RipnRam99

I have no idea what options those would be... Like I said... The only thing I see that is different is the O/D on-off button... It's not marked on the shifter, and it does nothing when I push the button... The donor trucks is marked, and it down shifts to 3rd when you push it, and the dash has a O/D off light ... Ever heard of an auto truck not having the O/D off option?

I've never heard that one before.... I usually use permatex terminal dressing. That redish spray on stuff... Most of the problem really was from the worn out cable ends... I tried to order all new cables from Napa, but they didn't even have half of them... Found a place online that had a complete set, spacifically for 2nd gen dodge diesel. But they were wildly expensive... Like $400! I can't remember where I saw them, but that was pretty much the only place I found all of the cables in one place.

What options should I pay attention to? So far, the only difference I see is the donor truck has posi rear axle, and the new truck doesn't... Also little things like my doors don't auto lock at 10mph, and the O/D on-off button on the end of the shifter doesn't do anything. No light on the dash either. Even when I first turn the key to the on position... Other than that, everything is the same, as far as I can tell... Someone deleted badges on new truck. Old truck was an SLT.

It's a fix to try to eliminate unwanted signal noise, due to improper grounding. The excessive noise screws with the signals being passed between the PCM/ECM and various sensors. This causes a variety of issues... Most notably are torque converter lock up issues with auto trans trucks.... Atleast, that's the reason I've been following this... I have a ridiculously expensive trans made of unubtanium, with unicorn blood for fluid (LOL!) And, if my battery terminals aren't clean as a whistle, it can't decide wheather to be in 3rd gear or overdrive at speeds between 40-50 mph... It's annoying as hell, when it happens... This is supposed to fix that.

Watching this too... Can someone point me to a thread that shows how to inspect for turbo wear? Maybe a how to for rebuild? Thanks!

I have been having some similar issues with power/boost/milage... Lots of good information here! One thing that I was not aware of is that the ECM and PCM must be matched to the options in the truck... As I am just about a day or two from beginning to tear down the truck I wrecked, to pull out modified motor/trans, and replace stock drive train in the newer (to me, both 1999s) truck... I am wondering if I should swap ECM & PCM as well? Would I need to use my old instrument cluster as well? I think they are linked. Sorry if I'm side tracking this thread a little. I am just trying to get a big picture game plan together, and organize this potential fiasco as best I can.

I was having the same problem following along... I read it 3 times, and I just about 99% sure you've got it right... I believe he is also saying to replace the positive cable, leading from the driver side battery to the passenger side battery, with a larger higher grade cable as well.... Am I right guys?

So.... That was productive... You... Are... An... *******... I don't like the rims either.... You should see it on stock wheels... Looks even goofier... What part of... I bought it lifted like that... And, I am trying to make the best of it... Don't you get? That's why I'm Fuggin here!!!

My son and I came to the conclusion, last night, that we don't like this truck.. He hates the lift, and the big chrome 20" wheels.... He loved the silver truck.... He was mad as FUUUCK at me when I smooshed it on our tree.... He hasn't liked this new truck, since day 1... It's a good truck, it's just not our truck... I have already purchased a pile of parts for this truck... We are going to install them... Tail lights, fender flares, all aluminum 4 core radiator, sweet blue silicone hoses... Fix the bi-amped stereo (bad RCA line from head to amps).... And then.... This truck gets to be someone else's dream... See ya!!! I think... I need... A 3500 dually.... Yes I do!

I figured out how to transfer pics from phone to PC via Bluetooth... Lets see how this goes. 45 minutes later..... I am having I am having dial-up flashbacks from 1998 .... That was like watching paint dry....

First 2 pics : Front suspension, white truck... This is what makes me think 6" lift. 3rd pic : White truck rear. 4th & 5th pics: Silver truck, stock rear suspension... There are definitely different heavier springs on this truck. Wish I had looked closer to the little differences between these two trucks, before I bought the white one... I did get a pretty killer deal on it though.... I REALLY MISS MY OLD TRUCK!!! Note: I am having issues loading photos from my phone right now... I think every kid in town is online. That only took 10 min to upload... Mountain life...

Hey Guys... Thanks for all of the responses... I didnt see them all on my phone for some reason. The snow has melted off here, and I'm gonna take some pics of both trucks rear spring setups when I go. I will also take some pics of the front on my White truck. I am very sure this isnt a "leveling kit". It may be a 4" lift, instead of 6" though. Thanks for all the help guys!

Thanks for all the great advice... The "quote" feature is screwing up on my phone, so bare with me here.... The K&N is just what happens to be on the new truck... I will be going with my AFE setup. I love the air flow design, and huge filter. I haven't really filled out my signature yet, because I am going to tear apart both trucks, and do one build all at once... Sell the rest.... It's actually kind of nice to have 2 of everything to chose from, or sell of for new parts... Or trade for parts... I am going to be pulling the old truck, that I smooshed up, into the shop sometime this week, and beginning total tear down... I think I will have a much better idea of what I've got to work with when I at least get the motor and trans out. Ias far as the quadzilla goes, I've heard of them, but never seen one. Both trucks have the pretty simple to use BD edge boxes... But is suppose I could be that old dog who learns new tricks! What I am wondering about is... When does it make good sense to upgrade the intercooler, and Turbo? My trans is built for 1000 hp (no joke), because I had intended to keep modifying, but never found the time... Now, it makes sense, since I'm going to be selling an entire drivetrain, axles, computers, wiring hranesses, body parts, etc... You get the idea. I can probably dump another $5-7k into it... I just got a new, all aluminum 4 core radiator that would look pretty sick paired up with the all aluminum AFE intercooler! We love it when they're pretty where it counts!

Ok... Yeah, we are on the same page... Maybe the 99's have a more arced spring, and less block? It's hard to tell from year to year... I can take a pic of the silver truck spring and block later, and compare the two... I went back and forth between them with a friend one day a while back... We both thought the springs looked a little different between them, but that block, with the snubber bump perch, we're the same... They just stuffed a big tall block between the axle and stock block.

Ok... What kind of waste gate did you use? I see a few different ways when I shop around... Some look like a kit... Others are the whole thing, Like the Banks big head (I think that's what it's called ) The more I look at this... The more I think I should just swap engine and trans... My set up in the silver truck worked really well together... Plus, I can just sell the motor and trans that I pull out, and buy a better turbo, and maybe a performance intercooler.... I think that would take me to where I'd like to be with performance and drivability... The only thing I wanted for, was to have to turbo spool up a lot quicker, and possibly be able to dial up my comp box one more notch, and not have a bunch of black smoke.... I do not "roll coal"... I think it stupid.

Ah... Well, an ex-employee just recently stole my Fluke meter, so I'm still screwed till I Dole out for a new one. So... If, when I start the truck, and it takes several seconds for the amps to come up (sometimes it trips the check guages light for a second) ... And.. if when it's idling, or driving at low speed (10-15 mph on the dirt road) and my guage goes up and down, and the head lights dim and get bright over and over again... Is that normal? Because my old truck has been doing that ever since I can remember... The new truck sort of does that too, bit I don't notice the head lights, I think because they are LED...

Small block, as in 360 v8? I meant... On the white truck, there is a thinner block stacked on top of the tall block... And, the thinner block is the same as the one on my silver truck. I'd rather have a taller spring, and less blocks.

These are the things I am trying to piece together... Like I said, I didn't do the work on my original truck... All I've ever really done was change the VP-44 and add an Air dog lift pump, at about 100k miles... Change the oil, and clean the air filter... I guess that's what I payed extra for! LOL! ... I keep thinking he said he changed a spring in the waste gate, but I'm not 100% on that one.

I have no idea how to do that... I am sure I don't have the tool... I was interested in the thread about upgraded alternator though... I have a bi-amped stereo, and plan to add extra lights in the future. Thanks for letting me know though. It seems I might need to find a good electrical shop to have them test that.

I need the ground clearance... I go up some pretty gnarly "driveways", and do a lot of offroad mud, rocks, and canyon sized ruts, just getting around on my own land... We all do. It's just the way of it.... But, even when I had a house in a paved street, hauling *** around endless corners eats front tires, and track bars... It's probably something to do with driving style as well.

I haven't looked into traction bars yet. This truck doesn't have enough power right now to need them.... The motor in the other truck might just find it's way into this one... That's the one with 400hp. Yes, both trucks are 4x4... You can't tell?

I have a little bit of input on this... I was on my 3rd track bar at 160k on my stock height 99, with 285/70-16 tires.... I have a lot of friends with Dodges around here, and we all go through track bars... I don't know what the general terrain is like where most of you are, but we are in the mountains, and every where we go is a twisty road, throwing that big heavy Cummins around left and right all the time definitely works that track bar to death... Moog bars last longer, that's just the way it is. Probably superior materials. Heim joints are the only real solution, but you gotta grass the crap out of them regularly, or the dirt and much chews them up pretty fast too. So, I believe the amount of driving on straight roads, as opposed to our constant switch backs, and curves, is probably the biggest difference in longevity. I am about to put an adjustable, with hiem joints on my lifted 99 because it's worn, and the front axle sits about an inch farther out on the drivers side... I didn't lift this truck, just trying to sort it out... BTW... I'm 47, and I still rail the corners like it's a rally race... I'll never grow up!

When I look between both of my 99's, they have the same small block, with the snubber catch. The white 99 has the big block in addition... Also, in that pick, there are 5 wheels and tires in the bed, plus the headache rack it sort of heavy too. It's sagging a little from empty. But, I have digressed... I'd like to ditch this blocks for re-arced springs... I just don't like the idea of 400hp/800ftlb going through that axle, and having all that leverage on the springs... Seems it would get a lot of spring wrap. Also, the 20" wheels kind of throw off the visual as well... Those are 35"or36" tires... I forgot the actual size...

Ok... Now I'm confused again... So, if I buy new 100hp injectors, they already have big nozzles on them, and the pop off pressure is already set at the factory? If I buy nozzles, then I am having those installed on my existing injectors? And I have to have them set up on some sort of flow bench at an injection shop? That's why the nozzles are cheaper than the injectors? I also have another related question... When you install bigger injectors, does that cause the turbo to increase boost PSI? Or do I need to modify the waste gate? Both of my trucks have guages. The silver truck was pushing around 38-40lbs of boost, and the white one is lucky to see 18-20.... Silver truck has 100hp injectors, AFE intake, Banks Monster exhaust, and a BD Edge box... Possibly a waste gate mod, I can't quite remember. I had that work done in March 2005... Huge gains!!! I just found the Dyno sheets the other day... With a fresh tranny HP build, straight from the trans shop to Ken Imler Diesel performance, stock run was 169hp@2750rpm & 356ftlb@2000rpm.... After... 365hp@2750 & 744tq@2500... He said the numbers would be a little low, because the trans guy builds his units really tight, and they take time to wear in... It did seem to get faster with time... LOL! He also did a "shits & giggles" run in 4 low (with front axle actuator unplugged for 2wd low action) 377hp/1874foot pounds of torque... LOL! I don't even know why he did it, but it's real.... I twisted a front axle like a twizzler in 4 low last year...