all throttle positions, making it a much more effective air pump. Maybe 15%-20% slower whilst tc is unlocked, but it cleaned up the smoke big time, almost completely with 220hp injectors and the quadzilla fueling hard at sea level. It doesn't seem like having a wastegate adjusted to a larger opening nets much of anything, rather a smaller opening has much greater results netting more low-end driveability. With my butt Dyno proving to be accurate in past on Lavons Dyno, I am more confident in my findings.

My Amazon tablet is running quad app v1.9.41 but won't update on the vehicles page. It also doesn't show the profiles phone gained during an update, "V2 Dodge 98-02". On the tablet I am running "V2 Dodge 1998-2002" version 2.7. This profile is still limited to the older lower timing values though, ie. 18/23/26/30/30 The truck responds to timing so well it's nuts. Seems like max the quad allows is best. Not being able to run the higher timing values off my tablet is killing me.

This morning with just the key on i could hear insane clicking coming from the trans. I could hear it as I sat in the cab, over the aux trans cooler fan that draws 7-8amps (its fairly loud). Engine was off. I cut the pcm wire for no auto lockup and it functions great but I think it made a solenoid in the trans go ape. Ofcourse I can't tell with the truck running. Runs and drives great. Leaving work now, it's still happening and the frequency doesn't stay quite the same over the period of about 60sec. It'll start to speed up. I might hook that wire back up this weekend. There's only one solenoid in the trans right? And then the gov pressure transducer, right? It's a tick tick tick tick sound, like a turn signal relay that's dealing with a bulb out.

All I can say is it's a firepunk trans. It short shifts right thru first gear like a mofo tho. Drives me nuts because then it's under the curve in second gear instead of right in the meat of the power. Unless I floor it, then revs out and shift perfect. I called Lavon and he said he thinks green shirt springs are in the VB, which is the later / higher rpm shift spring. I would like to pull the valve body and do something about that spring, but I'm a little hesitant to do it, as I am with everything I've never done. Disconnect the two sensors and keep track of where each bolt goes and it's probably not bad to drop the VB. Is also told a pcm update made the earlier trucks shift a bit later, but my pcm has the most up to date flash.... I got to go in the back and see it hooked up to the crysler database.

Perfect, tried it out on my phone and that did it. What's an update button for anyway. Thanks If I lock the converter with my switch at a stand still in first gear my truck doesn't die. It does lock the converter in 2nd tho, and it shakes the truck . If I'm WFO I don't think it'll shake, it'll just scoot real hard. Any thoughts on how damaging that would be to do locked shifts 2-3 and 3-4 at wide open power levels? Talk about lower the timing lol Armet billet input, billet output, sfi flex plate thats not billet and dpc triple disk, Dana 60/70,3rd gen stock size rubber /w 400lbs of sand over the rears ???? Thoughts

Crikey I just did the other week (month, now). I remember it was some weird hokey method that I don't remember. Will do tho. Thx

I just mean on the menu where u input the static values that it wouldn't take moren. I noticed in real life when driving the live readout of the timing is all over the place, often times quite high. I'm running o-rings too, if they're worth anything. I still haven't done a re-torque on my head bolts lol. One day Nobody has a good cheap 300psi pump and fittings to do water meth injection on the cheap do they? I looked around and it didn't seem promising, but I should just jump on Grainger.

Thank you!

Scratch that, im only running 18/21/25/29/30 Looks like I have more head room. I'm running an airdog 200 4g on a airdog 100 base,, asump, no restrictions in the 1/2" lines what so ever, and gas cap 1/2 turn off so it vents 100%. I wish I had 11 psi at WOT! My quad won't let me run higher than 18 & 21 degrees timing at 1500 and 2000 rpm respectively

Ah perfect. Also why don't you run 22/24/28/30. You mentioned 22/24/26/30 but in your other setup you run 27 (that would be on the 2500rpm slider). I'm asking bc in the past my truck got violent and jerky with high timing, that's why I'm just now coming around to it. I think that was a fueling issue all along, though. Ever since I completely took my airdog apart 100% and cleaned poured engine oil over all the seals and cleaned everything pristine it's ran a ton better. Looks like I still hit 0 psi when I floored it and spun the tires today though. But that wasn't with a mechanical gauge to be 100% certain. It wasn't jerky and didn't buck, so my digital reading of minimum fuel pressure @ 0psi may be misconceiving.

I just set mine to 20/24/28/30 and did a burn out turning onto the parkway when I floored it. I assume you hit a pot hole or big bump or had it absolutely screaming? I wasn't trying to do a burn out, so it would suck to do what u did by accident. She's running pretty good. From what I understand, from talking to Don who makes the mach 6s, is the orfice size of the mach 6 is smaller than 6x0.013 but flow is very much comparable. He said the angle and how the hole is shaped is vastly more important than it's size. 6x0.013 is what I said I wanted and he said mach 6 is essentially that. I could tell he was hesitant to say the holes were smaller but that's in a way what he said by immediately mentioning not the size but how he tailors the orfices. I bring that up bc I wonder why you brought up injector hole size in relation to timing.

You say to splice/wire tap down at the trans becasue its a shorter path to ground that way? I read elsewhere to be as close to the pcm connector as possible, and since that was less total wire to run, I went that method. I just need to know which side of the wire splice to cut. Reason why is I assume its a 5v signal wire, being that its orange and black, and it can be switched to ground (duh). So if I cut it off from the PCM, how will it ever get 5v? But if I cut the other side that goes to the trans, how will the solenoid know when its grounded? Obviously there are more wires going to the trans, so there's a second wire to this equation, coming from the PCM, to tell it otherwise. So with that said, I would assume leave the wire from PCM to switch to ground, and cut the wire after the splice, cutting it between the splice & the trans. I'd just rather ask than hack up the harness more than need be.

Haha ya I learnt that with a lifeflight out of the mtns some years ago What did u do exactly?

Damn. That's a penny. Glad u got good parts tho. My big deterrant, if $750 isn't enough, is getting the gears backlash right.

Treed, how much work and money is that to fix?

Awesome, thanks guys O ya, and if I cut the lockup wire do I want it to be left with the ground switch on the pcm or trans side?