Gregturley

@hdpwipmonkey I'll be getting the Iquad w/bt and using an Android tablet or old phone. I'm not really sure if I'll use the Quad for gauges or not, I'm pretty happy with my Autometer gauge set up, but i wasn't sure if the tune builder had to be used on a computer or if it could be done on a phone or tablet. I did download the Quad app to my phone but i haven't had much time to go through it and really learn much. I'll probably order it from DAP Monday and want to make sure i get everything at once. All I need to do is get a Quad with V2 tune loaded on it and I should be good to go correct?

Had some good luck in the last 3 weeks and I suddenly have money for a Quad and I have a few questions. I have a fuel pressure gauge in the truck already so is there any real reason to get the fuel pressure sender for the Quad? I have RV275 injectors and a stock HY35 with a spring on the waste gate and make about 28 psi max. Trans has a stock rebuild on it done about 25,000 miles ago. I'm not looking to make 500 hp or anything I just want 275-300 hp. The most important thing right now is fuel mileage. I'm getting 12.5-12.75 right now. Is there a tune on here that anyone would recommend for my combo? Is there anything I need to do before installing the Quad? Can I just put the Quad in without hooking it up to a computer or does that have to be done before use? I do not plan on the wire tap at this time. If i do it in the future i will use a Stealth Plate. Thanks for any help and please feel free to give me any advice that may be helpful in getting this thing up and running.

When i was researching fuel pumps i couldn't find a lot of reviews on the Assassin. Found more on the Fuel Boss and a lot of great reviews on GDP. One thing i did like about the Assassin is it uses aluminium pulleys. If i have problems with the plastic ones I'll look into aluminium. I also carry a spare belt and a small tool kit. I've had fuel lines off for things and haven't had to prime it. Just crank it up and it goes.

I used stock lines with 3/8 hose. No problem at all. Stock pickup in tank. I have RV275 injectors also.

18psi all the time.

I went with the Fuel Boss and no electric pump. Easy install. When putting the ends on the hoses blow the hoses out with air. Keeps little pieces of rubber from the regulator.

@015point9 you're right. I've seen posts on other forums go completely sideways because a post like mine was not taken well. After being here for about a year i didn't think that would happen. I was in no way trying to put down the @IBMobile article especially since i did not do it exactly the way he did.

@IBMobile happy to help. Thanks for the original write up. It's a simple, clean way to control the grids.

@015point9 Correct. If you go straight from the battery, fuse, switch, solenoid you'll be fine. NOTHING else electronic on the circuit. My issue was i ran off a key on wire that i had a other electronic things hooked in to and the current spike from the solenoid had a direct path to the other components. If i had used a solenoid with suppression diodes that should have protected them. My post was only to inform someone like me that wanted the grid bypass switch to work in the key on position about the possibility for damage from the solenoid. I know how i am. Sooner or later i would have left that switch on and killed my batteries.

This is what i used. Work great. Got all my led bulbs from Amazon.

@Mopar1973Man at least the damage was minor. Got the new solenoid on today at lunch and had a new volt gauge waiting on me when i got home. Time to start watching ebay for another Cool Down Timer. @IBMobileis correct. Use his solenoid the way he had it wired and you shouldn't ever have a problem. Just don't wire it up like i did! The relay i used is a NAPA Echlin ST404. Standard is SS-598. Starter relay for 03 Ford F-150.

@dave110 @IBMobile I was not paying attention when i turned off the grid switch. I didn't mean to turn it off under load. I have the switch wired to accessory power using a power buss that my volt gauge and turbo timer also share, that way i can't leave it on and kill the batteries. I never thought to check if the solenoid was diode suppressed. Just want people to be aware of it before someone fries something expensive. I lost a used $40 turbo timer and a $7 Amazon volt gauge so it doesn't hurt too bad. I like the way IBMobile came up with to control the grids but I'll be changing the solenoid before i use it again.

A couple of weeks ago i did @IBMobile grid heater bypass. Everything worked great with no issues. This morning when i went to leave for work i turned on the grids. Fired up the truck, everything normal. Turned off the toggle switch for the grid heaters while the grids were powered up. Started driving and noticed my digital volt gauge was dark. Didn't think too much of it. It was cheap and figured it just died. Shut the truck down at work and realized my turbo timer was also not working. Checked everything and both volt gauge and turbo timer are fried. Took a little to put it together but i believe a current spike from the SS-581 solenoid destroyed them. I did some research and Standard says "do not use on vehicles with a computer. Damage to the EEC WILL occur. Cars with a computer require a solenoid with suppression diodes." I looked through Standards online catalog and found SS-598. It is rated at 300 amps and used on later model Fords and Mopars that have computers. Nothing in the literature about not using on computer cars. If anyone has a BD Diesel Cool Down timer 2 for sale cheap let me know.

I got one last week from DAP. Rented the Smarty from them at the same time and it all fit in a FedEx priority bag. Arrived 2 days earlier than expected. Glad i didnt put it off longer tha i did.

Thats good to know @Mopar1973Man just wanted to be sure i wasn't going to damage anything.

Thanks. I thought it was just using a warm weather timing map but wanted to double check.

Got the high idle switch installed and was wondering about using it in MPG mode with the XZT. I read that in MPG mode the high idle switch alters timing. So does the XZT when its in the 65 hp setting. Any problems using the 2 together?

Been looking around for some kind of solenoid to pull the TV lever back when using the lock up switch. May try this. Make a bracket to attach it to pan bolts maybe, and have a small cable to hook it up to the lever that way it won't interfere with the movement of the lever when its not needed. It could be powered up when i hit the lockup switch with a relay really easy.

I am ordering a rental Smarty and high idle switch from DAP later today. Sole purpose is to enable factory high idle. It's my understanding that all i need to do is install any Smarty tune then return the truck to stock tune and I'm good to go. Is this correct?

Something I haven't seen mentioned: when replacing a compressor it is ALWAYS recommend to spin the hub (not pulley) around by hand before starting the engine. This will prevent compressor from hydro locking in the event of too much oil in the compressor. I do 8-10 turns. Some people will add total system oil capacity to the compressor during install. By doing that the compressor has way too much oil inside of it. Also when installing a new clutch cycle the AC on and off at idle 10 or so times to seat the clutch.

@pepsi71ocean Cables are good. I have done the W-T mod, made a new cable from alt to PS battery, added ground from alternator to PS battery, ground cable between the batteries, new cable from DS battery to fuse block. All new cables are 2 gauge. Will be replacing positive wire between batteries with 2/0 cable soon, needed to get a couple cable lugs, got those today. The factory one checks good, looks good but i have the 2/0 in the garage so I'll use it. All lugs are crimped and soldered. Using military style battery terminals.

@IBMobile had not seen that but have looked at DC power, PowerBastards, Mechman and a few others. Got the grid heater delete wired up yesterday. That worked perfect this a.m., temp was 51, truck fired right up and actually charged on my drive to the main road. Hoping to get past Christmas before I have to replace the alternator and think that will probably help.

@pepsi71ocean I'm doing the grid heater control in the next couple days so I shut them off when i want. I have been looking at other alternator options including a big truck alternator. Any suggestions on an alternator that puts out 275-300 amps that will work?

@Mopar1973Man Already done.

The spacer and dust shields can be left off. The thickness of the 2 won't affect anything. Dust shields are mainly there to keep water from inbound side of rotor on most cars. Some use the dust shields to direct more air to the rotor. Dodge trucks don't. Years ago (early 90's) we had police spec Camaros. One difference was the cop Camaro didn't use a dust shield on the front but the standard Camaro did. Guess chevy thought they got more airflow without them.