ronman

Welding cable! Find a shop that has a good selection of ends and get however many feet of 4 or 2ga wire you think you need, plus a couple extra for wiggle room.

I've had both of mine replaced under their 3-year free replacement warranty. The driver's side died a couple weeks before Christmas, and the other one went out just after I replaced my injector pump and installed the FASS. The latter tested out at 0.2 amp-hours, so it was definitely, as the great Jerry Clower said, "graveyard dead."

Well, unfortunately, I don't really have much of a choice. Leaving the camper in a campground at $30 a night while I drive home (1 day,) order the converter and wait (a week,) get buddies to make time to come over and help pull trans (however many days til a Saturday,) and get back up to retrieve the camper (1 day) is not an option. Stopping at every rest area and dumping in a quart or two of $3/qt transmission fluid, on the other hand, is.

It's using a quart about every 40 miles right now. The whole underside of the truck is oiled and when I'm stopped I can see dripping around the inspection cover. I'm thinking pump seal. Is there something more common that I'm overlooking? The other kicker is that I can't fix it til I get home, and that won't be for like 12 days. I'm also going to be towing my 34' 13,000 pound 5th wheel home... Another question: at the rate it's burning through fluid, can I just dump cheaper DexIII/Merc in there? I'm going to be putting in a new converter when I get back, and doing a full fluid change.

Hmm... ok, so I unplugged and reseated the IP connection as well as the APPS, but it's still there. Are these codes in tandem something to worry about? It does feel *a little* down on power, and it's shifting about 200rpm lower than normal. --- Update to the previous post... Actually, come to think of it, I was playing the relay shuffle when it died, because I couldn't get it to pump fuel at all. I quickly figured out that the factory security had shut power to it down, and so a quick double-twist of the key later and I had an operating FASS once again. Could I have set the code by cranking it with that relay out??

The MIL was on the other day, after I ran out of fuel. Apparently my draw straw starts to suck at ~1/8 tank indicated... anyway, I thought it might be related to that, but I just hooked the scanner up and got:P0122 - Throttle Position Sensor Circuit Low VoltageP1689 - Delivered Torque Circuit FailSo, experts, what's the scoop?

FASS is in! I didn't put the filter in because I never bothered to check the size of the fuel line, and believed the guys I bought the pump from when they said it'd come with 1/2" line. So, tonight when we started checking everything out, we noticed that the fuel line was only 3/8" and therefore wouldn't fit my filter head's 1/2" barbs. Oh well, I'm gonna do some research and see if it's possible find some 90s so we can mount it on its side, which may or may not work. I left all the stock stuff in place so if something happens it's just a quick changeover and I can be back on the road. I'm gonna order a set of brushes for the FASS to keep in the glovebox on the suggestion of a 3rd-gen friend with a full FASS system on his truck. Biggest thing I ran into: THIS THING IS SO QUIET! I was expecting it to scream its head off. I'm guessing mounting to the bed itself causes some resonance or something, because with it mounted to the crossover with a rubber isolator, it's every bit as quiet as the stocker was with the hood closed. Also, that freaking bed is HEAVY. I had 4 helpers (so 5 total, with me at the back center) and it was still a huge pain in the ___.

Thanks. Right now it looks like the bed is coming off Saturday; good thing I didn't get tickets to the Rolex 24. :cry:Any tips for FASS installation once the bed is out of the way?

VP44 gave me fits, and took almost a full 2 hours of cranking, charging, cranking, charging, cranking, charging, tightening lines, and finally, finally after all that priming drama, it started up. Timing is dead-nuts on, starts with a twist of the key, no codes, nothing. Next up: get Wal Mart to replace the dying twin of the battery I made them replace last month; pull the bed to install Mr. FASS150, and procure a Vulcan big line kit. www.ronman.org/misc/truck1.mov www.ronman.org/misc/truck2.mov

I've already got it filled out, just gotta find an envelope and a stamp. More people recommended the FASS to me than the AD, so that's why I spent the extra $50 and went with them.

FASS 150, AirDog drawstraw, Cat filter & head.

Nice, that's a lot better than I was expecting. It'll suck to give up my cubby hole, though...

Yeah, they say it comes with a black Lexan mounting plate upon request. Where does it mount, exactly? I'm picturing something that replaces an AC vent...

$120 isn't bad at all. I've been looking at all these sites that sell Autometer and Isspro and everybody wants $200+ for the damn things. I'll check out Geno's right now...

Why the heck are they so freaking expensive?!

I have in fact had it on a 2-stroke diet, although nowhere near 1oz/gal. I had been reading elsewhere that people were doing something like 6-8oz/tank, so that's what I was doing. I have the stock, block-mounted LP, so it never even had the factory "upgrade" or whatever it's called done to it...

I spoke to moparman this evening as I was being tow-strapped back home from Melbourne to Orlando by my friend's Duramax. :duh:I had zero symptoms of any problem before this afternoon. While towing my fifth wheel camper home from a race, on flat, level ground as is usual for Florida, I had an instantaneous loss of power. I shifted into neutral and coasted the rig off to the shoulder, and tried to restart. It cranked endlessly but would not fire. I decided to crack the #1 injector open to see if I was getting any fuel, and saw none. Ditto cylinders 3 and 4.Then I cycled the key and verified that I could hear the lift pump operating, and could. I loosened the pressure regulator banjo bolt to see if fuel was getting to the pump, and plenty of fuel poured out. The only code I was able to retrieve from the "key trick" was a P1963.At that point I didn't know what else to do, so I called a friend with a hitch to come get the trailer, and we pulled the truck to a nearby Walmart to park it while we took the trailer home. After getting back to the Walmart several hours later, I attempted to start the truck and much to my surprise it fired right up. No smoke, no funny noises, nothing, until I gave it a little gas, and then it felt like it was completely defueling and wouldn't rev over 1200rpm from an idle of ~800.So, we strapped up and headed out. Getting strap-towed nearly 70 miles was a first for me, but it was uneventful. Now that it's home, I hooked up the autotap and got the following:P0251 P1689P1688So, is the IP toast like I think, or is it something cheaper and easier to fix?