Daveb

Thanks for that. The engine starts and idles perfect. And seems to accelerate smooth with tons of power right up to ~1630rpm. It seems to run perfect up to that point, then seems to shut off just like a governer on any other engine. I'll look into your ideas. It also has 319k and uses no oil.

Thanks for the reply. I was just living in Lansing for the last two years and just moved back out west. Too far from home... There are no fault codes of any sort but I can try to have it read anyways since there could be a burned out light or such.

Hey guys, I was hoping someone could point me in the right direction here. I've helped and been helped a lot on this forum regarding my Ram 2500. I have another question and was wondering if anyone knew of a good place to check. I recently got a 2012 freightliner cascadia with a dd13 12.8 Detroit with an eaton fuller ten speed. The manual says the governer kicks in at 2000 something rpm and mine cuts all power at about 1650 no matter the gear you're in. Twice the other day as I was pulling logs up a hill in 8th it suddenly opened back up while I was bouncing off the governer and cranked right up to 2000 rpm, letting me grab one more. Any ideas why it randomly did that and how to make it do it every time I floor it per the manual? Or where to take this question? Thanks.

The service was $300 on sale. Not sure if sale is still on. https://autocomputerspecialist.com/repair-yours

I FOUND THE FIX!! Hello All, For anyone with an engine light that contains a p600 code (there may be others too such as fuel calibration, map voltage, or IAT voltage, etc.) ISSUE: I had no wait to start light as well as strange throttle responses as if the APPS were failing (mine was not, it tested perfect). The issue was a corrupted ECM. I decided to send the ECM to Auto Computer Specialist in Florida and they did a great job flashing it and it resolved ALL issues. I had a p602 code (among others) which according to them was due to bad terminals and batteries. I had two family farm and home batteries (with aging terminals as MI salts roads) and they apparently could not survive a Michigan winter. So, if you have a 2001 with any p600 codes they informed me this is due to the batteries and terminals creating a voltage surge to the ECM corrupting the main processor... This is the main cause of a 600 code. There is also a limited number of times they can clear this but I am hoping that I never have to do it again... Hope this helps the next guy and sorry it took so long to post. -Dave

THE FIX FOR THIS POST IS HERE!! The issue was a corrupted ECM. Autocomputer specialist in Florida did a great job flashing it and it resolved ALL issues. I had a p602 code which according to them was due to bad terminals and batteries. So if you have any p600 codes they informed me this is due to the batteries and terminals creating a voltage surge to the ECM corrupting the main processor...

I will have to go to another shop. They had no clue what I was talking about.

Well, I performed the attached tests on the APPS. It was all good. Alternator passed on autozones machine. The diodes look good. If it were your truck, what would you do? It still kinda runs. Can't make it on the freeway to the dealer. Can't believe it took a total crap overnight. This is crazy.

Well thank you for the detail. I'll tear it apart later. If the alternator is bad, do you think the ECM can be flashed or it's smoked? ill still check the apps as this happened overnight. I mean it starts and idles fine, just a responsive/unresponsive wacky pedal. But more investigation will tell...

Well, true dat. All I can do is test that and the IAT and MAP while I'm at it. May as well test the engine crank sensor too. If it is the ECM this thing is a real POS. I take such good care of it. Now I'm starting to get scared that I'll be able to make it home while out in the UP. Wondering if it's not a reliable year to own. Seems like you're happy with your 02. Enough speculating. I'll test everything and see what happens.

Just left for lunch and unhooked it. No change. Starts and idles fine. Barely made it home for lunch. Acted like it was jumping all over the place. Totally erratic throttle. Just got home. Going to take the apps apart and clean it. Don't know what else to check at this point. Gonna be a long slow drive to the dealer. Well, I recalibrateed the apps and it did nothing. Starts right up and idles fine and occasionally will surge for a second out of nowhere once every few minutes. Then the pedal is all over the place.

Wow, I'll check that out and let y'all know what I find.

Wow thank you I will check that!! I know there are only a few wires on the alternator, I can research what the field plug is (guessing the only plug-type connector back there), and will then see what happens. You think it's safe to just pull over when this is happening and then disconnect it then continue on my way without shutting the engine off?

well now that I think about it, mopar man mentioned the alternator as being a possible culprit, and one year/15k miles ago, I swear it was making noise. I think I should have that checked first, then clear the codes, and see what happens. On my way to work this morning I think I am losing my pedal. The thing starts and idles fine and drove fine for about 3 minutes. It started acting up and jumping like it didn't know how much to fuel it needed the rest of the way to work. It was like the pedal was jumping around. Fuel psi held steady at 14. I'll see if I can clean it too.

Interesting. I have a comp box. The ac seems to be normal. No strange noises. Really? An ECM? Geez I hope that's not true if so what a pile.

I just cleaned both sensors. They were not dirty.

Just started driving home and now the throttle got a little buckey when I was accelerating. Just started. MAP sensor?

Brand new overflow valve with new pump. I do have codes just recently (engine light came on last week) but the issue was occurring prior to the engine light as well.

Not sure to be honest. They are DAP. The ones before it were stock ones with as much as 250 k and they were doing it too.

Hey guys, I figured I'd post to see what you all thought. At completely stock power or with the edge comp all the way up, stock injectors and turbo or aftermarket, it doesn't matter, the truck will die after a hard pull if you take your foot off the pedal. It won't drop back to idle like it should. If you keep your foot on the pedal just a little bit for a couple seconds, it recovers and all is well. It sounds like it's running out of fuel. The airdog never drops below 12psi. The vp has about 3000k on it. It did it with the old vp too. I'd like to understand why if possible. Thanks.

14-15psi sometimes drops to 11 then instantly picks back up to 14 while cruising around. 32 psi boost pressure. Strangely enough 32 psi with stock turbo too. Didn't change when I added 64mm silver bullet or the 120 injectors. Definitely feel more power though. I wonder if it's truly hitting 500+hp. So apart from stock it's a six speed with a standard comp, 5 inch turbo back with hx 40 downpipe (so 4 inch), 120 injectors, and a 64mm silver bullet. The injectors and the silver bullet have been on since nov. the turbo hardley ever gets lit. Too much for a 6 speed. I just put this thing to work and back in town. Looking for a decent used 62mm or stock one to put back on to make the move to Utah. Gonna put the silver bullet on my built auto when I get it. Not sure about the injector miles. Pulled them from another truck with blown head gasket. Seems to idle super smooth and clean. The box for the injectors was still in the truck so I'm guessing not super high miles. Plus the fact that truck was working fine for over a month with no changes in mods points to something else... it seems to be good now after blasting out the breather.

Sorry didn't mean to send that. So I bumped the key and it went to 15 psi and stayed there while cranking too. And then during starting. I think that the issue has been resolved though. It has started the last two days and this morning as well didn't even turn over for half a second before it started. Lol stupid dodge. Always something simple. Gotta love em. While the post is open, ever since I put the comp on the truck, if you are over about 2k rpm and are pulling pretty hard and instantly let off, it will die. If you slowly let off, it will run on a few cylinders, if you keep your foot on the throttle just a little bit till it goes to idle, it's fine. Maybe MAP sensor?

I will look closer tomorrow. It's been a few weeks since I checked that part of it.

I will look closer tomorrow. It's been a few weeks since I checked that part of it.

Well I mean as soon as you bump the starter to get the lift pump going the gauge says 15. Then if you crank it it still has the issue. What I will say though is it has started fine today three times. Let's see how tomorrow goes. It's never ran fine two days in a row since the issue started but last night I cleaned the breather and this is Michigan so it got down to -20 a couple times and has been mostly below freezing since December.