skyhigh4by

Okay I understand that after a certain amount of rotational speed/force things will distort. At what point does it become an issue for us especially with the low rotational speed of a Diesel engine? Is it the force applied on it or is it the speed at which it’s spinning or is it increased line pressures? Obviously engineers feel that a billet converter is not necessary in an engines stock form.. is a billet TC a sales gimmick up until a certain point and does anyone know what that point is?

What is the benefit of a torque converter having a billet front cover or not? Im not questioning the internals of the TC as I understand what bigger/better components within the TC do but I’m just talking about the billet cover itself...

P0713 (trans temp sensor high) P1763 (governor pressure sensor high) P0753 (overdrive solenoid circuit) P0753A (shift solenoid A electrical) I dont know what to make of these codes. Are they painting some sort of picture I can’t see? It feels like it’s shifting alright... I am just about to put a new TC and transgo kit in the valve body

I’ve actually spoken to Dynamic over message as well as a couple others and they have all said most likely the TC is the culprit. Mostly I’m just trying to confirm it for myself before I pull the transmission out and spend the money on a TC

Looks like there’s 3 plugs on my trans. One I assume is the speed sensor which is near the back. Then there is the big sorta round plug up high pointing down and then there is one on an angle just above the pan. What is that one just above the pan? I’m dealing with my TC not u locking when it should. I unplugged the big round plug and it was still locked and stalled the engine. I unplugged the lower one above the pan and the motor wouldn’t even turn over. There’s 3 wires in that plug, one of them is very twisted up and has a bare spot.

Just thought I would add to this to say I just tested the lift pump over pressure situation. I have a fairly new stock lift pump btw. Got truck good and hot then shut it down. Result long cranking, sputtering, no start. I unplugged the lift pump and it immediately flashed right up. I then tried this over several times having no start unless lift pump unplugged. I have a fass comig and will be wiring up a delay relay when I install it along with a fuel pressure gauge.

Not sure it would help you or not but I’ve had luck cracking injectors when mine has hot start troubles. Even though I don’t think there’s air in the system

It’s probably not possible for a new stock lift pump to create the same over pressure hard starts??

Trying to compare between an edge EZ, a smarty s03, and a quad but I’m not sure about it cause the guy doesn’t know what model it is because it came in a parts truck and he can’t find any switch in the cab. The box itself is sort of an odd shape but I don’t really know much about quad products to figure out what it is but based on the pics of the wiring he sent me I’m guessing it’s an xtz. Old model maybe?? Anyways truck will be a daily driver mostly stock with 50-75hp injectors and typical intake/exhaust mods at most. Just trying to figure out which one would best suit me. Leaning towards smarty but only because of the high idle..

Awesome thank you

I’ve searched and read a whole bunch of threads about swapping an HO(028) pump in place of an SO(027) pump the mixed answeres really leave a guy confused. So so I don’t care about high horsepower capabilities or anything like that I’m just interested in daily drivability with at most a small tune and some 50-75hp injectors but currently bone stock. My SO pump is dead, I have a known working HO pump. What can I expect by swapping the HO in place of the SO pump. Many say it works just fine and many others say it can not be done..

Goes to show how much I know about this system I wasn’t even aware there were 2 grids. Would running only 1 grid instead of both in near or just below freezing temps be sufficient enough to get a easier/cleaner startup? Is disconnecting only 1 of the grids even possible? A 90A draw vs a 190A draw seems like it would make a big difference

So there must be a way to monitor the draw from an original oem grid heater and then compare to a fresh one..? Obviously deterioration of connections and grounds throughout the entire system only amplified the problem

I’m in the same boat as you on that I think. Now I wonder if just finding a Bosch replacement, replace and/or clean all the grounds and reducing electrical load at idle/install high idle.

Actually got .09 - .12 with a better ground point and that was with grid heater disconnected, hvac off, radio off, lights off, basically anything I could turn off was. I think im going to try to find a new Bosch unit the one in there now is denso and then I’ll go through all the grounds and battery cables cleaning everything up. Could this much ac leakage over a prolonged period be a cause of apps, vp44 codes, and dead pedal problems as well as other various electrical quirks.

I think a charging system overhaul is also in order for me before I can carry on trying to diagnose any other problems the truck has. I actually just watched mopar1973mans video on ac testing and then went and did it again myself this time using the passenger side negative terminal for my ground instead of and exhaust manifold bolt like before. This time it was bouncing from .09v all the way up to .12v up and down it never settled out any place in particular. This alternator is only about 6 months old and 2 new interstate batteries went in at the same time. The alt charges over 14dcv but clearly has WAY to much ac leakage. It looks like a reman denso unit and it likely had too much acv right out of the box and has only gotten worse since.

This thread has kinda taken off and gone above me but I don’t really want to start another on so... I just tested my alternator. Black lead on an engine ground, Red lead on the alternator field post. I got a reading of .08 - .09 acv. Did I I do that right? A lot of this technical electrical stuff is new to me. Before ever actually testing this alternator I disconnected it and pulled it fuse just to see if my hunting problem went away and it proved that the alt was causing many problems..

I’ve been trying to search without luck but is a Bosch alternator actually a different design than the denso unit? I imagine most commonly reman units are denso? What’s the difference between the two?

So with all that said. Where do we find such an alternator that is up to the task

Sorry I’m a little confused. Your saying to stay away from Nippon Denso AND all those other brands or those other brands are okay to use?? I didn’t think there was any alternative besides the standard denso/clones..

It has factory fuel filter canister. I was told that the lift pump and filter were changed very shortly before I got it. It looks to be a carter replacement pump. Ill take a look for some kind of test port on the canister

I assume you mean fuel pressure before the IP? I am quite capable of checking it but Im not familiar with the cummins fuel system at all. Where and how would I check it, and what pressures should I hope to see?

Ive been chasing down problems with this new to me 98 24v and just got a pretty big indicator I think. First I diagnosed alternator AC problems causing TC lock/unlock issues, and then narrowed down my TC not unlocking to a couple things but now I was just out for a drive, stopped at a buddies house and we figured it was idling a little high 900rpm(ish) and the CEL kicked on while I was there. I was going to try an APPS reset when I got home but on my way home cruising down the highway my throttle pedal went dead and I had to be towed home. Pulled the codes and got P0121, P0122, P0216, P0234, and of course a P1693 to go with it all. I know what the definition of each code is but what is the actual underlying message here? Truck has 100k miles and is all original besides alternator and lift pump. Generally the truck drives fine and seems like it runs pretty good but sometimes it has been hard starting lately and I think Ive notice very brief dead pedal a couple times before. Before I just got buy an IP is there anything else I should be checking?

This truck is new to me I haven’t even been able to put it in to service just a couple little drives to try to diagnose problems. Winter temperatures around here generally stay above freezing except for maybe a couple cold snaps that are just below freezing. I’m thinking of just disconnecting the grid heater except for the odd cold snap I get here. Good idea or not??

The truck I just got is on its 3rd alternator in a couple years according to previous owner, all have had diode failures causing the TC lock/unlock condition. Assuming that a quality high amp alternator is going to last longer than a over the counter replacement unit.. I was looking at nations alternators but the one for the 24v diesel looks to have a 2 pin plug on the back of it but mine has 2 ring terminal studs. Im new to dodge and cummins. What am I missing here? Does the 98 24v have one off parts or something??