scubieman

Here you go

I see two alumnium gray lines and one black. I assumr your right and black one is brake line.Is there a drawing diagram for how cooland flows? Like cut out or diagram? Same with return fuel line, cut oit or drawing?

I show under truck 3 fuel lines. Which is what and why?I assume two returns and 1 feed? Also doesn't the CP3, fuel rail and injectors return fuel to tank?

I have my fel pressure gauge after fuel filter right before cp3. So if i see 7 psi then im gelled. I though like 5 and under would be gelled.Thanks again.

Thank you!What pressure does your dummy light come on. My fuel pressure is 10.5 max. What is a dangerous psi?Also how does someone know they are gelled vs other possible issue?

Do you have pictures of this inside the engine?Also when it exits the engine is that low pressure then?

Does it go to the fuel rail after lubing or different system to return to tank? Better question how does the excess fuel exit engine?

So each injector has a feed line and return line? I assume the excess fuel lubricates before being returned?

I have no clue what this is? I am trying to learn the truck and everything about it. It appears the fuel system has 3 return lines.One from the CP3, One from Rail, and one from Fuel Drain manifold which all combine into one.

I read fuel rail through obd 2 port. The lift pump psi cant be read through obd 2. Neighter can the trans temp.

Thats what the plans are. But it will cost almost another 500 bucks between pan gauge and everything else. The wife already hates the truck.

Hope to tell if i gelled if truck wont start. But more for gelling.

I like the fuel pressure due to living in south dakota so i can see if i failed.and also monitor for fuel filter status.The tranny temp is my next project but i need gauge new oil pan and gauge holder so i need to plan.

The truck was deleted once before I got it. I bought it at 98K. I removed DPF at about 102k and just removed the EGR and EGR cooler at 104K which I currently have on truck.Before EGR and EGR Cooler deleted I pulled 7000 pounds up some smaller hills for a 40 mile run. It never thought about coming out of 6th gear. I had more then enough power.The exhaust brake almost stopped working. But now using it all the time and not having emissions it cleared right up

Just thought I would let everyone know I removed all the emissions in case anyone needs help. It does really suck and hurt the hand a few times but truck has been running better and better. Nothing like 22 MPG+

Where do I look?

I want to service my 4x4, unsure if anyone has every changed fluids since it has 101k and not one record for the truck. Kind of stupid to buy it but it looked good.Anyways changing 4x4 drivetrain I mean; front, rear, transfer case. What fluids would you use, how much does it take? And why would the stealership charge 325 dollars to change fluids. They said it was about 100 bucks in fluid just for the rear end alone, i looked up and seen about 13 bucks a quart and rear end holds 4 quarts. I believe this is wrong.

So its like fuel pressure gauge... Dont really need but is nice for some troubleshooting while on the road?

But why monitor it? Do I have to worry ever about too much?

Hoping someone can help me understand boost?. I understand it uses the exhaust pressure to spin turbo to push more air into the engine..But why have a gauge for it? Only thing I can assume is for the people that are running it down a truck or pulling 20k+ trailers. I plan on for now pulling about 10k or less. Chipping for MPG not for power. I am not running it down the track.. I guess you could say I will not be pushing it's limits in any shape.the only gauges I can think of of getting is pyro, trans temp, and soon rail/fuel PSI.Also what makes boost change? Putting pedal down? Pulling a trailer up steeper hill? I'm new at the boost so a guide for dummies would be great!

For all the reports they say it cleans the injectors by up to 40%, it improves fuel by 1 MPG, and engine is quieter. They say with the price of additive and the small increase in MPG it's a wash with price, but you get the added benefit of the lubricate.Now I dont get the luck of running 2 cycle since I have the 6.7 so I am looking for a different option. I prefer to stay away from number 1 fuel, but dont want to gel just cause I am afraid to run some.Last past couple winters for almost two weeks it has been under -10F for 2 weeks straight and some nights at -40 windchill or -25 temp

So being new to the diesel world since April. I was wondering when you guys switch to 50/50 or straight 1? I seen a product by diesel kleen that will have number to not gel till negative 30 F. I would still do 50/50 before then. I thought about running opti-lube. read great things. So in a wrap of a question. What diesel to run when and to run additive when?[MOPAR][/MOPAR]

Deleting dpf and egr is bad if a programmer does not tell computer to ignore.

Sorry for bringing this from the dead. Where did you get your gauges and how much(If you dont mind) The reason I am asking is because the mini maxx has about 20 or 40 digital guages you can choose from. I want a programmer more for MPG then anything. I already unplugged my EGR which threw a code but my fuel mileage has gone from 11.5 mostly heavy horrible city to about 15-16. So for sure worth the unplug. The tranny is my number one worry. The EGT I dont think I will have a problem since I wont be towing much weight(like 8000 at most) and anything real heavy will be short distance.

Bummer, Because I know Moper 1973(forgot his name) was trying to push getting a gauge next to fuel filter for the PSI there. Really I should have two fuel gauges , one to test if fuel filter is good and second to see if rail pressure is up to par.