Finlandese

@Tractorman You are very welcome. Glad to give something back to this great forum. I've driven 50 miles now without issues. The hardest thing was to solder the wires back when the pump is in it place, I wish I would had three arms and 25 long fingers

Found another company in Europe https://www.vp44diesel.de/en/

No problem👍

www.sercap.fi was the company. It repairs lots of different computer boxes for cars and trucks and agriculture machines. www.hakkinen.fi is Bosch sertified diesel shop, they can rebuild whole pump. Websites are in finnish so you have to translate

I roughly calculated that vp44 is 1200-1500$, shipping close to 100$, VAT 24% of the whole price and 4.5% goes to customs here in Finland. So it can be over 2000$ before I have the pump in my hand.

Truck is running fine and no codes. They found faulty part in psg and replaced it, on year warranty. Next time it dies it's time for whole new pump. One issue left, my quadzilla acts weird. It takes time before it connects abd after that every sensor is 0 but coolant is -40°F.

I know. Psg could be so toasted that it can't be saved. Just found out that 50 miles from here is Bosch certified diesel shop and they promised to rebuild the whole pump for 1300$ if the other shop can't wake up the psg.

Had to cut wires, wires were stripped close to psg. Maybe that has toasted the psg. When I get psg back have to solder the wires correctly and put some heatshrink tube. If that doesn't help next step is new pump! If it goes to that, what brand vp44 you all recommend??

@Mopar1973Man thank you!! This forum always helps!!

A company takes 230€, that's close to 280$ for diagnosing and repairing the psg. I have to check this card because ordering new vp44 from USA would cost lots of $$ and shipping old core back is expensive too.

@Tractorman it's typo! Didn't even notice shoul be 16" How tight fitting fuel solenoid is? Any special tools needed? I called the rebuild company and they said that just cut solenoid wires with pliers and solder wires when installing psg back. Not so good idea to cut wires in vp pump. But now I know that I can take the whole psg package out and no need to cut the wires.

Hello. My truck died suddenly and now it's only cranking. Got a P1688 code and looks like vp44 computer is toasted. I found a company which repairs vp44 psgs. Now I'm wondering do I have to cut the wires if I remove psg from top of the vp or can I take the solenoid apart from the distributor end? Thanks and Greetings from Finland!

Thanks again!! It's nice to have real answers, some Facebook groups seems to have all smartasses who pretend to know better than anyone

Larry B don't ship to Finland, just noticed. Rockauto has Standard Motor Products relay, maybe have to try that!

Anyone installed Larry B's grid heater relay? Have to buy new one because old one got stuck and almost burned my truck!

Eric from Vulcan Performance answered my email and already sent right parts without extra charge. In my opinion good customer service. It takes couple of days the package to arrive to Finland. So now I have time to fix my camper shell

Thanks for your help. If have to take a trip to a bigger city and check couple of hydraulic shops! Atleast I got the filter changed

Installing wasn't a success, those two jic adapters were different size. Smaller fits both vp and ff housing but the other one is too big, I think maybe M14 and it should be M12!

If I have understanded right bsp and npt are different and shouldn't use together! So 90 deg fitting with tapped 1/8npt thread is better to put in filter housing?

Hello. Just got a package from Vulcan Performance. 1/2" big lige kit for my 98.5 24v. I got the 90 degree fittings in both ends, vp44 end has tapped port for fuel pressure sensor. That thread shoud be 1/8 npt right?? Was wondering what that one fitting is in the picture, the one with plastic cap on! It says 1/8 bsp in the cap. I was remembering that those two have different angle in threads. So can I put a needle valve directly to that 90 degree fitting closest to vp44?? I have also 18" long grease gun hose to get the sender away from vp. Can you give me some ideas to assemble the kit? Thanks and greetings from Finland!

It's risky business to drive with bad lights, lots of moose and white tails here too. Just couple of days ago friend crashed with whitetail, his Opel's frond end was trashed!! One question about halogen bulbs! Want to get good quality h1 bulbs, here in Finland we have Phillips and Osram bulbs. I found PIAA bulbs from ebay, quite pricey but how's the quality?? Don't want to use 100w bulbs and melt the housings! I want to avoid leds because they don't produce heat and our weather here in winter is so unpredictable. Light will be covered with ice and snow!

Here is a bad picture of last night heading home from work. Auxillary high beams 2x50w xenon in Bosch 225 housings. Led bar is still off!

My friend bought these ebay lights! H1 halogen bulbs in low and high beams. Not so bad light for 100$!!

https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/dodge,1998,ram+2500+pickup,5.9l+l6+diesel+turbocharged,1400162,body,headlamp+assembly,10762 Are these junk??

Hello. I'm searching second best option for headlights. I know retrofit with morimoto projectors ate the best but $$ is the issue at the time. Any decent aftermarket housings available? Looking for good low beam, high beam isn't so important! Already have enough auxillary lights so I can see far! Also has to be with two bulb housing because my trucks headlights have been modified to meet European standards ( Hella projectors in high and low beam ). Light output is is junk!! Low beam has now H7 bulb and high beam is HB3 bulb! Sorry long story but dark times are coming and greetings from Finland!