puglyfe

I was wondering if I needed to add one.

No, did not install any other hardware, boost elbow, etc. Nothing like that in the package with the Quad.

What should I be seeing for max boost with my setup? The highest I have seen is about 24 lbs.

I was able to get it checked this morning. The steering box needed to be adjusted. It is now back to the normal feel and response to input. The track bar and steering shaft appear good at this time. Thank you for the recommendations and info to help get this resolved.

What is a recommended one to look for? How hard to replace? Where are the wear points on the current one?

Just got back from a trip with the truck and travel trailer. Steering was SLOPPY. Nearly a half turn needed for minor corrections to keep the truck in its lane. Wind gusts and passing semi/busses was an adventure. It was not bad like that before having the tie rods, ball joints, and wheel bearings replaced. All of the parts between the steering box and axle knuckles have been replaced. I would have to do minor corrections but with very little steering input. Only thing not touched was the track bar or the control arm bushings. All of the u joints were good on the axle and front drive shaft. No noises since replacing the ball joints, tie rods, and wheel bearings.

My guess is one of the unit bearings letting go. I saw them after they were replaced and one was really crunchy when turned by hand. The popping, when it happened, was only at full lock like pulling into a parking spot. The bearings went quick when they decided to go out.

So the ball joints, tie rod ends and wheel bearings are all cooked. Getting all of that replaced now. i now know what a bad unit bearing sounds like too.

I have checked for slop in various things and not found any. No visible/obvious issues found. The pop noise has happened one more time since the OP. I have repeated the maneuver every morning at work parking. I did notice a groaning sound now from the front as it rolls. What does a unit bearing sound like when its starting to fail? As mentioned, the front end is completely Dodge assembly line hardware with 187k miles except for the shocks I recently replaced.

This just started this morning, a popping sound when making a tight right turn at low speed. In a parking lot for example. Had not done it turning left at all. Wife said she felt it in the floorboard when it popped. This is while in 2WD. Have not tried in 4WD yet. No obvious cause when I looked under the truck. Truck has 187,000 mile on all the stock hardware except shocks which I replaced last weekend. Suggestions on what to check for?

Thanks for the link to the ACME setup. I had only looked at the Morimoto kit earlier. Does anyone have any experience with the ACME kit? Any concerns with the component quality? Using the retrofit kit, any new housing with a clear lens will work? Any brand better than the others for fit and quality? Thanks for the other responses too. And agreement about using HID bulbs in non-projector setups. I don't know that I have seen any LED replacement bulbs in use yet.

I am looking for the best sport headlight available. I can't afford the RetroFitShop Mini or D2S setup at this time. What are the best sport replacement unit available? TYC, PERDE, Something else from Headlightdepot.com? I will most likely be doing the relay/harness setup found somewhere here to update the wiring. I am looking for the best fit after the best pattern available that is non Morimoto retrofit. What is your experience so far with the best replacements? I currently have the standard 2 bulb setup that doesn't produce much light due to age of the original housings.

I will pull it off the truck tonight and run through the process again if that will help. Nothing in the quadrillionstaller.pdf mentions disconnecting it from the truck to do the steps. While im at it should I also update to the ADRv2.8.4 flash file?

I have an Amazon Fire that I use for the IQuad controls. Last night I loaded the Quad Driver and Quad V2 on my Windows 7 laptop. Followed the instructions in the "How to" post. I'm wondering if something didn't work right. While it was on the command prompt window (black box) I heard relays clicking and the interior chime started going. The keys were not in the ignition at the time. After all was complete I started up the truck and pulled it in to the garage. I noticed the check engine light was on. Then went to shut down the engine, it did not turn off when moving the key to "off". It was at an idle the whole time. I pulled the engine control fuse to shut it down. That may have been a setting in the controller. I was able to restart after replacing the fuse. No check engine and it then shut off with the key as normal. Today I noticed the boost gauge on the controller shows about 47 lbs all the time. It was normal prior to last night, matching my gauge. I had to disable the boost sensor warning to get the truck to run normally in anything other than power level zero. Now every time I start the truck, the settings on the controller revert to power level zero. Again did not have this problem prior to last night. I have selected the V2 Dodge 1998-2002 version 2.7 in Vehicle Selection. On the main menu at the top right it shows iQuad 1.9.41. What is necessary to fix the boost reading and keeping the settings on the controller?

Thanks to all for the input.

Agreed, the site is quite helpful to us Cummins owners. I do have the CAD axle. Seems the vacuum setup is the preferred. Any difference between BD and PacBrake? Pictures of the 2 kits look roughly the same.

I think it has the CAD. Option on the truck are the shift on the fly 241 transfer case and Dana M60/248MM front axle.

I'm looking to add a 2wd low setup to my 2002 HO 6speed. From what I found so far there are 3 kits available, BD, Pacbrake, and Posi-Lok. Is there a preference of one over the others? is there anything else I missed? Two are vacuum based and the other is a mechanical setup. I want it for trailer maneuvering, taking some stress off the clutch.

Looking at one of those (Fuel Boss) as well for my next lift pump. I got about 60k or so miles on my first Raptor. How do you like that Fuel Boss setup?

Is the seal internal? it never leaked. When it went out I had zero fuel pressure, the truck would only idle. Was only a block away from home when it failed. I attempted to contact Airdog and no response. Not surprised as I suspect they would rather sell new ones than parts to rebuild. I was just out of warranty, had I actually sent in the registration card on the first one. I did for the second one though. I guess I will take it apart and tinker with it, for curiosity's sake.

Is it possible to rebuild a Raptor FRRP lift pump? I had one go out a while ago and its been sitting in my garage. Has anyone been successful with rebuilding one if it is possible?

Update: I received the ECM back from ACS and installed. Everything works normally. The only bad thing I can say is they use UPS to ship. I am not a fan of UPS. I also installed the new +75 horse injectors while waiting for UPS to find my package. And did a valve adjustment. Truck started up ok but poor idle. Tracked it down to a still loose injector line. Tightened that one and verified all the others and then it was very smooth. Runs so much better. Ran it for a week like this to ensure the ECM was happy before any other changes. The injector change made such a difference in the drivability. Then added the iQuad V2. Did not tap the pump yet. That was a whole new experience with the truck. With the stock iQuad levels a much more responsive mid range through top end. There was more smoke but cleared up as soon as boost came up. At some point when I have time I will start messing around with the tuning of the iQuad. I know there is a lot of good info in this forum for that next step. Thanks for the info and input you all have provided!

Alternator is here. Working on the battery cables to get them to fit tight on the negative posts. Had to cut through the bolt to get the old one out and allow more clamping force on the post. ACS acknowledged receipt of the ECM late last week. Hopefully they can repair and ship back this week. I did order some +75 horse injectors from DAP this last weekend too. Going for the Quadzilla too. CFO has not said no so that is as good as permission to me.

I now have a Nations 180 amp alternator on order. I have a Bosch OEM alternator, not so easy to rebuild myself. I have also sent my original ECM to Auto Computer Specialist for their repair services. ACS is one of the recommended ECM vendors here so giving them a try. Going with their service to repair my ECM and return. Takes a couple of extra days to ship my ECM first but a bit less expensive and I am supposed to get my original unit back. Still in process of checking the grounding points. So far it seems the battery cable connections were the worst. Not very tight on the posts. Everything else so far looks good. I'll update as I get the ol girl running again.

@Curt026 How has your truck been since the ECM from goecm? I may be in the same position of needing one myself. Thanks.