Natertot01

@Yankneck696 Are you still on the forums at all?

So the truck has been sitting for a month or so and the batte ries went dead. I unplugged the quad and jumped it and got it running. When I shut the truck off and plugged the quad back in it clicked the power on and off 3 times and then the truck stayed on. When I then started the truck it loped and popped so bad it almost shut off so I killed the truck and not 2 seconds later the dash flashed 3 times an d the quad turned the truck back on. I am now trying to connect it to a computer to see if I can update it but neither of the 2 computers I o wn (which worked before) even recognize the quad. I opened it and there is nothing broken or burnt insi de. Have you ever encountered something like this? Thank you

Just get a billet input and call it a day lol. What were you doing to break it?

It's been a little while, has anyone given this a shot yet? I'm down right now due to snapping my front yoke

That is not torque management

I am primarily interested in boosted launches. However I can light the tires just by flooring it vs it bucking like there was no tomorrow before hand. So yes it does fuel harder off the line, none of the fuel is cut like it was previously.

Ah, I was looking at a different part of the wiring diagram and realized my mistake, I did not know those didn't connect that way to ground, the +12v going into the switch must be for the reverse lights . I thought it connected to both. Thank you for clearing that up, I was definitely going to check with a meter before installing everything lol. Ya looking at the plug I can see I grounded it through the lights ??? @IBMobile

So has anyone else given this a shot yet? I am going to install a more permanent setup tonight. Running it to ground would probably be a bad idea given that the wire is connected to battery positive when the switch is on lol.

Yes it will on its own, I had ZERO problems with the trans shifting on its own, going in and out of lockup (ON ITS OWN), everything worked perfect AND mine was hardwired on the whole time.

You do not need a resistor, it throws the code after about a half hour or so. you really only need to eliminate TM for a minute or less at a time so the code will never throw. Like I said before mine was hardwired on and a switch would eliminate this problem. And yes it still goes through all the gears like normal, nothing different.

It was the middle pin and the top pin when plugged in. My wires were a little dirty so it was hard to tell (and its currently 1 am here), but the middle one did appear to be BK/WT. The vehicle was able to be started in any gear when the wire was jumped. After about a half hour of being hardwired it even threw a p1899 ( "Park/Neutral switch stuck in park or gear"). so if it was on a switch this problem would not arise.

Relatively easy fix I've been working on. All you need is an Arduino and a couple toggles to choose ring gear size. Command after x amount of pulses (it's a sin wave), cut signal from rear end, inject the correct sin wave from the Arduino, then once you slow down allow the signal to pass through again. It'll be like a $10 device, I just need a portable ociliscope to test the signal at 95mph. Hell I could even add a pot onto the board and allow you to adjust for tire size to. It may be $20 at max after boards are made

@mopar1973man Best part of this way is you get to keep all your gauges and possibly no CEL once I figure out the bugs.

@kzimmer I think it was due to the amount of driving I was doing. It obviously wont throw a MIL at idle for 3 hours straight so i believe it was the combo of high oss speed (like 70 mph lol) and the neutral being 'on'. The p1899 is literally a code for the malfunction of that switch. I did happen to get one other code which was p0500 which is a vehicle speed sensor malfunction. Either i accelerated so quickly it got pissed off or its a result of the p1899 code. Both codes showed up at the same time. I have not seen any down side to having it wired on in all my testing tonight (besides lack of cruise but if its on a switch that shouldn't matter). """"" Re reading your post it did not throw either of the codes till it came disconnected from the best of my knowledge, ill make a more permanent setup and test it tomorrow and get back to you""""""""

@kzimmer It will be as simple as getting a solid core wire and connecting the middle and top pin, I used too small of a wire and it came disconnected and i got confused for a second why it stopped working