dodgethis91cmns

so i came home from work today and yanked the LP and pre filter assembly off. heres a video of my findings. sorry for the quality and shakeyness. let me know what you think. and anything else you guys want me to check let me know, im open to all ideas.

gAg0bLW_a2Clfff6E4lVXrgupdnW7HY=ISX-this is what i was talking about with the chug. this is a video i shot today, coming off 24 hours of sitting un- fired. it sounds like a miss, you can see it in the Tach, it starts adn runs ok for a second or two, and then goes to crap , and back to normal after a few seconds.

to be honest i wasnt really concerned with the fuel filter condition, because it sat for so long and i was in question as to if it was ever changed. but now you have me curious, and a bit worried. ill see what i find tomorrow when i pull the lift pump. im hoping that it ends up being my air in fuel problem, i cant even begin to think what else could be letting air in as everything BRAND new and sealed well from tank to pre filter.

not a problem. tomorrow when i come home from work ill take it off. do you thing this could also be the culprit of why i'm getting a tiny bit of air in my fuel system giving me that chug on initial start up.

so today i took off the pre filter to check it out. this is what i foundnot exactly sure what was in pic 3. it looks like algae which i guess is possible seeing as how the truck sat a little while. in pic 4 that was a little bit of metal shavings and general dirt. all in all there really wasnt much in there as compared to the fuel filter. i got a great video of start up today and it really chugged for a good few seconds. ill have that posted up in a little bit. i have yet to re install the pre filter, im curious to know if i should check anything else.

Isx- i did not clean the tank as it still has a 1/2 tank of fuel in it. I guess ill have to pull the pre filter off because i went out and startedit this morning and same results. Fired up then did the chug again. Ill have a video in an hour or so --- Update to the previous post... OTHER NOTES- there was never WMO run through this pickup. i talked to my uncle whos the second owner and after he bought it and started his company he gave the truck to one of his workers. he said it doesnt sound un likely that the fuel filter was never changed. ISX- also i was curious, would you pull the whole LP and pre filter assembly or could i get away with just pulling the sediment bowl off ??? and do i need a new screen or anthing or can i just pull it clean it and put it back on.

let me start with this:mad: and this:banghead:...................ok now moving oni had problems with my truck somehow letting a tiny bit of air in....so i posted a thread before and all fingers pointed to the teflon tape i used on the fittings of the draw straw.so....i purchased myself a can of permatex prepping solution, and a tube of the high temp thread sealant. I sealed all the treads at the draw straw, and the one fitting at the pre filter. I allowed it 72 hours to dry and fired it, and it ran fine. I shut it down after 3 mins of running and started it back up 2 minutes later, same thing fired then chugged like it was missing for about 5 seconds. Today i came home and changed the fuel filter and to my suprise i found this..........my fuel filter looked more like an oil filter, it had black sludge all over it. the truck has 168xxx on it and i dont know if the fuel filter was every changed, it sure didnt look like it. But the fun didnt stop there......yep thats METAL SHAVINGS in the bottom of my filter housing. i have no idea how in the world they got there. bottom line is the fuel filters fresh and it started and ran fine. im going to go back out and start it again in an hour to see what it does. the one question i had is this, in doing all the things ive done thus far wih the fuel system, i havent removed the pre filter. if i start it and it runs like crap again does this mean that my pre filter could possibly be clogged???? i read alot about guys taking them off and never really finding anything in them.

gassernomore- i used regular white sealant. its funny you said something because i notice the sealant is yellow around the fitting on the tank. what kind of spray sealant do you recommend??

so i have new fuel lines in my truck. ive been starting it and letting it run for a little while each week. i cant drive it as the bed is off and it needs inspection. the other day i started the truck after the wait to start light it ran fine for about 5 seconds and then chopped almost like it was missing for about 5 seconds.it sat for about a week and a half after that and i started it again, only to find it had lost prime and needed to be re primed. so i primed it and fired it and it ran fine.today i went out started it 2 times no problems. each time it ran for about 2 minutes then sat for about a half hour. i went to start i a third time, and it idled good for 5 seconds then started chopping for about 4 seconds then went right back to idling fine for 2 minutes. from what i know id say im getting air in the fuel line somewhere, but i have no leaks. and all my lines and fittings are new. is there a good easy way to test for air in fuel??? also i have no idea when the last time the fuel filter was changed. the truck sat for 2 years and has say for another 1year at my house.

we both live in southeastern PA. he wont have to go through emission and inspections just visual. I dont know if he has a warranty at all but ive been reading into the smarty JR and the say it doesnt leave any trace behind.i think thats the route i would send him, theres alot of good testimonials on the forums about the smarty JR.

a family friend recently came to me and asked me to help him squeeze a few more MPG's out og his 06 crew cab 4x4 auto. its got 105xxx miles and has no mods.Now not really being a common rail guy, i suggested what i know will help.-suggested a fuel filter change- bumping up tire pressure a little bitnow as far as mods go the furthest i could go with educated answers i suggestedair intakeexhasut and of course a chiphe liked the chip idea, but im not quite sure what path to put him on as far as whats the best chip for MPG.anyone have any experience chipping for milage?? if so any favorite brand out there??

Dave i have more pics of the hole i drilled in the module bottom and a bunch of other stuff if you need anything me know

just to follow up with what i started the thread about.....got my module all drilled and fanagled and what not. it was a bit of a pain and aot of puting it together and taking it apart to trim a little off the straw but heres what i did. this guy completely out of my setup.after that i drilled a hole about 3/4 (actually a smidge bigger to allow fuel to return around the straw) in the module bottom to allow the straw to poke through and down to the screen belowafter that i measured and measured again and cut my straw to the apropriate length. NOTE my module now touches the bottom of the tank and is permanently fixed to its measured length (14 inches or so) with some bigger bottom head screws i had in the garage. then i castle cut the bottom of t he straw for easier pickup.and this is what she looks like all said and doneso far past that i have the module back in the tank and the OLD supply line completely removed and i have replaced the fitting on the pre filter with a 1/2 90degree brass fitting. the hose is connected at the prefilter i just have to decided whether i want the lines inside the frame rail or outside.what do you guys think???

Isx- the only think i can think of needing is a size on the flare nut that goes into the pre filter housing

The return line shouldne become and issue as i kept it 5/16. Also i like the idea of the prefilter so i think i ll keep it for now. Also a big thanks isx for the re assurance

ISX- my plan was to go from the tank to the pre filter and use a barb fitting to take my supply line right into the prefilter. I think.i.would have to do this as my new supply is 1/2 inch.As for the return, i was going to remove the hose clamp by the fuel filter, slide off the rubber hose and replace with the new rubber hose then run it to the tank. So the fitting between the head and IP would not be messed with as wrll as the steel line.Sorry for grammer errors ahead of time on my phone lol

Moparman- just so theres no comfusion im referring to the fuel system on a 97 12valve. I dont recall my fisr gen having a pre filter. Im still trying to finish my rubber fuel line install from the tank to fuel assembly.

so this is what i knowthe supply line from the tank comes up around the area of the fuel filter canister, it runs through an L bracket clamp down to the fuel heater prefilter, then out of the pre filter into the from of the LP through a molded hose and 90 degree brass fitting. from there it goes of the the LP straight up to the bleeder screw on top of the fuel canister.i just want to know FOR SURE that of im running new line from my tank to the engine it would connect from the tank to the pre filter and then i would leave the rest as stock. is that correct?also is there any actual replaceable filter in the pre filter assembly?thanks in advanceNICK

ok so heres what i gotthats what i got as far as the stock setup was concerned i clipped the old supply line that went down into the screen, no big deal, the problem now is that that little coil line that does to the module top and is capped off is preventing it from sitting verticle, PLUS the issue of THIS the draw straw ALSO wont be in the middle of the module to go down into that hole where the old setup did.whatta ya guys think?

moparman- those rusty lines are exactly the reason im replacing the feed and return lines with nice new rubber.but im still corn-fused as far as the draw straw goes. do i just put it in place of the factory feed and return lines and call it a day? or do i have to connect it up to whatever the two original lines went to? i have the module out and sitting on my bench....i kinda just keep doing this:banghead:

rogan- sorry spelling wasn't my strongest point. LOL as far as what im trying to accomplish ill re-cap for you.THE PROBLEM- My fuel supply or return line (one or the other) started leaking on top of the tank.THE SOLUTION (hopefully)- to install a draw straw I, to replace the rusted old connections where it was leaking from, and ALSO to install 1/2 inch feed lines and 5/16 return lines becasue the ones in there now look less then PAR.as far as taking the bed off i had two reasons-i didn't feel like wrestling with the tank as it has a little over 1/4 tank in it- now i get to give the frame and everything else a nice coat of POR 15if it wasnt for that i would have left it on becasue LET ME TELL YOU, truck beds get alot heavier when theirs 200 LBS of modified stone frozen to the plastic bed liner:lol:. good thing i had 3 good friends to help me with the lifting.

Jag1- my appologies. i should have known better about having my sig filled out. my appologies it has been corrected.

Well i got around to having a few friends come over today and help me pull the bed off my ole' dodge. I didnt get much done as far and fuel system is concerned, just popped the module out and kinda started figuring it all out. I didnt need to verify a few things?First- my draw straws the hard plastic type. My mosude has the supply and return coiling down to the bottom. Now from what i understand i completely remove the return because it will now just dump from the milled aluminum topper woth the holes in the bottom? And if i have the hard plastic type straw ( vulcan draw straw I ) i juwt need to fit it uo to meet the bottom of the strainer basket correct?Second- i would assume even know im not running a fass type system yet , i should still drill the appropriate holes in the bottom of the module to lwt the fuel flow,from the module holding area back into the tank?

so i just reveiced my fuel line and fittings from vulcan performance. I upgraded the draw straw as i figured i might as well since the tank will be out, and the connections on the old one are porbably rusty.well long story short, i got to talking to one of my friends who has 2 cummins trucks (a 24v and a 12v) and he told me that his personal experience WITH the draw straw in both his trucks he complains of loosing fuel pressure when taking off and when stopping with about 1/4 tank.NOW my question is, vulcan performance included instructions with my draw straw kit (yes i read instructions:lol:)they show pictures of drilling holes in 2 DIFFERENT kinds of fuel modules. im guessing this is for 24 valve guys and 12 valve guys? and i understand the object of the holes is to help with the return flow, could that have been my friends problem????i just dont want to install something and have a problem with it........NOT a fan of doing work twice

Mopar man- i appreciate the help. I will take a look in the morning. Im assuming that a 12 would be the same.