ronman

Will you be around in a few hours, Mike? I'm not near it right now...

19psi while running yesterday, around 10 cranking, plenty of fuel coming out when I loosen the return banjo. Nothing more than a slight trickle out the back/at the injectors while cranking. Tries to start on ether (grid delete, sprayed through the boost bolt) but since there's no fuel it's unsustainable. First VP went out at ~130K while towing. I replaced it with one from a truck at a friend's shop that he had owned since new but had a cracked 53 block, and I've been running on it ever since. Last night, after driving all day, I went to Daytona to bring an engine crane to a racer friend who's running the SCCA Nationals, and shut it off so we could hang out for a bit and catch up. I pretty quickly determined there was no high pressure fuel and we towed it back to my place, 45 minutes away. Now I need a pump. What do you all like? Notable points: FASS150 was installed with this injector pump. The truck it came off of had a stock pump, but for the past 115K it's been fed plenty of fuel with 8oz of 2-stroke oil added at each fillup. There are no codes other than my normal P0122 from my flaky Timbo APPS. Cold starts have been 1-2 sec key turn and it jumps to life. Hot starts have, for the last probably 18 months, been difficult. Usually I had to cycle the fuel pump 3-4 times before even thinking about cranking, and even then probably half the time it still needed a small shot of ether to get going. The last couple weeks, after starting, it would "hiccup" for just a fraction of a second after it started.

My temps are fine, even pulling uphill (what qualifies as uphill in Florida is drastically different from the rest of the country) it rarely goes past 185. As far as calling Goerend, even if I had 5 large to spend, I wouldn't call them... I'd drive 6 hours to Suncoast and let them do it. I'm also not replacing my perfectly functional FTI single-disc converter. It is utterly preposterous to suggest that someone needs $5,000 in transmission upgrades to run RV275s and a tuner.

Man, in Florida I'm thrilled if I can get 5 years out of a battery... usually it's just past the three year free replacement. My most recent batteries are Duracell-branded JCIs from Sam's Club, the last three sets were Walmart Everstart Maxx or whatever they're called.

Daily driver, sees about 5-7k miles towing a year. Probably 1/2-3/4 of that is a 13k 5th wheel, rest is a 20' flatbed with car/truck/50hp loader on it.

I thought Carli didn't make anything for our 2nd gen trucks...?

RV275s, a Smarty and maybe an HY35...

I put XRFs on my truck in 2010. They're still just as tight 5 years and 115K later as the day I installed them. Now if only I could say the same about the rest of the components in the front end...

Unfortunately there is no money in the budget for a $700 billet input shaft, unless you know of one in the $400 range. My valve body was done by a longtime friend of my father who has built Mopar race trannies for almost 40 years. It's a Superior kit. I'm not planning to redo the valve body. I have no idea what's involved in installing the 48re planetary set. Is it a simple drop-in, or is machining of the drum required?

You can go down to an Autozone or Advance (or probably O'Reilly, too) and "rent" a pump that'll pull a pretty hard vacuum for about $150. They refund you when you bring it back.

I've read Dynamic's posts about not using Alto Red frictions and steels, so what else do I need to know? I'll be doing it myself (with the assistance of a Chrysler master transmission tech) in a nice, clean, air-conditioned garage, and I'll be pressure-washing the underside of the truck and the transmission case once it's out. Problems currently are no 1-2 shift unless I lift completely off the throttle, and a leaky rear seal. The kickdown lever is broken, which allows the 2nd gear band to float free above the drum. 2-3 and 3-4 are essentially normal shifts. I've already got an FTI single-disc converter and a Suncoast billet governor solenoid plate and oversized/GM solenoid. I don't realistically see the truck ever being modified to make more than 350-400hp. So, what parts should I use? Does anyone make a decent, comprehensive kit that includes all the gaskets, seals, etc. in addition to the recommended Raybestos "hi-energy" clutches? What about oversized pistons/servos and accumulators? Any upgrades to 48RE hard parts that can be done while it's apart? I have no desire or intention to open up the overdrive section of the trans. So, suggestions/tips/recommendations?

According to our own AH64ID, the M1-403 is a solid middle-of-the-pack performer. http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/general-diesel-discussion/373261-what-oil-filter-do-you-use.html

This price is still valid, FYI. I just ordered 6.

Thanks for this timely post! I'm pulling my gearbox out next weekend for a rebuild (the output shaft seal is FUBAR and it leaks like an SOB) so when I inevitably drop one and it rolls off into the abyss, this will save me a few minutes. :D

Huh, interesting... I just followed the instructions on the sheet that came with it. I'll try your way, maybe it'll go away!

It worked fine the first year. It's (is, or at least, was) set dead on the OE voltage. Digging the old one out of whatever box it's found its way into and re-checking the voltage on the Timbo might not be a bad idea, though.

All the pictures of D80s I saw online had an actual piece of keystock in there, so I'm not sure what the deal is. Fortunately mine was stuck in the nylon pretty good but not so much so that I had to really work to get it out (and potentially fling it all the way to the other side of the garage!)

My Timbo has been throwing a P0122 since about a year after I bought it from him... in 2010.

Wow that socket is an SOB to find... I called 12 parts stores before I finally found one, 40 miles across town, that had one in stock. Pretty darn easy once you find it, though. The key is pretty different from any I've seen before. You've gotta sink it into the nylon on the nut... My reading said to tighten it to 120ft/lb then back it off 1/4 turn. The hub should spin easily at that point - my axle looked great, bearings were in good shape, just the seal had gone out. The seal was $31.70 from Napa and is an SKF seal in a Napa box. I cut the side off an ATF bottle and dumped in some diesel to clean the bearings and nut up, then cut open another bottle and doused both bearings with 80w90 Mobil 1 and let them soak for a good half hour while I did some other stuff before putting the hub back together. The only thing out of the ordinary I encountered: you have to really He-man that hub to get it off once you've got the nut off. It fits TIGHT over that lip on the spindle, even when its leaking.

Is it possible to R&R the pitman shaft seals (26/28) in the truck if it's 2WD??

Working on my rear brakes this evening I discovered an unfortunate problem - my pass. side axle seal is done for. There's a nice nasty coating of oil on the inside of the drum, and the snout of the axle is covered in greasy black brake dust. I've never had an axle out of this truck before, but we rebuilt the diff in my brother-in-law's '05 Chevy 2500 (AAM axle) a couple months ago, so it's not exactly foreign ground for me... but that said, is there anything I need to look out for? I know I need to get a gasket for the axle plate, but what other parts (besides obviously the new seal) do I need to get?

I didn't forget about you, rburks!!!! I did the fronts today. For Mike, I measured the thickness on the new rotors - 35.6mm - and the one I took off the driver's side, the one that wasn't completely borked because of a hung caliper, was down to 35.3mm after over 80k. That's with Hawk "red" pads. The grooves are ~3mm deep, it's tough to get an accurate measurement but using a small nail I got close enough. Parts porn: Anyway, here's the dually adapter: I got one side done on the back, but I'm stuck til I can get an axle seal in the morning to do the other.

Thanks abenin, I guess I'm calling the dealer!

I've got '05 3500 wheels on my '01. I didn't even change the nuts.

Is there a source (Grote?) for the seals? I can't imagine too many dealers still have many parts laying on the shelves after 13 years...