skyhigh4by

My truck is a 98 ext cab, auto, SLT trim so it has power locks and I think at one time had a FOB but I don’t have it. The remote start is ProStart brand. I can take a pic of the schematic with my phone but I’m not sure how to upload it to this post from my phone.

Has anyone here installed on before? The one I got came with a Wiring schematic but beyond that there’s no more installation instructions.

Awesome thanks guys

I understand but what I want to avoid is having to train anyone that drives my truck how and when to lock the torque converter.

It doesn’t seem like this has an option to function like it came from the factory? I don’t want to have try to teach every person that drives the truck how to operate the lockup.

I’m thinking I’d like a lockup switch but I also want the option of having fully factory operation for when my wife or some other unsuspecting person drives my truck. I’m thinking factory/unlocked/locked. Is it possible? How would one go about wiring that up? Reason I want a switch is my triple disk converter seems to lockup to early for my engine. (All stock engine/tuning with exception to trans goodies from dynamic and the triple disk TC) It severely barks the turbo sometimes if I’m into the throttle enough or if I’m really light on the pedal it will actually lock and then immediately unlock almost as if it quickly realizes it’s too soon. This happens around 43-45mph. There is zero ac noise and I’ve replaced both speed sensors with no resolution.

No idea what I would use for timing yet. I just found the TST for sale local to me but the guy doesn’t know how much he wants for it and I wanted to figure out if it would work for me or not before I even bothered offering anything. If it’s not going to be budget enough once I find a timing box too then I will just continue waiting to get a quadzilla. What are are the best and/or cheapest options for timing?

Maybe a stupid question but I’m having trouble finding non-conflicting information. I know the PowerMax is a fuel only box. I am trying to figure out if a box for an 01-02 can work on a 98-00 truck. I know the MAP sensors are different (plug and voltage values). I have read some info saying that unlike EDGE the PowerMax box will work on all years with a MAP adapter harness. Can anyone here confirm or deny this information? I have tried to contact TST but they are closed until Monday.

A quad is on my list of things to buy but I’m not that far down the list yet. My truck needs new injectors sooner than later though. I would like to go with something in the 7x.009 range(100hp) Can I get away with running the bigger injectors before installing a tuner? What might it run like? I imagine they would greatly benefit from the timing adjustment that comes from a tuner but would it still be streetable for the time being?

Okay thanks. I get what your trying to say about the compressor. I’ll start with the map sensor and go from there. No the edge is no longer on the truck. It started working intermittently and I ended up throwing it in the trash. With what I know now it could have likely been the map sensor that was the problem and not the edge. I wanted to get a quad anyways but not until I’ve got the truck running right in stock form. No boost gauge and I would bet the adjustment screw is missing from the elbow. It looks like there could have been threads in there but they’re all buggered up. I cant figure out whether or not the wastegate actuator should leak past the diaphragm or not. I put 25psi into the boost hose and the air just leaks through and out past the rod and the rod doesn’t move. I don’t think that’s supposed to happen??

So what your saying is a small leak isn’t going to make much difference? The leak in the wastegate actuator bleeds off pressure almost as fast as my compressor can get air in. I assume it’s not supposed to do that? It’s the only leak left as far as I can tell. Also the boost elbow I have is from an edge ez and it just has a hole right in the side that leaks air out is that supposed to be there? I looked through old parts but couldn’t find the original elbow.

Thank you. Guess I’m heading to the parts store for a MAP and a wastegate actuator. It never seems to end.

Got 4.94v key on/engine off and engine running

To confirm I would be looking for 5v on the orange wire-pin A yea? Is there an acceptable range or just a constant 5v? I have an otc genysys. I have managed to seal the boots up pretty good which made a huge difference when giving air from the compressor but I can hear air leaking somewhere but can’t pinpoint it. Kind of seems like the wastegate leaking or somewhere else right on the turbo itself. EDIT the leak is coming out of the wastegate diaphragm/actuator.

No I didn’t drive. I just had a paperclip probe stuck in the plug and touched it will the voltmeter. I will have to make up something to tap in more permanently to drive and monitor. Or or could I not just use a scan tool to see map output voltage or is that not accurate? Also so I just finally got around to testing for boost leaks and I found leaks at every clamp. With my compressor going I couldnt even seem to build more than a few psi it all just leaked out. It doesn’t really make sense to me that was going on and I was still getting an overboost code? I am just going through all the connections now to stop the leaks

I finally got a chance to put a voltmeter on the map sensor. I got 0.49v from pin c at idle. I’ve never noticed a p0237 code before when I’ve scanned only ever seen p0234??

Okay I’m not sure I fully understand what putting in a lockup switch will do. I understand how it works and why to put it in but I need to know exactly what changes when it comes to drivability. I guess what what I would like is a 3 way lockup switch that 1. Has completely stock lockup function 2. Can lock/unlock the t/c on demand 3. Can just prevent lockup from happening until commanded by the switch and then can unlock via brake pedal. Is that hat how they all work? Or am I asking for something that doesn’t exist. Ultimately I want to keep it as stock as possible for people like my wife or whoever may use my truck but I also want to be able to delay lockup until I command it or completely block it’s ability to lockup with the flick of a switch because there are many scenarios that I find the t/c wants to lock to early which causes luging, bucking, and difficulty pulling some hills.

Generally I completely agree about fixing something to the way it was intended from the factory but the problem I’ve found through research about this is that it was common to be a problem right from the get go due to the poor design. I also feel that dodge engineers couldn’t design a half decent suspension/steering system to save their lives. All of the the parts in my steering system are new and it still does this to a minor degree. The particular video posted above is a VERY severe example of what was going on with my truck and I’m sure to be that bad some parts are in fact worn out, improperly installed, or have some other factor contributing to the problem.

I have a hand held 2 way radio for the local logging roads and I was using it today and noticed whenever I would key the mic to talk my oil pressure gauge would drop right off and the “check gauges” alarm and light would come on. As soon as I would let off the mic the gauge would go back up to normal. Really had me confused/nervous the first couple times it happened before I put the 2 together. so what could be causing this to happen and why?

Okay thanks. I have a scan gauge I could hook up and an OTC genesys I can watch live data with so I’ll check into that.

I don’t have a boost gauge. It’s one of many many things on the to do list. I very rarely go beyond 3/4 throttle. The low power problem feels like it’s a somewhat recent thing I don’t remember it being so gutless and it almost feels as if it’s slowly getting worse. The VP has maybe 20k miles. Truck has under 120k miles. I guess i will will try to see if the wastegate is stuck. The boost elbow isn’t adjustable and I don’t think I have the stock piece around.

Yes I have. Maybe I’m interpreting it wrong but I don’t get how that proves whether the MAP is good or not. Even with a stuck wastegate and totally stock fueling shouldn’t it not exceed boost limits? That article says to replace the wastegate and mentions nothing of the MAP sensor itself needing replacement. Is it just a part that never fails and if it had codes it’s pointing towards other parts being the cause?

Okay I’m somewhat happy to hear that. Is there a way I can definitively condemn the MAP or should I just go ahead and replace it?

Can a failed or failing MAP sensor cause my truck to be very sluggish down low and continuously the P0234 code? I once upon a time had an edge ez but it’s gone now. The boost elbow that came with it is still installed though. I have a fass lift pump and a FP gauge. Otherwise all stock. Truck feels like a total pig off the line and doesn’t feel like it starts making any power until 1800 rpm or so. Also has trouble holding highway speed in OD on any hills even empty.

UPDATE I made a spacer to go between the TRE and knuckles out of poly bushings I had lying around. They look very similar to what is being sold as “the cure”. I removed the grease boots and put the spacers in place of the boots. I only have very limited testing but so far I’m very impressed. The steering feels tighter and much more responsive to wheel input. I will try to update again with some more long term results. I’m not sure how long the poly will last in there but I guess we will find out.