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NIsaacs last won the day on September 8 2019

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    Snowflake, Arizona

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  1. How long have you owned the truck? Is this something new or always this way? If it is stock, that is about how they pull.
  2. Yes, original, I change oil every 36k miles with 15/40 diesel engine oil. On a hot day, towing in 6th for hours it will not get over 195*. I never let it get low or dirty, I also never overfill. I don't use any coolers or filters. The truck has 335k miles on it. Note how clean the oil is. I have since changed out to a 180 t-stat and notice everything seems to run cooler from the 190*. Fuel , tranny and IAT temps. If I lost any fuel mileage it would be too small to measure.
  3. Thanks, it has 3.55's and yes I tow in 6th all the time if I am at 60 mph and above. The trip I just made was a slow road, no freeway but lots of steep grades including Salt River Canyon. When I tow my sled puller in the Rocky Mountain states I average 12 mpg, I am at 19k gcw. Local round trip hauls with my dump, I average 13-13.5, loaded 26k+, empty 14k.
  4. Just make sure they are "new" Bosch injectors. You will need a boost fooler and elbow for best results. I just made a round trip, 389 mile run with my '01 hauling a loader bucket both ways, probably about 8200 lbs total weight of the truck and got 19.16 mpg on winter fuel. This is with 285/75x16 tires and 300k miles on my RV injectors, set on level 5 with the Edge Juice.
  5. Another plus of changing oil is you can inspect what is in it, possible brass or anything at all that don't belong. When I tried it in my '01, cold days were the worst, warm days were fine. Shifting quality was/is night and day between the 50w and 15/40 engine oil, in my NV5600. It was like the 50w synthetic was just too slick.
  6. According to this invoice your tranny pretty much received a complete rebuild, including syncro's. Maybe the heavy twin disk clutch is giving you false feelings of syncro issues, slow your shifts down. Again, I would try a different gear oil before I pulled out a (possibly) perfectly good tranny. https://mopar1973man.com/topic/16584-nv4500-broke/?do=findComment&comment=216697
  7. Why would a builder not inspect and repair as needed, especially something as wear prone as syncro's? I would not be happy about this. I think I would change out the 50w gear oil and try something else first. My '91 Dodge w/Getrag and '74 Ford w/Clark 280VO likes it. My '01 Dodge w/NV5600 did not.
  8. Flat bed dually's take power and fuel just to roll. My Ford only gets 16 mpg and it is a VE pumped 12 valve, way less power than yours. The flat bed is 8' wide, air horns, full size west coast mirrors, two transmissions and stacks all take a toll.
  9. My NV5600 takes one gallon. I never overfill. I change every 36k miles with 15/40 engine oil. I tried 50w synthetic manual transmission oil one time, it didn't like it until it warmed up a little. Maybe it is too slippery too, IDK. I assume the Redline you used is a synthetic, what weight? I would say your shop did the change just fine. There are overfill stories all over the internet, however, any manual transmission manufacture will tell you to "not overfill". I drain out of the bottom PTO cover bolt and fill till the oil runs out of the fill plug. Every other change I will pull the cover and clean the magnet and sop up the small amount that is in the bottom.
  10. I had the same problem with only changing two tires at a time. For some reason old Michelins don't play well with a set of new tires. Here is a thread on my experience. I recommend changing the front's out too. https://www.turbodieselregister.com/threads/strange-michelin-behavior.258287/
  11. I think Mike has 4 wheel abs, the tone ring failed in his front unit bearing. I think you said your truck was 2 wheel ABS, same as mine. So no, on the diff bearings.
  12. Mine started out doing what yours does. It first started out acting up when I was towing heavy on a hot day and climbing long grades. It was related to hot under hood temps. After I topped out and cruised on the level it would work fine again, until the next hill. At first I thought it was the rear axle sensor, that climbing, it raised the temp and then cooled off on the level. So I changed it, no help at all. I don't remember how I determined it was the module, I think I guessed Anyway, I bought a used one off E-Bay and it fixed the issue, that was several years ago. It is vehicle and 2 or 4 wheel abs specific. It did act up one time this year. I was towing heavy out of Phoenix this past summer @ 115*. The long grade out of Superior, 5 miles of 7%, water temp at 219, it quit for a bit, but just this one time.
  13. It might be your ABS Module. https://www.moparpartsgiant.com/parts/mopar-module-anti-lock-brakes~5015528ad.html
  14. Some good info here on my thread at TDR, (Ford twin disk) It may or may not apply in your case. Take a good look at the pictures, they tell the story. https://www.turbodieselregister.com/posts/2560735/
  15. That's what I used for years in my Ford dually when it was a gasser. The Cummins is gear drive, Holset 8.5 cfm air cooled. When I need portable air I have one of these. https://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200660640_200660640
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