dodgethis91cmns

So recently I had an incident in my truck during hurricane sandy.....and need less to say I hurt my truck:cry:. And now I'm in the rebuilding process and have run into some issues. Basically my steering knuckle is bad. I was searching around and one of my buddy's has a parts truck that is the same as mine, ( 2wd standard cab 2500) but its a gasser. Will the knuckle still work on my truck????

Mopar man - thanks and absolutely. I'll do a write up tonight and post it in here of the full rebuild start to finish.

Well I haven't been around the forum for a little while and I figured I'd share my starter rebuild. It basically completely died and would just click. So I went to larrybs.com and ordered myself a starter rebuild kit. The kit includes a new plunger new contacts and brushes. Install was pretty easy there was a little soldering involved but if your handy it's not to bad. I made a little video of my rebuild I case anyone runs into this problem in the future. Hope it helpsI kind of yapped on and on in this video and I'm no master mechanic so if I'm calling something the wrong part or whatever I apologize ahead of time. Also this was the first video I cut with iMovie so I had to play a little This was my first starter rebuild and I can say I defiantly would not be afraid of donning another. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hydOTn1QA8g

I go to the dealer for as little as possible, ill do what rogan said first!

so recently I've been towing my boat alot more since fishing season has picked up. my truck came equipped with the factory 7 pin trailer box on the hitch. I guess after many years of abuse my 7 pin has decided to crap out. In diggind around i found that on the drivers side frame rail right at where the hitch bolts on, there are 2 plugs one large square 4 pin, and a smaller flat 3 pin. the go directly to my 7 pin box. I've been searching high and low to see if i can find a new one to directly replace my factory one, but i have come up empty handed. ive tried most of my local bone yards, etrailer.com and ebay. NO luck:shrug:.i guess if i REALLY have to ill buy one and splice it in, but I'd really like one that just plugs in. Anyone have any ideas where else i might be able to get lucky??

I did resolve the issue. I ended up RTV'ing the lifting eye on both sides and reinstalled. I also didnt jack hammer the 3 bolts, just took em to a good snug

dripley- tie rods are next on my list. after dropping the coin on this stuff i have to recoop a little before i do the tie rods, pitman arm, and a red head steering box. by the time im done this thing will handle like a ferrari and ride lke a cadillac. moparman- no deep pockets here, just scraping together a few extra:2cents: --- Update to the previous post... oh yea whoops i forgot to mention i got a 3000gsk for my truck to, hopefully it will wake this pig up a little!!!!

so i have an upper ball joint that seems to be squeaking and making all kinds of issues when im stopping. Mainly that it pulls to the right a little. So i figured i would get some quality ball joints. And then i proceeded with the order button and this is what i ended up with-prothane 2" leveling kit for the front-daystar scorpion +2" shocks-reybestos upper control arm bushings-reybestos lower control arm bushings-reybestos prefessional grade upper ball joints-raybestos professional grade lower ball joints-moog problem solver sway bar end links-reybestos professional sway bar bushingsill have pictures of it as stuff rolls in. i plan on tearing the whole front end off and putting it all on. I figured if your gonna tear it down might as well replace it all at once.:shrug:plus im going for a better stance a little nicer ride

mopar man- i dont know if you put any 2 stroke in it yet but man it made a heck of a difference when i had my first gen. I got about 1 MPG and it just ran so much smoother, the bosch VE pump doesnt really like the new low sulfur diesel. not enough lube in it. have you looked at your fuel pressures at all? if so what are you getting out of the LP?

GENERAL INFO1997 2500 2X4 5 speed NV4500 dana 80 posi rear 3.54 gears166XXX miles215 HP p pumpamsoil GL-4 trans fluidmobil delvac 15-40w oil16 inch real alcoa classics (no ford wheels)265/75/16 Nitto Terra grapplersMODS-S&B intake, silencer ring MIA5 inch rollin smoke diesel exhaust, no mufflervulcan performance draw straw II1/2 rubber supply, rubber returnKDP Tabbedstarwheel in 3 turns

yea it does. like you push it down and it feels like little resistance, and about 1/2 way in it has alot more resistance. also i checked my vin and i got a recall for throttle linkage so the truck will be at the dealer monday.

thanks ISX ill get new rod ends tonight. in the first set of 3 pictures was that your throttle cable? because my throttle also has a weird problem, where as u push the pedal in it gets firmer.

well i finally got my truck running and inspected.......MAN I MISSED DRIVING A CUMMINS!!!!!!:hyper:so for the first trip i took it on a 120 mile round trip to my girlfriends college. It ran pretty good up and back but i did have one small hick-up. i was pulling into a parking and lost throttle completely. so after a quick look the throttle linkage rod end nearest to the firewall had popped off. It looked to me though that whatever is inside the socket part of the rod end was still attached to the ball on the linkage bracket. Now after talking to my uncle he said that there was an "E" clip missing off it. but as far as i can tell from pure diesel powers website and diagrams of throttle linkage there are no E clips on them. So im guessing that i just need new throttle rod ends ?? Also is this a common issue???

ISX- in your video when did the assembly of the diesel thermostat, you put that first rubber seal in there, min didnt come with that rubber seal. so i just stuck the t stat into the housing and then followed that with the doughnut seal, big end in first, then the lifting plate. do i need that first rubber seal?? --- Update to the previous post... ive looked all over and cant even find that first rubber ring. rock auto ( my main parts source) only offers the big doughnut that goes on the back of the t stat and through the lifting hook. im going to have to tear this thing apart tomorrow and try to get it right, i just got laid off and i need my truck running ASAP.

this is a problem i just cant seem to figure out.my temp gauge in my truck never worked. so first place i went was the thermostat. i replaced the the other day and thought i had it but unfortunatly i didnt.1- when i removed the old thermostat it had a small rubber gasket on top of it, and then the big doughnut rubber seal that goes against the back of the t stat and through the lifting hook. the NEW t stat looks TOTALLY different then the old one, which i was told is not a big deal. but it didnt come with that first small rubber seal. i would assume that the thermostat just sits flat in the housing with no small rubber ring, and then the doughnut goes behind it???2- would anyone reccomend RTV on the lifting hook on both sides??? this is the last thing i can think of to do. 3- does anyone have a picture of the location of the coolant temp sensor on a 12 valve?? seeing as now i have to replace that becasue apparently thats the root of my problems.

just have to throw in my .02 cents here, because i tried the same thing in my machine shop at school.the grade 8 may seem hard bet could possibly still be to soft for a fuel pin. the stock pin i beleive was 40 rockwell which is HARD. i used tool steel and heat hardened it twice. and mine still ended up grooving. if it starts to groove badly it could affect how the afc work. just something to think about when you run it

will simple green or some kind of cleaner work to wipe the inside of the tank down with?? And what exactly can i do with the diesel once its out. thinking that its contaminated the only thing i can think to do is dispose of it and start fresh. would it be possibly to mix it with fresh fuel later or should i just follow my gut and get rid of it?? Also what kind of solvent should i use to flush my lines??and heres the plan I've devised for this weekend-1) re install my lift pump and clean pre filter assembly.2) pull the module and pump the fuel out into a 5 gallon container.3) use whatever the recommended cleaner is and wipe down the inside of the tank.4) dump 5 or 10 gallons of fuel back in the tank and whatever additive i end up with and re install the module5) hook the lines back up and fire it

i have the bed off so all would have to do is pull the module and suck the fuel out. if i go this route what would your suggestion be for solution to clean the tank with?? also can i burn the fuel i pump out of the tank? or should i fill with good fuel and disregard the contaminated fuel. at $4.23 a gallon its like gold anymore.

WHEW thats a sigh of releif, taking the module back out and all wasnt sounding fun. so i guess the truck will be idleing in my driveway for a while once its back together . i will be making a stop at my local NAPA today on the way home to see what i can find.i cant thank the people that have chimed in enough. you guys really are top notch cummins owners

DANG so i gotta take my module out and clean my whole tank? it has about a 1/4 in it now, would it work to put it back together and run the fuel thats in the tank, then fill it back up and and run bio kleen in the next tank?? i thought algae came from sitting over time thats why it didnt raise a red flag to me.

all my fuel lines are new, from the tank to the prefilter, and from snap on part of the return line to the tank. all lines are now rubber as well.

Sorry I must correct myself.i dont have to prime it every time i start it. i primed it that many times because ive been doing alot of fuel system work and prime it every time i pop a hose off or take the fuel filter off etc.the question is, because ive bled it so much, could the copper washer under the bleeder bolt be the issue?

it is not a continuos pattern.basically when i first fire the truck after it has sat for a day, it will start, run fine for 5 seconds, then go to the chug which sounds like a miss, and then after that itll smooth out and run fine.in the video it lasted about 8 seconds, you can see the tach drop and the camera shaking a little. then it smoothed out and starterd purring like a kitten.THIS just struck me. in the time ive had this truck ive bled the fuel system at least 12 times. i do this through the bleeder bolt on top of the fuel filter, and pumping the LP primer. could my air leak possibly be the copper washer under the bleeder bolt?

ISX- i understand where you are coming from. my first gen was my first vehicle ever and i did countless things too it, and modded it and dolled it all up. and i LOVED every second of it.....okay maybe not EVERY but most. that's why when i sold it, it only took me 2 weeks to jump into buying this one. I think the other reason i love owning a cummins so much is not just because its an amazing engine, but because of the people you get to meet and interact with, much like yourself.i appreciate all the help you've given me in this thread, and in others. i look forward to you NASA engineering project and i cant wait to see what you come up with. thanks again NICK

thanks again ISX.im wondering if its worth replacing the LP just incase, but i guess if it works fine then it cant hurt. ill take the filter off tomorrow and take another look at it now that it ran about 5 minutes since i replaced it. I think im going to take a mirror and check the underside of the filter housing, i dont feel like replacing all the copper washers quite yet as i have some other work that needs to be done. also i was curious is there ANY good way to scrape the gasket off the block? i stuffed a rag in the cam hole, i was thinking of putting RTV on the back of the pre filter assy. that mates to the block but i know if i do that with my luck itll end in a leak. And do small block chevy fuel pump gaskets work with these LP's like they did my first gen?these problems are really beating me up man, im a young guy who just wants to drive the "new truck" ive had sitting in my driveway for a year. its just really frustrating working my butt off the get this truck driving and theres always some monkey wrench thrown in my plan.