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..drive my truck under 80mph We got a hill on the way to college I ran the GPS on and it is a 500ft rise in about 1/8 mile. Roommate rode with me up it one day as I cruised up it at 60mph with 10psi boost and he said "you must go absolutely insane when your in a gasser after driving this so long" He has a 4.6 f150 that, hell I don't think it can even hold 60 going up it even after downshifting, maybe if he floored it and it went into 2nd it would hold it.

I did notice my EGT were staying around 600 the whole time. Might have been the 11f ambient keeping it there. Don't think I ever saw it over 700, even when I was doing 80. Think it is downhill from NY on down to columbus though.

I got a problem. The tank before this one was done at 70-75mph favoring the 75, and somehow I got 24MPG. Not sure how I pulled it off. But I got mad at that result so I said if it gets 24 at 75 it will get something even dumber at 80mph. Needless to say, I am at 1/4 tank and only went 550 miles :eek: But I also skipped the 2 stroke on the 80mph run. So now I don't know what the hell to think. All my other results have been dead nuts to my 2mpg/5mph rule. Obviously, need to do more testing!

In short, yes. Though we will not have devastating results from not using it like the next generation cummins, it does help the lift pump and all parts of the fuel system. I noticed a ticking in my lift pump one day, dumped in some 2-stroke and it fixed it right up. Another thing I noticed was it does not smoke as much in the morning with the 2-stroke. Having the timing up, the beast hates the cold and smokes like a freight train until the EGT's are over 400, but the other day, I started it and couple minutes later went back over and said uhhh, wheres the smoke! All I saw was a blue haze instead of a white cloud. I am not exactly sure how 2-stroke can have such an impact on smoke with a cold engine but the results were obvious. I also believe it helps with MPG, the added power is enough to keep you off the pedal just a little bit more keeping you over 20 as long as you are under 75mph.

I know there are a lot of people wondering about where the "sweet" spot is on the cummins for mileage and I am here to tell you that there is no sweet spot. Speed kills. I have ran numerous tests and proven that every 5mph gain costs you 2mpg. A while back I was testing this theory and on a 70mph trip I got 21mpg, on a 60mph trip I got 25mpg, at 55mph I was at 26.6mpg. So I theorized that doing 65 on this 700 mile trip would yield 23, and I was exactly right. I got exactly 23mpg. Less RPM=less injections per minute. Less speed=less wind to push out of the way. It's simple, and it works. I know some people out their are claiming 26mpg at 70mph or something crazy like that but if thats the case, why aren't they posting 30+mpg numbers when they do 60! :confused:

I think everyone must have one behind the barn or something, everyone I talk to always has one they don't like to talk about But yeah, they are bulletproof, cheap, gutless engines that can be held to the floor for hours. I loved driving mine but it is wore out and didn't get any mileage. If I could put a 12v/nv4500 in that ford, it would be the funnest truck in the world. The brakes, the steering, the 4wd, it was all awesome. Guess everyone has a hot rod or something they never drive that they love.

Glad it's helping someone :thumbsup:

Maybe this is what you are looking for http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/general/2-cycle-oil/2-cycle-oil.htm This might be the thread you were looking for http://forum.mopar1973man.com/showthread.php?t=351

Just turn your grids on and watch voltage for a load test We got a little load tester and that is all it is, just a grid heater inside a little box that keeps you from touching it. I know the battery places have fancier ones that are the size of a desktop computer but I'm sure they use the same principles, just with bigger more precise gauges.

I was thinking of something very fancy that you would see on mythbusters or something I can't find much other than the eyedrop things on youtube. Not sure on how accurate one has to be to measure from 1.265-1.120.

Yeah, I'm thinking of putting that shiny oily crap on it and polishing it up and making it my avatar

I've only seen those for the antifreeze but I don't see why they wouldn't have them for the battery. Sounds like it would work :confused:

Yes, you pull the caps off and test the specific gravity of the acid of each cell with a hydrometer.

I have been back at parent's for a while. Got a big garage here with any tool you can think of. Finally got a movie of it starting since I got all the negatives figured out. It smokes like that until it warms up, another thing timing did to it..

I don't see it as being dangerous since the truck would be equally loaded as per what the springs see. It would ride level and would go over bumps equally. I think those Timbrens would just raise the problem up a few inches, but still have the problem. The light side would have the same Timbren as the other, therefore it would sit higher and he would still be leaning to one side.

You can get the bags with individual shrader valves to fill each one up, in fact, those are most certainly cheaper. However, they put the valve right on the side which is a PITA since you have to get up under there, so most people run a little air hose from there to somewhere convenient.

I'd say if you put more air in the heavier side it would fix it right up. Maybe I am thinking of it wrong but I see air bags as a means to get the load back into the range of the springs ratings. So the airbag takes some of the load and now you are back to the same ride as before, therefore, I think the one side having more air in it would work. I would park somewhere level and get the heavy side where you want it, then measure and make the light side the same height from bed to ground.

Think I can top that also. Have had the ford's engine out for months and haven't even begun to look at it. Now that all the oil has parted ways with it, it's starting to rust Not sure if I should care about that engine or not

The place with the B20 is about the only place I know of in a 50 mile radius. It is consistently 10-15 cents more than #2. Definitely weird since E85 is so much cheaper.

That's kinda interesting. The biodiesel has higher cetane so it starts better. I notice a big difference when trying to start with #2 and B20. Mike has endless info on this fact. More cetane, more readily it ignites but also less mileage. That is why 2 stroke may get you more mileage, it lowers cetane giving you a longer burn time. The longer it burns the longer it is producing power. I have not noted any decent mileage with straight B20, if I do run it, it is a couple gallons of it with the rest of the tank of #2 so I can get all the lube without sacrificing mileage.

Sure. You can hook the wires up :biggrin:

Oh. Well let's see here. Based on what you know about me and the time it takes me to do things...... Decided a days worth of paint drying was too long. I do want to take every metal fuel line off and paint them ride though. I was going to do that today but, figured I had better get the damn thing in and done already I will get it painted some day. If I can put it back together then taking it back out and all will be a breeze. I am already a pro at taking this laptop completely apart

I think the point is, if you can work with a Mac and all it's benefits, then so be it. I think everyone wants all the benefits of a Mac. However, it is different, nobody knows how to use it unless you buy one and learn. Now why haven't they been mainstream?? Why does every kid down to like, 5 years old and up know how to use windows.. I think you get the drift. People want endless software from endless suppliers. Mac may have programs that do every bit as much as anything you can get for windows, but it's a hassle to get one program to suit millions of peoples needs. So you got windows.. you can now download whatever thing you want that is exactly what you want. Take web browsers. I think apple safari is incredible. But guess what, it locks up on me continuously, therefore it does not suit my needs. Firefox is fine but featureless, unless you do some digging and enabling and what not. IE is a fine but featureless with the spyware knocking at your back door. Therefore, I choose Opera. I love it. Features out the wazoo and stable as ever. What does all this mean? Means people need options. I thought safari was awesome except for the stability, now I know Macs are stable so I would guess it would never lock up on a Mac, but then I get tired of it and the fact that I can't do things in it that Opera does, but I take it I am stuck with Safari on a Mac? Not sure if I would be. So in your eye's, Mac is the best and everyone should own one.. In my eye's, diesels are the best and everyone should own one.. But no, because people want their variety.Oh and google chrome is a resource ***** like no other

http://forum.mopar1973man.com/picture.php?albumid=19&pictureid=120 http://forum.mopar1973man.com/picture.php?albumid=19&pictureid=175 Alright maybe a little difference

Engine didn't look as different as the frame after I cleaned it, wasn't as much grease. So I didn't take any pics of it. I got the AFC all heli-coiled and now its as solid as the rest of the truck. Going to take all the bolts out of the timing cover tomorrow and put more lock-tite on them. Then I am going to throw it back in the truck. I am going to Michigan and New York, leaving Wednesday so it has to be done by the end of the day Tuesday. I took the engine mount brackets off and I have a feeling that it will go in the truck and everything a lot easier without them. Then simply throw them on once it is conjoined to the trans. I fought them last time because of the huge bushing absorber thingers. I had to go up until the back of the engine was trying break the cowl in two until I could get those bushings off and have some room to move the engine forward. The power steering pump was also a PITA because it has long studs to slide off the vacuum pump and it hits the IP before it comes off. There was this weird thing I had to bed up and do all kinds of things to, to get it out of the way. Those long studs are indeed studs though, so I am going to take them out so then I can stick the pump on and throw the studs in without having to tear up the IP. The fuel return line is also hard to get off because the hose goes back to behind the IP and fuel filter, so you can barely get to it. So other than those things which I guess i have solved, cept the return line.. it was pretty simple. The engine mounts are slotted too, so you just have to loosen the bolts and then pull the engine up out of the mount, don't have to take the bolts out or anything.