2000Ram2500

I hear you there. Working with the shop at the dodge dealer here I see and hear so many different things changing and this part fits this but not that and all the back and forth then dealing with a catalog thats wrong half the time anyways its hard to keep your facts straight after a while. I keep a data book that i wrote up and put together myself so i dont have to wait for the computer and i know its right. Chrysler doesnt offer that kind of help. The most recently dated cheat sheet is 2011. I could fill this page with complaints lol.

Nope thats how mine is too. Plastic cap its like a 22mm wrench or something to get the cap off and the filter is right there. OE Filter part# 5015581AD fits 2000-2002 according to the manufacturer but if you interchange it im showing it fits 5.9s all the way to 09 according to oreillys parts catalog. 99 and older is the all metal canister i believe.

It was completely rebuilt by a friend at his transmission shop. Billet triple disc converter. Almost everything internal is new. Thats actually was caused the transmission to go out was the torque converter welding itself together.

Honestly its probably all of the above. I know the radiator is packed full of junk from the crank breather. Im sure the fan clutch is original. The water pump is starting to seep a tiny bit. Coolant is old pond water and needs to be replaced. The bigger tires and highway gears is killing me too. I know the trans cooler needs to be upgraded too. Sitting in a drivethru on a hot summer day i have to keep it out of drive or the trans will get too hot. I can start at the menu board and after 10 minutes of waiting to get food the trans temp will go from 160 to 210 but its also got no air flow at that point either but you would imagine with it under no real load that the fan would pull enough air to keep it from burning up in a drive thru.

I've got a big line kit 1/2 inch with a fuel pressure gauge port. My goal was to go with all half inch lines to make the pumps job as easy as possible. Is the inlet on the fuel canister the same thread as the VP? Can I use the fitting airdog provides for the injection pump to attach my supply line to the fuel filter housing. I would use the push lock it has now but its only 3/8 im pretty sure.

Back in August we picked up the rest of my things and trailer from storage because we finally found a storage place here after living here a year. Stopped at the scales and combined we were over 18k lbs. Trailer has 2 quads, a buggy, an old yamaha, spare parts, every tool i own, and the front is converted for camping. Its pretty packed for a 24' enclosed. Anyways Im stock aside from the mods i've got in my signature and at a disadvantage with tires and gearing being what they are. Coming up and over Palomar mtn in southern cali is always a tough grade. Had to pull over and let it cool down before i even got started up the hill. Then driving through the desert it was 110 degrees and we were driving with the windows down and the heater on because the slightest incline would send the temp up if i had the A/C going. Once we got to smooth road that i could really maintain speed on we were able to use the A/C. It was an overnight run so it was dark we didnt leave until 4 pm so it was quite literally 110 at night in the desert. There were some cool spots. Believe it or not 105 feels cool compared to 110 there is a real noticeable difference. Got into AZ and got to the steep grade before Yarnell and It pulled it okay i guess. The coolant and trans temps settled in well above the comfort zone but they stopped going up to i maintained speed at 15 mph the whole way up. If i remember right the coolant was like 235 and the trans was like 240 coming up that hill. Im just going off memory. I'd be curious to know what my EGTs were but i havent had a chance to tap the manifold yet. This was with the edge set to tow mode with the sub level set to 2. I knew it was a heavy trailer and i knew it would be really hard on the truck so i went easy on it. Kept my following distance maintained speed as best i could to try to keep everything smooth. I've yet to see any mechanical issues arise from this thankfully. Just this stupid fass i gotta replace

Been a while but finally got an update on all this. Airdog 150 came in yesterday. Been thinking since I ordered it about how im going to accomplish this. I think the easiest way for me is going to be pulling the bed. I've got a little over 3/4 tank in it now and all i have is a junk floor jack and a dirt spot to work in so for my own sake i dont think dropping the tank is going to work for me. The Airdog came with its own draw straw of sorts and the instructions say that its for trucks that had the in tank pump. This truck has never had the in tank pump but there pickup tube is supposed to be installed into the tank itself and not the fuel 'pump' module so that shouldnt be an issue. I know i will need to plug the openings so i dont get dirt and stuff in there. The return line coming in through the filler neck is a bit interesting to me. I planned on putting an auxiliary tank in the bed one day and i havent been under there yet to see how much rubber line i actually have on the filler neck but i didnt know if anyone else already has an auxiliary tank and got it figured out with the airdog there too. Then my next thing is about bypassing the factory filter. They want you to simply run the line right to the VP from the airdog. I dont have an issue with doing this but i will want my fuel heater and water in fuel sensors given the fact it gets pretty cold here and ice gave me trouble last winter with door locks and headlights being frozen over. Im going to mount the unit inside the frame to keep it protected at least somewhat. Is there an issue with running the airdog into the factory housing? Is the filter the issue will it cause too much restriction? Do i just remove the filter and put the cap back on? I really would rather not have to deal with fuel gelling up on me. Or maybe im just paranoid and it wont be an issue at all

Got it started. Didn't have to crack injector lines but that must've been the issue because it definitely ran like it had a bubble in there. I gave it key starter bumps until the fuel pressure wouldn't go any higher and the most I could get was 13 psi without the truck running at all. After starting it the pressure would drop to 11. If I gave it any throttle over idle it would drop and not recover any pressure. If I shut it off and bumped the starter I could get it to go back up. I did figure out that if you try the key bump to kick the lift pump on after you shut it off from running that it won't activate the lift pump unless you pull the key out and wait about 30 seconds or so before trying again. So it looks like a lift pump will be where I start considering it can't hold pressure.

@dripley Yea i know sorry for the confusion. I havent cracked any injection lines yet so when i get to it i'll give it a whirl. Itll also help me figure out if im even getting fuel in the first place but if i go that route i wont do it for long for fear of making my injection pump worse than it already is. I was meaning i had a hard time getting the gauge line to pressurize and bleed out which to me points to the lift pump being dead or weak. Do lift pumps get intermittent when they start failing? That could explain why it ran terribly the day before i parked it but ran good on my way home that day then ran 10x worse the next morning. I'll be home before long i'll get some better diagnosis done on it hopefully when i get there.

Thats what i was doing to get air out of the fuel pressure gauge isolator. Crack open the bleed screw and let it shoot out of there until the bubble stop. I would turn the key to run, bump start and let the lift pump build pressure while i grabbed my allen wrench and bled it. But after that and i was trying to start it is when i noticed that it wasnt coming on anymore. I'll have to check again tonight and get the multimeter on it to see if i've got power and all that. But i definitely didnt hear it anymore last night.

Little update but not much Fuel pressure gauge came in from vulcan performance. Got a mechanical isspro 0-30. Got it installed, made a huge mess of fuel trying to get it bled. Cycled the key and bumped it to start and let the lift pump run. I noticed it sounded funny while i was doing that to get the air out of the isolator. The best reading i could get was less than 2 psi. It made it to the first tick mark then a little past it. I decided to try running it. No start, no start, no start. Hooked grid heaters back up and cycled those a couple times to get it nice and warm. Still no start. Then as im about to give up for the night it started, ran like s*** for about 5 seconds and died. Couldnt get it restarted. It was at that point that i noticed i didnt hear the lift pump running anymore. Is it normal operation for it to stop running after several attempts at starting? It just seems too weird that it would coincidentally stop working as im trying to diagnose it. I didnt look into it very much it was getting down to freezing and i was cold and dinner was ready so it was a good time to give up for the day

Im not looking for this to be a weekend truck it is my daily driver.. or was until it went down. My thinking isnt really performance gains that im after i just want the truck back on the road and to not break the bank while doing it and if i can get a 029 off a bus for a couple hundred bucks and it works then great. If it doesnt work out then i'll take it as a loss and buy the correct pump and if it last for years to come then great. What im doing here is looking into what would cause it to not work from the beginning and if it will work what problems will i see and so far i cant find anything that says it absolutely wont work and i cant find anything showing that down the road i'll have melted pistons or something bad. Engine internal differences are minimal from what i've been seeing.

Hope everyone had a nice day off Pictures of the 029 pumps look as though they would plug right into the locking connector for the dodge vp. I was suggesting the use of the quadzilla as a way of making up for any performance differences between the two pumps. Im sure they are all built basically the same and have the same pinned connections. And the CM551 ecm obviously has the capability of running the SO or HO pumps. And for the CM550 i would think that they have 2 connections because the ECM is essentially running the entire vehicle as opposed to providing information to the dodge pcm for the dodge side of things. I cant imagine that bosch completely redesigned the 029s simply because they weren't going into a small truck anymore. For costs and all that i would bet they only changed internals to provide a better tune for the higher output engine. As far as internals go i found these threads here- http://www.competitiondiesel.com/forums/showthread.php?t=133306 this is is linked in the first thread but ill put it here anyways http://www.competitiondiesel.com/forums/showthread.php?t=94268&highlight=rv275&page=2

I found this interesting. https://www.turbodieselregister.com/threads/275-hp-vp44-on-my-01.145316/ Seems i wont be the first one to do this which i figured. But at least other people are having success with them. People arent calling them bus vp's or anything like that I can only find information when i search for 275hp VP44

So I've been doing some digging. The bosch number to look for is 470506029. A few websites have it listed as a RV275 motorhome injection pump. Which would be paird with obviously the RV275 injectors. Im sure paired with the ECM from a bus or RV it probably has a very good fuel map for heavy loads which would be good for towing. Now im curious. Using an SO engine, bolting an "RV275 injection pump to it, giving it bigger injectors, and using the quadzilla to dial in your tuning to adjust for built in VP timing advancement differences (im assuming for now that the timing is different anyways), would this be a possible upgrade for people to do. I wouldnt consider the motorhome/bus pumps very common or readily available but they do exist. Could it mean an easier and longer life for a pump that is set up for heavier duty use. And what about the hot rod vps. Theres obviously a way to crank these up from the SO and HO versions and are those just using "RV" parts to do that

I guess i could try it out and see what happens? Whats the worst case scenario? I would imagine it would be something similar to putting a HO pump on an SO

Or how about this- A guy in town had to close down his shop and a guy i work with knows him fairly well. He has 3 injection pumps just sitting in storage. The issue is they came out of school buses. Which leads me to believe they came out of a "marine" or RV version of the 24v. He said he'll give me one to test it and see if it works but before i throw a different pump on it i wanna make sure i wont be getting myself into anything serious or bad or hypothetically blow the engine somehow with a pump of a school bus. Edit- Talked with industrial injection. There saying the difference is in calibration. SO being an 027, HO being 028, and RV being 029. That being said, would that mean its not possible to get the RV one to work on an SO even with injectors? Would i have to change ECMs and programming and etc etc. Or am I thinking about this wrong

@04Mach1 I can agree with that. Injectors are cheap enough and I have to do a valve adjustment anyways and the gasket is starting to seep a little. If I'm doing the vp I'll have the lines off anyways. Who would be a better bet for a vp? Jasper or industrial injection. I don't want an upgraded one just a reliable one.

Oh yea definitely done it to myself before..

I can attest to the shift quality of an NV5600 with a southbend double disc. Really you just have to get used to shifting slower. Dont force it. If your having doubts about the hydraulics you can use an H bar puller to actuate the clutch fork manually. A call to south bend will also give you that information and i think it says so somewhere in the paperwork they give you with the clutch as well. We had a heck of a time trying to install a south bend in a customers truck here in the shop. Ended up going with a factory one instead but never could figure out what was wrong with the south bend one but it just flat out was not going into gear. Tried everything

To be honest @Dieselfuture ive wondered the same thing that maybe its just the pumps time to go. Its had a pretty rough last 30k miles. Tons of long cross country trips. San diego to denver and back twice, moving to arizona took about 10 trips back and forth altogether. Arizona to california to see friends and family 4 times now. Arizona to colorado. Arizona to vegas. Lots of long and hot miles through the desert. Towing an extremely loaded down trailer several times now. The last 1000 mile trip to colorado and back i was fighting p1689 symptoms and im beginning to wonder if that did any serious damage to the pump. If i get an injection pump it will be from jasper. They've got the best price i can find so far since we have an account with them it just makes sense and they have a test bench. They offer a one year warranty so if a problem was to arise with there work im sure i would see it by then. @dripley its not the actual work im worried about im worried about spending a ton of money and not fixing my problem. I see time and time again people throw an injection pump at it and they post again a month later with the same problems. I dont want to be in the position. Especially with holidays coming up. So my goal right now is to diagnose it as accurately as possible so i can avoid all that. Im really hoping the fuel pressure gauge shows up before thanksgiving so i can do that in the morning.

@04Mach1 i appreciate the input. As far as the age of the parts the only thing not original is the lift pump. VP and injectors are all original to my knowledge when i bought the truck the guy said the only parts he ever had to replace was the parking sprag because it broke on him one time. I personally change my fuel filter every july. I use the factory one since i get a discount on it. I think you might actually be the first/only one to ask the age of the parts. I have no idea how long that fass has been installed on the truck but based on the fact i already had to replace one of the lines because it had a pin hole and the other line is cracking all over i would say its been on there a while. But to the best of my knowledge it has original injectors and original vp. I might just have to have the pump bench tested. We have a commercial account with jasper through my work i bet they would be willing to test it for me we seem to do a good amount of business with them and according to the verified rebuilder page they are listed as having an 815 test bench. Am i wrong in assuming that getting a fuel pressure reading will point me in the right direction or is the only way to tell by having them all bench tested. I was under the impression that finally getting a reading on my fuel pressure would be my answer. I've had my doubts about the lift pump just not giving it enough fuel for a while now i just never got around to getting a gauge for it. as far as getting the work done myself im not afraid to do it. I consider myself to be pretty educated with all this but i've never been a professional mechanic. Just a lifetime of working on stuff. Quads, bikes, cars, tractors, semis, trucks, building my buggy etc. And i see it every day being in parts looking out in the shop how screwed up things are getting with the addition of more and more computers. Ive just not gone this far into diagnosing a diesel. I have a ton of maintenance work to do to this thing as of right now. I've got an oily mess all over the engine oil cooler. My radiator is packed with junk from the blow by hose. I need to look for the KDP. Transmission needs to be serviced. I've never had the chance to check my diffs or transfer case fluids. I need to flush out all this nasty coolant and my water pump is just barely starting to seep as of about a couple months ago. Valve cover started to seep. I need to do a valve adjustment im at 163k now. I want to do injectors anyways. And i plan on getting a quadzilla as well. So if im digging in and pulling the vp i might as well do as much of the other things i can as well. I will mention that after talking to our diesel guy in the shop he said to look and see if the turbo is leaking oil at all. I've never seen any of these turbos leak oil in fact im not sure if i've ever seen one go bad. Thats not to say that they never do obviously it just seems unlikely to me.

Update- So I'm getting the truck warmed up to leave for work. I let it idle for a minute before I hit the throttle to hold it at about 1200 rpm. Before I was ready to high idle i noticed a slight miss. So I hit the throttle and noticed it got way worse and started to put out more blue smoke. Shortly after the light came on so I scanned it and I get p0216, fuel timing error. That's the VP death code if I'm not mistaken. So I guess it's time to start shopping for a vp Edit: Gotta get fuel pressure figured out first. I've always had my doubts about the lift pump not being able to keep up and after some picture comparison i would say it is a fass pump but the real basic one with no filters or anything its just a pump. If it is my lift pump going bad i plan on getting one with filters and all that. Just would be nice to know my fuel is as clean as possible by the time it gets to the engine and vp. Probably going to be ordering a big line kit and fuel pressure gauge kit from vulcan performance here and figure out where i actually am with fuel pressure before i do anything else or waste money.

It had gauges when i bought it but they were wired in with solid wire and rather than track down the break in the wire i just took it all out. The fuel pressure gauge port had to go when my fuel like developed a pin hole. The trans temp sensor was a big block of aluminum hose clamped to the transmission line and i wasnt very happy with the way it was marring the line so i took it off too. I cant eliminate air in the lines or fuel pressure yet so i'll probably end up getting that harbor freight tester. I dont need it to be 100% accurate but it would be good to know if my lift pump is failing me or not. It is not the stock lift pump i was told its a Fass but no idea if it actually is or what size it is. Shouldnt be any air restrictions its a cone filter so im not pulling air from the fender anymore and it is dirty but it can still move air through it. I was curious about the tap wire it seemed a little too close to the "intake manifold" part of the head and when i was unplugging the rest of the edge i couldnt get it to come off so i left it. But i was wondering if the tap could have been making contact and shorting out causing this to happen. But i think that would have definitely cause a code to trip the light.

There is a code in there for the grid heater thats stored and the companion module code. Driving home yesterday from work with the edge disconnected it didnt act up at all. So it either coincidentally decided to stop acting up at the same time or the edge is at fault here.