Natertot01

@Yankneck696 Are you still on the forums at all?

So the truck has been sitting for a month or so and the batte ries went dead. I unplugged the quad and jumped it and got it running. When I shut the truck off and plugged the quad back in it clicked the power on and off 3 times and then the truck stayed on. When I then started the truck it loped and popped so bad it almost shut off so I killed the truck and not 2 seconds later the dash flashed 3 times an d the quad turned the truck back on. I am now trying to connect it to a computer to see if I can update it but neither of the 2 computers I o wn (which worked before) even recognize the quad. I opened it and there is nothing broken or burnt insi de. Have you ever encountered something like this? Thank you

Just get a billet input and call it a day lol. What were you doing to break it?

It's been a little while, has anyone given this a shot yet? I'm down right now due to snapping my front yoke

That is not torque management

I am primarily interested in boosted launches. However I can light the tires just by flooring it vs it bucking like there was no tomorrow before hand. So yes it does fuel harder off the line, none of the fuel is cut like it was previously.

Ah, I was looking at a different part of the wiring diagram and realized my mistake, I did not know those didn't connect that way to ground, the +12v going into the switch must be for the reverse lights . I thought it connected to both. Thank you for clearing that up, I was definitely going to check with a meter before installing everything lol. Ya looking at the plug I can see I grounded it through the lights ??? @IBMobile

So has anyone else given this a shot yet? I am going to install a more permanent setup tonight. Running it to ground would probably be a bad idea given that the wire is connected to battery positive when the switch is on lol.

Yes it will on its own, I had ZERO problems with the trans shifting on its own, going in and out of lockup (ON ITS OWN), everything worked perfect AND mine was hardwired on the whole time.

You do not need a resistor, it throws the code after about a half hour or so. you really only need to eliminate TM for a minute or less at a time so the code will never throw. Like I said before mine was hardwired on and a switch would eliminate this problem. And yes it still goes through all the gears like normal, nothing different.

It was the middle pin and the top pin when plugged in. My wires were a little dirty so it was hard to tell (and its currently 1 am here), but the middle one did appear to be BK/WT. The vehicle was able to be started in any gear when the wire was jumped. After about a half hour of being hardwired it even threw a p1899 ( "Park/Neutral switch stuck in park or gear"). so if it was on a switch this problem would not arise.

Relatively easy fix I've been working on. All you need is an Arduino and a couple toggles to choose ring gear size. Command after x amount of pulses (it's a sin wave), cut signal from rear end, inject the correct sin wave from the Arduino, then once you slow down allow the signal to pass through again. It'll be like a $10 device, I just need a portable ociliscope to test the signal at 95mph. Hell I could even add a pot onto the board and allow you to adjust for tire size to. It may be $20 at max after boards are made

@mopar1973man Best part of this way is you get to keep all your gauges and possibly no CEL once I figure out the bugs.

@kzimmer I think it was due to the amount of driving I was doing. It obviously wont throw a MIL at idle for 3 hours straight so i believe it was the combo of high oss speed (like 70 mph lol) and the neutral being 'on'. The p1899 is literally a code for the malfunction of that switch. I did happen to get one other code which was p0500 which is a vehicle speed sensor malfunction. Either i accelerated so quickly it got pissed off or its a result of the p1899 code. Both codes showed up at the same time. I have not seen any down side to having it wired on in all my testing tonight (besides lack of cruise but if its on a switch that shouldn't matter). """"" Re reading your post it did not throw either of the codes till it came disconnected from the best of my knowledge, ill make a more permanent setup and test it tomorrow and get back to you""""""""

@kzimmer It will be as simple as getting a solid core wire and connecting the middle and top pin, I used too small of a wire and it came disconnected and i got confused for a second why it stopped working

@Me78569 Yes mine is the 3 wire switch

@Me78569 I can tell you for 100% fact it is not considered. I spun all 4 on the wet pavement, let at about 25-30 psi of boost and 2200 ish rpm when i was on the road. Went a little higher in the dirt. I was honestly amazed at how simple the solution was.

Well I have finally came up with a solution for the dreaded torque management that has plagued us 2nd gen owners for decades, and best of all its free. It all happened by accident actually. I opened up my trans due to some funny shifting issues and found every screen inside it was full of metal shavings. Which obviously meant that they got past the filter but more on this later. I cleaned all the solenoids and sensors of the metal and the little screens that protected them along with installing a new filter and fluid. Everything was good for about 2 weeks then all of a sudden after i left a drive thu i lost all forward gears. I messed around with it for a little while (like 4 hours) trying to figure out what happened. If I let the truck sit for a minute or 5 off i would get line pressure and could move the truck about 200 ft before losing all gears again. However when i would lose all forward gears and the truck was stationary i would only be able to rev the truck to 2000 rpm (basically felt as if it was in neutral) but if it was in park or neutral i could go balls to the wall 3700. So after quite a while a friend towed me home and i couldn't find anything on what my problem was. There were only about 5 forums were people had the exact same symptoms. One of them suggested it was a clogged filter and everything settled back into the pan after being off for a few minutes. So $6 later in a new filter and some new fluid i had laying around it was once again going better than the day i bought the truck. This is when i began thinking of the weird rev to 2k in drive but 3700 in N or P. I also noticed when trying to do a burnout or 4x4 launch in the past 2 years of owning the truck i could only build up to 2000 rpm before it started cutting fuel, then upon launch it would start bucking (I'm sure we've all been there) then pull like a mule. This led me to my idea, I crawled under the truck today and pulled off the connector to the neutral/reverse switch and found out which pin is for the neutral safety switch (its the top 2 pins). I then shorted the 2 wires together with a paperclip and went for a test drive. The truck went through the gears no problem 1-2-3-3lock-4-4lock as it would normally at all throttle positions, the lock-up switch still performed as it did before. I went into an abandoned dirt parking lot, put it in 4x4, and began to mash the brake and accelerator. The truck very quickly got to about 2500 rpm and about 30-35 lbs of boost. At this moment i knew it had worked. I built boost again and launched the truck, I had full fuel off the line with no bucking whatsoever, next I did a burnout with the same result. The only problem i ended up having is after about 20-30 minutes the truck threw a p1899 code for the switch being shorted which defaulted the computer and turned TM back on. However if you put it on a toggle switch you would be able to turn off TM at any time, and shut it back off before the computer knows while retaining all your gauges vs other options out on the market. Also if the neutral switch is "On" you will not be able to use cruise control so a switch would be the best option. I still have some more testing to do but this fix has worked every time I have tried it so far. This was my experience with my own experiment on my truck, if you would like to attempt this you do so at your own risk. It fuels fast and it fuels hard. If you have any questions feel free to ask