Curt026

I purchased an ecm from goecm.com a month or so ago. So far all is well but I do not have many miles on it yet. Truck doesn't get driven much. It's to early to tell how it will pan out in the long run, but my experience with them has been very positive compared to horror stories you read from other places. I did find a site where some people had posted bad reviews and crying about stuff, but every one of the complaints was answered by the company rep and then followed up with an endorsing post from the complainant for what it's worth. Hopefully everything works out for you. I know the feeling of what you're going through trying to weed through the endless BS that is auto electronics repair.

What am I missing gents? The pulse is labeled ecm voltage and it does seem to be accurate to when I fluke the battery or the alternator directly. Doesn't seem to be any voltage drop throughout the entire system. Or are you guys just brainstorming the way the old quadzillas worked?

I'm sure poor grounding doesn't help, but I don't honestly know. I believe I also read somewhere that your batteries also filter out ac noise so that is another reason it is imperative to keep your batteries in good health. I'm not the expert on that though. As for the quadzilla, when it freezes the screen will lock up and truck goes to stock power. It remains like that until you turn the key off and restart. I noticed that it also seemed to say 12.9 or 13.0 for ecm voltage when it froze and would happen more frequent and faster on hotter days so I attributed it to a voltage issue. This is unit is from about 6-8 months prior to quadzilla going out of business back in the day. Looking on their website now I think I may send it in for a new board and get the iquad for my phone. Then remove the pulse and put my gauge cluster on the pillar since I plan on putting a new dash in. Darn thing was uncracked until a year or two ago when I installed the gauges up there. It wasn't 3-4 months later and it was cracking. I hate myself for that but what are you going to do

Not just saying it but it was the first thing I intended to do. I had the meter out and reaching down and couldn't pull the darn cap off the back of the alternator to probe it and had barely any light and was worried I'd was going to stick one of the leads in the fan. I know bad excuse but it will be done first thing tomorrow morning. I'm interested in the diodes if they fit the Bosch alternator. I still have my original that im planning on taking into work and restoring. I'm a tech at Eaton and restore low and medium voltage circuit breakers. I'm talking take them down to nothing and make them exactly what they left the assembly line looking like. Really interesting job for guys like us but I just started in June after doing flooring my whole life. So I'm learning the electrical world, but it's a lot to take in all at once. Anyways what I meant to say is restoring this thing at work shouldn't be to bad. At least it will look nice if nothing else haha

Alternator showed back up on Wednesday. Pretty fast turnaround. According to the paper that was in the box it says they replaced the rectifier. No other info on it as far as what the old one or the new one tested at. But they covered it under warranty and shipped it back no charge eventhough it was 6 months out of their warranty timeframe. Unfortunately I was to excited last night and did not test ac voltage again after install which leads me to the next part. ECM came in yesterday. Got everything installed last night and started and ran the truck for an hour with zero hiccups. No codes and I ran through everything I could think of while driving to be sure. Cruise control works. Scanned after I shut it down and no codes were present. Anything else I should check that I'm missing? I plan on taking it for a good long drive tomorrow to be sure all is well and then send in the old one so I can get my core refunded. Time will tell on how it holds up but so far so good from goecm.com Still have the low charging going on for some reason. Was hovering around 13.3 to 13.6 so I'm changing the batteries next. One seemed to be finicky while charging and both had a cell or two with what looked like the plates flaking a bit. Saw some black on the edges of the plates. I'd like to that everyone who helped and maybe this can be a source of info for someone down the road if they can weed through all my long and ridiculous posts! Thanks again

I can't remember if I saw that article or not. I don't remember it, but I wish I did. Place I'm dealing with wanted 600 or 650 to rebuild my old one. They claimed they didn't need my vin number either and the what ifs have been running through my mind ever since then. Hopefully it shows up tomorrow and all is well. I'll be calling up that auto computer exchange if not, but I'm sure at this point it will be one heck of a fight trying to get my money back. I need to stay off the internet for awhile.... To the original poster I think the best way to feel all these companies out is to just arm yourself with as much info as possible about your specific issue and then call around and ask questions. It will be very apparent over the phone who knows what they are talking about and who will tell you anything for your money. I called three companies from Florida and didn't get a great feeling on them so maybe that's why I somehow overlooked this auto computer exchange? Past experience from others in this area is gold. Just be sure the ecm is for sure your problem before buying something because it will be a very sour experience for you and the company if that's not your issue.

Going by your part number it looks like you have an '01. I just went through the same thing for my '02. They quoted me 2500 bucks plus programming and said there was only one left in Memphis at the time. I ended up going the "aftermarket" route and ordered one from goecm.com Not to impressed with them thus far but if it shows up and works and I get my core refunded then I have nothing to complain about. You may want to check out RAEdiesel.com as well. They don't charge a core upfront and seem to be a legit company. One year warranty as opposed to lifetime with the other but what good is a warranty if it fails 6 times or you have to fight them on it. I stressed about the whole thing for a couple weeks and after finally realizing I didn't have much choice in the matter I gave in and finally bought one. I feel your pain in trying to weed through what seems to be an extremely shady industry of car electronics.

Ordered the ecm from goecm.com it was between there and that Rae place someone else mentioned. Couldn't find as much info online about them as I could go ecm but I now I'm sitting here second guessing myself on not buying from them. Goecm didn't need my vin number he said but the order would be processed tomorrownsince I called right at closing and if the tech needed it he would contact me. The lifetime warranty sold me but who knows. Edit: cummins service manager said he would only be able to hook up to the ecm and make sure it communicates. He said it will probably will based on my description and there is no way for him to see if something is wrong until it fails. Unfortunately it happens 10-15 minutes after the truck is fired up for the first time.

Thanks for the link to that other site. Looks like a promising company. My luck id do a p pump swap and then shortly down the road the ecm decides to totally die. Then I'd have to buy one anyways. 2500 bucks is a reman too. Not even new. I have a feeling by the way the guy talked on the phone yesterday that if I go down there and have them test it and it's bad that just maybe they might be able to find a way to get account pricing on it or at least better than 2500. Still though I can't imagine it being a grand or more less than that but who knows.

Very good info. Thank you for the reply. Well everything checks out then. Just very tripped out by the open loop or 75 ohms reading when I switched the multimeter leads around from pin 1 to ground. I just keep trying to find any excuse possible to not have to go through the heartache of getting an ecm. I've shied away from diesel system services because of the no returns and and one year warranty. That and I just can't help but believe I'd be paying more for the exact same thing I'd get elsewhere. If they did it in house then yeah sure. Goecm seems to have the most positive reviews I've seen so far. Lifetime warranty on their units or I can even send mine in for repair for what I'd expect to be considerably less than the 800 they charge for a refurbed unit.

You're telling me...man what I wouldn't give to be able to do that. Decided to run through all the 1689 tests again. Everything checked out as I moved down the list, very little resistance, until I got to the last one. Checking ohms from pin 1 on the vp connector to battery ground I cannot get anything. Just shows open loop. I don't remember having this before when I tested last week. From battery ground to pin 6 I have continuity but nothing from 1 to ground. What am I missing? That's with batteries connected and disconnected. Im pretty certain that's the test I tried right before I disconnected ecm just prior to running through all these tests again and I had a reading of greater than 5 ohms. *plugging the ecm back in to check yeah continuity from ground to pin 6 with batteries hooked up. Nothing with batteries unhooked. Still open loop from vp 1 to ground with ecm unplugged/plugged in and batteries hooked up/unhooked. Does this mean there is a wire broken? Or am I screwing this up Man this is weird. I get open loop with black lead on battery ground and red on pin 1. But I can touch pin 1 to other stuff and get a ring. Switch leads around so black is on pin 1 and red to ground and instantly get a ring and -70 ohms. Wtf? Black on ground and red on pin 6 and it rings instantly. I've moved wires all around trying to find a short or something but it's dead silent. I'll stop posting so much. I'm tired of myself at this point. Hopefully she's back on the road soon

Parts guy from cummins called me back today and informed me that his computer wasn't up to date when he was looking for stock yesterday. (I called another cummins place). Apparently there is an ecm for my truck. 2500 bucks and would need programmed. Ouch. He talked with a tech there that owns a vp truck and I was instructed to call back in the morning to talk with the service guy about scheduling an appointment and they can test my ecm. I'm worried though that since the problem only appears for the first time about 10-15 minutes after the truck is started that it may test good? Is there anyway possible that the pump is going bad and when it stalls the truck some kind of memory or something is still telling the ecm that it's on so therefore the ecm isn't rebooting right away? I am seriously worrying myself almost to the point of insanity over buying an ecm and it being something else. Does the delayed wts light always point to bad ecm no matter the cause of what it took to get it to do that? It is only ever delayed after it shuts off from 1689 code. What a mess If I Hotwire the pump and it still dies then that means it's the pump and if it doesn't then that would be ecm, right?

See I've been away from the forums to long. A lot has been learned since I was last active. Well my I'm sure my neighbors hate me at this point. Got home and started it up on fresh charged batteries and went inside. 12 minutes later I heard it hiccup just like it did when the cam sensor started dying and shortly later went out a couple years ago. Then two minutes after that it died. I was down at the truck again at that point. I cycled the key off and back on and the wts light immediately came on. Ok. So check the codes, 1689. Start it up and a couple minutes later it died again. Cycled the key and nothing. Did it two more times and nothing. Let it sit the third time with key on for about 20 seconds still nothing. Read the codes, 1689 again. Cycled the key and it started just like it should and then died again about a minute later. It's driving me mad. I'd rather replace the pump or throw a new cam sensor at it but the delayed wts is what is telling all though I believe. But to be clear I've never cycled the key on and sat there long enough for the wts light to kick on. Idk if it ever would. I just cycle the key back off and on again and it either works or it doesn't. Man I really don't want to buy an ecm for this thing.....

You may want to just pull out the map sensor and inspect it. I'm sure it's probably dirty if it's never been cleaned and the comp box has been on for awhile. Or at worst replace it which used to be between 80-100 bucks I believe but that was a few years ago. A co worker of mine did find a spot on the board where there appears to be a missing diode but I can't tell if there was ever meant to be one there or not. In the second picture at the top middle/left there is a string of 7 or 8 small diodes. Third one from the left is missing. Unfortunately I haven't been home yet so I can't confirm the problem has been fixed just yet. I am nervous and excited at the same time. Still cannot believe I went through all of this without pulling the box first. I knew better and for some reason I was thinking I did at the time. What an adventure this has been.

The thing is this whole time I kept thinking that pulling the quad off was one of the first things I did. But the more I think about it I don't believe I actuwlly did. I planned on it and then without thinking I was excited to try it after putting on the new ground cables that I plugged everything back in and started it up. I brought the quad with me to work so I'm going to open it up if it isn't to hard and have a look This is a 4K adrenaline. Yeah I know.... I thought I had different plans for the truck and I had a regular adrenaline fry itself on me under warranty. So they were kind enough to send me back a 4K module instead of a regular one. Tuned around it's issues the best I could and didn't have any problems daily driving it because I pretty much drive like a grandpa. I'll be darned if I see anything obviously wrong with it though. Then again I don't exactly know what I'm looking for either besides burned components.