NIsaacs

Hag, thank you again, that is an amazing description. So the way I understand the pump description, it is always pumping against the relief valve and is using power? Is this type of hydraulic system (power steering) a unique system differing from other hydraulic systems? If this were the case, a large system would not allow the engine to even turn over/start. For example a log splitter. I just went on a quick 3 mile round trip to load my dump trailer, slow 1st gear road and let it idle while I unloaded. I checked temps on the system. The pump was 135*, hydro boost 135, lines 105 and the gear box was 114....interesting.

Thank you for your response, I understand most of what you are saying now, however, I am still resisting the above quote. The way I understand a relief, it is just that, a relief, and is only in use when the system is against dead pressure, brakes maxed out or steering at lock. That the pump flow is unrestricted via the return line. If the pump was up against 1500lbs pressure at all times it would cook in minutes. I do understand the 1500 lbs is available at all times, just not in use until assist is called for. Am I still missing something, lol

Hag, I think the fluid is always flowing threw the return any time the engine is running. I think it is demand sensitive, it has to be. As soon as you step on the brake or turn the wheel, the return flow is diverted to assist the brakes or steering. What am I missing here? KATOOM, that looks good, simple but effective. I have never checked my system for heat, I need to do that. I had an old '79 Ford F-250 with a cooler smaller than that. When I parked it after a few years in the log woods, I took it off and installed it on another Ford in the gas line to help with vapor lock.

I think that is a good plan, I will be watching for the pictures. Here are a few pictures of my Hydro-Boost repair and a small writeup. It was just a small leak, not like your issue. https://www.turbodieselregister.com/threads/weekend-maintenance-on-the-01.259915/#post-2558205

Is it 1 1/8"? I think it is actually 29mm. Maybe the 29mm will fit slightly tighter? Take a short bolt slightly larger than the hole in the center of the hex and drive it in. That might help stabilize the soft plastic hex from distortion as you turn it.

Yes, you should at least change it and if it has been a long time you might need to flush it. I change mine regular so I don't flush. Pull your pressure line off the pump, it will drain. Jack your front tires off the ground and turn your wheel lock to lock several times, let the pump drain. The pump won't completely drain nor will the hydro boost housing, so if your fluid is dirty you will need to flush. Install your pressure line and fill the pump. I use an automatic tranny funnel that is long and slender. Use a flash light so you can see when the pump is full, make sure you cover the pump casting inside the reservoir. Install lid and start the truck, let it idle for a minute then shut it off and check the fluid. If it is dirty, drain again. If not, top it off, start the truck and turn wheel lock to lock several times. Shut it off and check the fluid, it will be foamy with air. Let it sit with the lid off until the fluid is clear, no air. Top it off and repeat the lock to lock and repeat the top off and air check the fluid. When the pump stays full and there is no air in it you are done. Keep in mind it will take several start/stops to get the air out. My two Dodges have always growled at times but it don't seem to hurt them, they are both original with 320k+ miles on both of them. I have re-sealed the '01 and the Ford gear boxes, once each. Good luck.

Power steering systems have been using ATF since day one. My wood splitter recommends ATF below 30 degrees as do my dump trailers. I have used both on my trucks, currently running power steering fluid in all of them, but on cold mornings the Dodges will groan for a bit.

I agree, I never overfill my manual transmissions. This is what Spicer says about overfilling: http://Overfilling Do not overfill the transmission. This usually results in oil breakdown due to excessive heat and aeration form the churning action of the gears. Early breakdown of the oil will result in heavy varnish and sludge deposits that plug up oil ports and build up on splines and bearings.

Good call, the off road shops will be experienced in Dana axle repair. They are all the same design, from the small 30's in Jeeps to the 80's in our trucks. The Dana axles are the most difficult/complicated to repair of all axles. The GM 14 bolt and Ford 9" are the easiest, in my opinion.

Long time member with TDR, new member with the Cummins Forum and now here, I need a lot of Dodge Cummins food! Thanks, Nick