dodgethis91cmns

hey guys does anyone know what the fitting type/style is at the engine compartment area (from where ever the return line begins)??????????trying to be absolutely positive im ordering all the right things.

moparman- thanks for the link. i knew there was something out there for replacing those buggers.NOW heres the question. that kit is for a the feed line, is there a kit for the return line too?im not exactly sure what line is leaking on my tank. its leaking on the drivers side between the tank and framerail.(it kind of looks like the rubber to steel line that has the funky angle coming out of the tank but im not sure.)

well i started my day with a call from work sayig take the day off. YIPPEEE working on my cummins all day:thumb1:. got the valve cover gaskets changed, oil changed, and the brakes bled.fired the truck up.....and shortly after i notice fuel dripping down the side of the tank, so i crawl under and look and sure enough at the top of the tank its dripping around the area of the HEAVILY rusted steel fuel line leaving the top of the tank.in my honest opinion both steel lines look to be in poor condition with flaking rust, which is ironic because theyre one of the only things rusty underneath of the whole truck.so what it comes down to.....--IS there a place to get aftermarket fuel lines to completely replace the stock steel ones???--OR does anyone know what kind of fittings are on each end of the line? i could have my local hydraulic hose place make me up whatever i want out of braided stainless.

Wild & free- i know there is no advantage to a 5 inch. I simply want it for the look and slighly deeper sound. Interesting info about the trans temp gauge. That sounds like a good call to me. My plans arent to tow heavy but it may at some point tow my car, and it will tow my boat as well.

Now what about mounting a fule pressure gauge in the cab and in the pillar? I had a fuel pressure gauge in my firat gen but it was mounted under the dash and it was 2 5/8. It had -4 jic fittings on stainless braided like rated for 5000 pai or so so needless to say i didnt worry about it leaking. But there would be no way to run that kinda material behind the pillar

Well i sold my 1st gen and finally have gotten motivated on finishing fixing up my 2nd gen. But i have a few last minute add ons i want to put on before shes on the road.Current truck info. 1996 ram 12v 2500 2x4 5spd. Motors bone stock except for the kdp tab. Everything else is stock 166kI already ordered an s&b intake (slightly used but not a bad deal off of ebay,I have done searching of all sorts and have chosen my exhaust. Going with 5 inch flo-proaluminized no muffler ( we will see how long that lasts)The one thing i curious of was, i want to get a three gauge pillar pod. I will get the boost and pyro but whats a good gauge to get for the third? I had a trans temp gauge in my old truck but is it necessary in,a manual? What about a fuel pressure gauge?

Hey guys sorry ive been m.i.a i havent had a chance to check on this thread until today.Isx- great writeup on finding out if ur timing is accurate. The only thing is im a little scared because getting the truck to TDC seems like a chore...and i dont have a dial indicator or a barring tool.I deffinatly want to check it...guess ill have to grow a set. Mopar man- ill take your advice on the starwheel. Now so i got it straight forward with the fuel plate= more fuel, back=less??

Is there any quick way to check timing? I think if im not mistaken you need a dial indicator. My first gen has marks on the ip and timing case. My idle is a wee bit low as well. Its a hair under 500 and i beleive its supposed to be 780 could that be a retarded timing issue as well

Just started tinkering with my new soon to be Daily driver. its a 1997 2500 12valve 5 spd (215hp motor). ive driven it two or three times on my road (its not totally legal yet) and this thing is a dog. it seems as though it doesnt really get moving until around 2200 rpm. i know theres tons of mods you can do the IP on these things but is there a free mod that will bring on some power a little sooner?

:thumb1:all the info is great keep it coming! mopar1973man- this site is really nice, kudos. im not sure but i thought there was a fellow over on DTR who had a similar handle wouldnt have happened to be you would it?? im leaning in the direction of fixing up my car and selling it to buy this truck. but im still up in the air......but EVERYTIME i jump in the driver seat that 12 valve puts a BIG OL smile on my young face:)

my current truck has been having some problems and ive been thinking about the truck ive been fixing up for my uncle as my new DD. its 1997 2500 5spd 2x4 std cab 166xxx bone stock jsut noticed to that its a 215hp motor......for now he told me because im his favorite nephew he would sell it to me for a price of 3300. not ot shabby im thinking for a p pumper. i could finally make my first gen ive been driving for 5 years my project, a dream come true. THE DOWN SIDE...the truck NEEDS TLC to say the least. here are the current problems im dealing with and have been doing some book work on before i attack (not to mention it hasnt been over 25 in the past few days in PA and theres still snow under the truck:lol:) -the brakes are basically gone. popped the master and there was NO fluid in the first resivior, i think thats the rear? and low fluid in the back res. so i obviously have to fill and bleed the system like a son of a gun. but not to big of a deal. the only question i have is how do you bleed the abs system? -the ABS light and BRAKE light are on. im thinking because theres probably massive amounts of air in the lines, but i also read that a vaccum leak can affect brakes and make those lights come on. so i will be doing a vac, check. any other ideas im open to. -the parking lights are always on when the keys on...im guessing headlight switch???? -the powersteering was also BONE dry when i got it. so im going to fill it. is there any particular procedure to doing so on a dry unit? do you have to bleed in any way? there are no visible leaks brake wise or power steering under the truck. could this be because it sat for 3 years?? MOST OF ALL what do you guys think is it a deal???? **admins. i know i probably should have broken this book down into drivetrain and non drivetrain questions, my appologies

ISX-thanks for the quick reply i really appreciate it. im glad to see my theory was proven. now on to adjusting the idle. i have a diagram of the actual idle screw. as far as procedure goes i know that i get the truck to opperating temp. then do i set the idle with the truck running? sorry for the newbie questions, im coming from the first gen world to this p-pump and im basically learning all over again.

so i have posted on other forums that im working on a truck im considering buying. its my uncles at the moment. its got alot of little problems im sorting through (thats what happens when things sit for 3 years) DETAILS- 1997 dodge 2500 std cab 2wd 5spd. BONE SOCK 166xxx. 215hp motor SYMPTOMS. its been 20-30 oF in eastern pennsylvania lately. ive been tinkering withmy uncles truck fixing it up. i started it the other day after letting the wait to start light die and buzzer go off, i cranked the truck and it took 3 cranks (2.5 more then my 1st gen ) to start, fired and then just sputtered to shut down. tried her again cranked and then same thing, third time it fired idled like crap at around 400rpm and then settled out after 1 or 2 minutes to 500rpm resting place. QUESTION-ive read that the truck i described should idle at 780rpm. so is the low warm idle why it idles bad on cold start up????