jlongjohn

So I haven't been on much for over a year, lots of family issues and such but my 01 is still truckin. I have parts lined up to do a refresh on the front end, but I have not identified shocks yet. I just read this thread and I am still not decided. I have the original shock towers with a spacer, my truck has what I think is 4-6" of lift. I need to figure out how much exactly. I would like to take some lift out, but I want to ensure my plow mount doesn't get too close to the ground, I like the clearance I have currently, just not the ride or the effect on the suspension parts. Anyone here grab a set of the shock plates that replaces the original shock tower? If I get a set of those plates, how will I go about measuring for the proper length shocks? Any easy method to measure my truck to see how much the current lift is without removing the front spacers? Thanks gents, good to see the forum still doing well.

Sold, at least in theory. I’m looking at the resonators and diamond eye to see these clamps. I like finding new info and/or products.... didnt want to Compound the issue!

Well that would be a great deal easier! I will have to start stocking some new parts, I used V band a lot at work and wondered why the automotive industry wouldn’t to make things easier. These band clamps are great and now I see maybe the diesel world is just better all around at using better mechanical designs.

Dang those compounds always sneak there way in there, not sure Santa would spring for those.. ? So I have read on the resonators a lot, was not sure I would get enough attenuation or not. They need a shop where you can slip them on and try them before you buy. It’s like a bad marriage, you’re going to have this for a while before you get the urge, money, or a good enough reason to get a new one! Thanks for the link @Mopar1973Man that’s a good read and some good video clips. I should have searched for that first. I am good with a welder so I might throw a Donaldson on there first seeing the book data I can match up a good one to my pipe size and flow. Then if I don’t like it I’ll cut it out and try something else. Maybe I’ll get fancy and weld up some two hole flanges so I can change em out easy..... ahh I love metal working!

Ok I love the sound of my truck, it’s straight piped to a large tip and has an open air box with great turbo sound. But I have to say it, it’s too loud. So simple question, can I make it quieter without sacrificing flow? Looking maybe at muffler or dual mufflers or maybe some sort of attenuator. I daily drive and use this for normal stuff like going through a drive through or stopping to talk for a second with friends or other parents at my kids school. But I also use it like a work truck, towing and hauling campers, equipment, firewood, etc. Can anyone help with this dilemma?

Thanks @Mopar1973Man I’m in it for the pump health so anything else is just icing...

First time I have used it, not sure what previous owner used. I wish you could buy off-road high sulfur for on road and just pay them their damn tax. Got the 16 oz size and added to a half tank. Will see if there is any seat of the pants difference tomorrow....

While waiting, check all grounds, clean and reconnect. Don’t forget the gray plastic connectors on the large grounds by the passenger battery. Use dielectric grease. My worst offenders were the ground strap from the pcm to the firewall and the main battery ground to the engine block. Then test AC noise again, ensure all electronics are off, including radio and hvac blower. Then turn one thing on and then off at a time, never two things at once. Check the AC noise each time and see if something causes your noise to increase.

Can you do it again and burn them together from the beginning?

Not to mention Dodge like other manufacturers fix these issues by making new models. You can’t expect them to have any responsibility on a vehicle past their warranty period unless it is a huge safety issue, like recall status items. My my issue seems to have been fixed by addressing driveline vibration in the uv joints as well as the fuel pump (FASS), and the hvac blower resistor. The resistor was the worst, keep in mind any electric fan is noisy electrically by design, add bad resistors controlling rpms on said motor and wow the ac noise is terrible. You want a for sure fix, find someone to build a current ECM/PCM computer to replace the ones on these trucks and make the control signals less susceptible to noise. Likely won’t happen in whole, so find your noise. I recommend finding someone with an oscilloscope that knows how to use it and start tracing ac noise levels on the dc signals. Amplitude should increase as you get closer to the source and will get choppy as you find the multiple leak (ground) dissipation points.

Absolutely, I have actually started taking pictures and some video of all my adventures. I would be happy to write up an article. Used to do it all the time for my other passion, atv's...

If you have a lot of steering wheel play and the suspension and steering items are in ok shape don't forget the steering column bushing. In having someone move my steering both with truck running and without and me looking I found the following on mine causing issues listed worst to least: tie rod ends column bushing (have the clunk also) intermediate shaft steering box If you move the steering wheel a lot and that movement doesn't seem to make it to the intermediate shaft then the column bushing is your honeysuckle.... mine was horrible and it's a well known issue with a fairly easy fix. Got my new bushing this weekend and hope to get it in next week.

Thank you, no worries here. I have had tons of vehicles over the years and I always treat each one like a project. I do all my own work and like that I know what works and what doesn't and that after I do some work that it's on me. Usually when I have trusted others with repairs it doesn't turn out well. I know many of us on here probably live with Murphy. I find it a challenge and get a lot of satisfaction from fixing issues. I hope you all enjoy your vehicles as much as I do. My my list of to do's is large, but it's always something to look forward to. New turbo, maybe 351ve, looking for good spooling down low for daily driving and towing with an exhaust brake need to do the CCV MoparMan rerouted and clean the radiator and front end. Going to replace heater core and open the hvac box and clean going to refresh the whole ac system, compressor, expansion line, evaporator core, accumulator new control arms to fix caster for lift new steering and front axle refresh quadzilla v2 with iquad new doors, bottoms rusted out, and cab corners. PA Truck special check valve lash and see if it is/was studded front driveshaft rebuild lock up switch step bars, it's a jump to get in possibly a sump, draw straw must have been installed well haven't had any issues at low fuel levels stainless brake lines new shocks and steering stabilizer paint body and linex the lower 1/4 of truck por 15/chassis saver the frame and under carriage add a muffler, sorry too loud, maybe do duals to keep flow high? headlights, prob do mishimotos led all bulbs in truck aftermarket air filter setup, round filter of some sort... check dowel pin and front cover and tappet cover prob missing some but it's fun to dream

Well I've only owned this for a few months now and I have learned a ton about these things and continue to. So I honestly think my truck had a lot of little things that needed attention and some were related, some not, some maybe caused something else that then made something else worse if that makes sense. So I will just brain dump things, not all related, but easier to remember this way. my truck had vibration, torque converter lock up issue, defueled hard while pulling out or passing or just whenever you didn't want it to, but not all the time. Higher than normal EGT's sometimes riding 1200+ for short bursts when just lightly accelerating (lugging yes but not hard or for long periods). I still hear relays like resetting or chattering in the dash near steering column while driving, sounds like when I put in a new tune with Smarty and the computer resets. oil leaks, oil pan and vacuum pump/ps pump seal both replaced. boost leak at cold side intercooler boot, replaced. I think I still have a leak on the intake horn/grid heater area. Or the intake plate gasket. Vss on tranny - replaced after seeing so many talk about it and it was on many 2nd gen Cummins fix it lists. Plus it's cheap. Rear driveshaft UV joint was toast, that was 90% of my vibration. Fuel filter on FASS was damn old when I got it, rusty outside and so I said hey let's change that. Turns out it was crap inside too. Also changed the pre-FASS filter. This steadied my fuel pressure a lot and the defueling issue got way better after this and the UV joint were done. air filter was an oiled aftermarket, stock air filter box but the sides are cut out on the in-side. That thing weighed like 20 lbs and looked like coal dust was dumped in it. EGT improved by ~200 degrees after I replaced with a standard off the shelf filter. Turbo output v-clamp Oring was dry and flattened, cleaned corrosion off and put in new oring. Boost improved by about 3-5 psi. Oil changed, using Rotella T6 and Napa filters. All grounds I can find cleaned and reattached, cleaned battery posts and clamps. All have dielectric grease applied. Also removed and cleaned and reinstalled the pcm connectors. Have a BD noise isolator installed for now, will likely remove. Tested myself and shop tested my alternator. Added a heavy duty (battery cable) ground to alternator bracket. Noise improved. I currently do not have torque converter lock up issue. Added the trans fluid additive everyone recommended for shudder issue. Rerouted the ground away from alternator. Also checked and cleaned and greased all the plastic factory snap together connectors for the ground cables. Specific mention, cleaned the ground strap from PCM to firewall. Inside fan speed resistor pack was bad, only had top 2 speeds and I believe this caused a lot of my electrical noise. Replaced with new. New blend door coupler, got aftermarket metal coupler to replace the plastic. 4x4 vacuum actuator on front axle replaced. New power steering pump, did that when I had the vacuum pump out for the oil seal, the PS pump is cheap and why not when it's out. Also flushed and installed new PS fluid. Tried many different Smarty tunes and revo settings. Currently liking SW5 TM4 T3 D4 Replaced APPS with new Timbo. Had dead pedal when I bought it. I think thats it, might have forgotten something. Not in timeline order. Some done separately some done at the same time.

Where is the one on the rear axle? Same on Auto vs Manual? I replaced the one on my trans, I was having a similar issue. It does it less frequently now but only does it after a long drive and seems to be when it is hot (outside air temp and vehicle temp). Usually if I let off it for a bit or cool down like on a long downhill it seems to come back.

Here is my oil pan story: Just did this about a month ago. I bought the gasket at Napa, make sure you get a one piece to make it easy. I highly recommend Permatex Right Stuff. I’ve used it on over a dozen oil pans and pretty much everything that needs sealed except fuel. Loosen the motor mount bolts, don’t remove them. The top of mount on frame is angled so it will lift. I chained a cherry picker to the motor with the lift eye at top of motor and one on the motor mount on the opposite side. Use something to protect the fuel injection lines. I also removed the starter to make room to use chain on motor mount, I wrapped chain and used hook on the mount that bolts to the motor. Unbolt the fan from the fan clutch so you don’t break the fan shroud. Lift the motor with picker, make sure the mounts move, the first couple times I lifted the whole truck and the motor never budged. I used a bottle jack to lift on the passenger motor mount then with picker down and got that mount to move, then the picker lifted it. I lifted until the motor hit the firewall, my air box lifted free so if yours is tight you might want to remove the hose from the filter to the turbo input. Then I still didn’t have enough clearance, due to the oil pickup tube, so I put a small bottle jack between the steering brace and the bottom passenger corner of motor right beside the oil pan. There is an exposed flat there beside the pan corner. Lifting there lifted just the front of the motor and gave me tons of room to get the pan out. Clean, new pickup tube gasket ( torque to correct specs) and then I put a thin layer of right stuff on the bottom of motor, this held the new gasket in place and makes it much easier. Then I put up pan and hand tightened bolts, let it sit for 30 mins to setup and then I torqued to spec all pan bolts.

Simple question, I'm looking at a Quadzilla. I assume the newest is the V2 with IQuad? And is the BT just Bluetooth option? The info here is amazing, I hope I can add to it at some point. Thanks

I had that leak, my oil pan gasket was flat from being tightened too many times. I had oil everywhere from the wind pushing it. If you need any pointers on the oil pan gasket let me know. It wasn't a bad job, oil pan gasket can be done with motor in the truck easy enough. If you need to do any other work, like on trans, it would be a good reason to yank it. With that said, I would assume you can maybe do the rear main with the transmission pulled, can someone verify?

Yeah definitely send it back, always better. I wouldn't want to chance anything on my accounts. As as for alignment I have tried various shops over the years as I like to see the system in use and the print out of all specs and the actual findings. If you find a shop that will do that and explain things for a good price then it is worth it.

I'll take the whole box and arm then if that's ok. . Let me know if you need to wait or finalize it. We can share contact info.

I am with DieselFuture check the vacuum pump, lay underneath while idling in park, if vacuum pump seal it's against the power steering pump and that could be whining. Usually will start to leak while idling, mine started under load though on a 2 hour trip then started getting worse until it leaked all the time when running. Steady drips while idling.

@Killer223 I'm caught up now, let me know what you are doing with the extra parts including the pitman arm.

If I want to buy the T style for my 01 what year do I need to buy it for? Rock Auto, Amazon?

My truck is a daily driver and I tow a 30' camper and various equipment on my 10k trailer several times a month. I would like to install an engine brake. Looks like Banks, Jacobs, Pacbrake, and BD are the primary options. I have also read that some turbo setups offer some braking ability. I would like to tune and setup for better low end power and towing. I would like better spooling down low also, so a different turbo may be in the works. My exhaust off the turbo looks like it necks to 3" out of the turbo housing and then up to 4", would like to make that one size if possible. So what would you all recommend? I searched this forum and others and most replies were from ~2012 so I thought a new discussion might benefit others also. I would like to know what options are nice, how to engage it, air vs vacuum, manual switches, ecm control, apps signal, anything to consider. I also hear the brakes may help spooling, egt's, and power curve? Any and all info is greatly appreciated. -longjohn

I just put two lower boots on from Silicone Intakes. Ordered the 3.5" x 3" - 45 degree and they went on snug but I used a 90 degree pick to follow it around the horn and then it pushed on with some side to side movement. Time will tell how they hold up.