jlongjohn

Thanks for the link, I am searching and finding tons of good resources here. So I did a ton of things today. First I disconnected the alternator and took a ride. Somewhat better but some vibration still there. So I have been noticing a screeching sound when pulling out and it was really bad today, I suspected the driveshaft u-joints but when I crawled under and tried to turn it it was solid. Had a friend look underneath while pulling out and he thought he saw movement in the rear u-joint so I looked while he moved the truck and sure enough it was at the rear u-joint. It was very tight but when I took it apart I only found a couple needle bearings in the whole joint. Took it for a ride and the constant vibration was gone but still shudder there under light to no acceleration. So I started testing cables. All were good except the passenger side battery to block. The connection at the block was corroded, I missed doing this one when I went over the body grounds and PCM/ECM grounds. I took it for a ride and it was the same. So I tested voltages at various points with the truck running, and I noticed the ac ripple was fluctuating up and down in rythym with something I could hear in the truck. It was the ISSPRO fuel pressure gauge. Since I have owned it the gauge always bounced up and down from 15-20 constantly while driving. I neede to change the fuel filter anyway so I did the filter and the inline prefilter on my FASS. After the change my pressure is constant at 20, so I took it for a ride and it seems like the issue is gone! So maybe the FASS pump fluctuation or the driveshaft vibration made the shudder worse? I have tried both the stock ecm settings and smarty #3 which is fuel, timing, and boost but not catcher. Didn't want to add torque management yet. Funny thing is it still feels like it limits as my boost and acceleration rise it reaches a point where it lets off and I am still in the pedal. Not sure where to go next.

All, First I want to thank Mopar1973MAN and everyone who has posted here, very helpful. I have recently purchased a 2001 CTD Extended Cab, 2500, Auto with 203K miles. Trans was rebuilt previous to me, not sure what they did or what parts were used. I have a Smarty for it, FASS liftpump, Aftermarket Injector Pump, Oversized Injectors (100HP I think). I have the TC lock/unlock shutter bad. Now it is vibrating even when I let off the pedal and everything I have tried is not working. Here is what I have done so far: Checked all grounds, cleaned and reattached. Removed PCM plugs, cleaned and replugged, Voltmeter and Bench test of Alternator. I need a better meter for this as mine showed it was slowly increasing with RPM's and made it up to .4, thinking meter was bad. The bench test is hard as Advanced Auto is the only one with a tester and their tester just shows that it is under .5 and that they consider that good. I took the Alternator to a reputable rebuild and test shop and they acted like they didnt believe it was an issue and said they tested it and that it was "FINE". I want to rebuild the alternator myself ( have no issue with this, I rebuild everything of my own and my background is electronics, but way back no recent work in this field). Are there recommendations on a good parts supplier for this? And what all should be replaced? I found this online so far: https://www.aspwholesale.com/alternators/denso/er/if/alternator-p10709.html Also I want to test my cables, voltage drop and continuity, what is the best or proper procedure for this? Looking for any help, I love the truck but will not be able to keep it if this cannot be resolved. Just frustrated. Any help is greatly appreciated.