Steven cash

Vehicle Nickname: Steven Date Added To The Garage: 2022-01-24 Garage Link: Steven

It may be a 180*. I'll pull it out and check.

I've considered a he351cw but with the 125s I got I'm gonna go with the 62/68/12 sxe turbo. May as well use all the fuel I got. Again, thanks for the advice. While I have your attention, while I had the trans out I decided to install a fleece coolant bypass. After that my coolant temps stay at about 150-170. The colder weather probably doesn't help. Seems to be working too well. I did put the thermostat back in with a new Oring and made sure everything was perfectly clean. Is there a higher temp thermostat I can get to bring it back up to 190?

Thanks for the help guys. I'm gonna go with a 62/68/12.

Thanks for the quicl responses. I'm gonna go with a 62/68/12or14. So the question then is 12cm vs 14cm. Quicker spool vs cooler egts. This is a video of a .70 vs .83 vs .91 housing. It doesn't show each individual dyno run or egts but it does bring them all on the same graph I think 1/3 through the video. I think I'll go with a 12.

I just got a southbend dual disk installed in my truck with southbend hydraulics. After talking to some guys about injectors and reading on here and various other forums I decided to go with a set of DAP new bosch 125hp SACs. I would like to know which turbo size would be better to run for this amount of fuel. I was going to go with small twins but after my other truck got totalled, the clutch job, and buying a 1998 jeep to replace the totalled truck, I'm getting short on cash so I'm sticking with a single. Budgeting around 1,500 for turbo and downpipe. I've decided on a borg warner SX-E 57/65/12or14 61/65/14 or a 62/68/12or14. I know that I could probably go bigger with the amount of fuel I have but I'm think about driveability. Not really after a power numbers just enough air for my fuel. Any advice would be very appreciated.

I am skeptical of a 1500 being able to handle the weight as well. If I get a chance this weekend I will take pictures of my freinds 1500 this weekend and measure frame thickness. I have found a few sub 2k sc sb 1500s around here. Keep in mind I still gave my wrecked ram 2500 for the donor cummins and parts. So, I don't think I would have to get any parts for the swap except for a rad, intercooler, and other vairous parts that was damaged in the wreck. So long as I get a 1998.5 and up 1500 then everything should swap over for the most part. However I may have to weld in motor mounts and drill some new mounting holes for things here and there. But I don't know what I don't know. It is likely that I will just sell it as a whole. But a light cummins truck with 600 or so horses would be amazing. The other half is getting upset with me with the amount of time and I spend working on the flatbed. Now, if only I can find that money tree sead? I could still afford to mod my truck and not get strangled.

Should be. 2nd gen 1500, 2500, and 3500 frames are the same from my observations. Though the leaf spring perches may be different for the srw vs drw. I have compaired my 3500 drw frame my friends 2500 frame and a 1500 frame. Aside from QC vs SC, SB, vs LB, they seem same. I'll check my friends 1500 frame again to make sure.

I was thinking the same thing. I am considering a 2nd gen ram 1500 single cab shortbed. I don't need to use the truck as a truck I have a ram 3500 flatbed or use it to transport people I have a 1998 jeep cherokee. So, why not make it quick? Just swap the engine, trans, electronics, breaks, and rear axle over. I also own a 1979 f150 that could use a cummins.

I have news on the truck. The frame guy quoted 2,200 to 2,800 to repair the frame alone. On top of that I'm guessing I will need to collect 1,000 in parts or more to get the entire front end back together. More if I went with any new parts. Not to mention running around to collect the parts. I don't have nearly that much time on my hands. I just cannot justify spending thay much on an old truck that really needs other work that old trucks need. So I'm thinking either sell it as a whole or find a 2nd gen ram 2500 or 1500 that is in good shape on the exterior perferrably with a bad engine or trans so the truck would cost under 2,000 and then swap everything over. The only thing I would need is an intercooler, rad, condensor, and trans cooler. Thoughts?

I strongly agree

I'm really sorry to hear this. I lost a english mastiff to lymph node cancer. Very similar symtoms. Couldn't walk, or stand. Started to get really skinny becuase she couldn't eat. My condolences.

Thanks for the advice. I'll hook up the batteries the moment this hurricane weather clears up. I'm gonna replace every gasket I can while the front end is apart. Thoughts on a felpro gasket kit? How difficult will the oil pan gasket be to replace, do I need to lift the engine?

Me too. Hopefully scabing on a new frame piece would not require removal of the engine. It would certainly require removal of the gear box which isn't significant. @Dieselfuture, my point EXACTLY. I have been saying that for years. Frames are MENT to bend in collisions. My dad's 2010 E-250 has a ribed frame with slits cut in it to bend during a collision. It sucks but the more the vehicle crumbles the less impact you take. That is, until the engine is in your lap.... but the bumpers sure look cool. Also, the radiator got mashed into the fan. You can see where the pulley is contacting a bolt on the gear case. The dark one covered in oil, not the clean rusy one. I'm hoping this is the extent of damage to the engine. I'm gonna pull off the water pump look it over, probably pull the gear case cover off too.

My ram 2500 hit a tree head on at about 35mph. Everyone is ok and now it's time to fix the truck. All of the damage is in the driver's side front end. I got the inner and outer finder off, removed the trashed condenser, trans cooler, intercooler, and radiator. I can now see the extent of damage. The drivers side frame rail is bent and as you can see in the picture the bend gets very close to the steering gear box. There are frame alignment shops around me but I'm worried that this may not be possible to be bent back and not have any negative impact on the steering as the steerimg gear box alingment may be thrown off. I probably won't know till I get it into a shop for sure but I'd like some opinions. I will post a picture of the passenger side frame rail that is not bent for comparison. Here is the unbent passenger side frame rail.

This is a loaded question. It really dependson traffic, tuning, loads. You can't be shifting at 1700 rpms and expect to get anywhere soon in heavy traffic. I'll usually take it up to 2200 rpms in these cases. Ideally I would shift at about 1800 depending on any load I have. For havier trucks you may wanna shift closer to 2000. When I put about 2 tons in my bed the truck really likes some extra rpms, with that being said, I have found that the turbo does kick in faster when loaded. That also brings in a whole other part of the conversation, tuning. If you got say a smarty or an edge ez tuner set at position 3 then you'll find you really don't need to rev much or give much TPS to get power. If you have a quad with say a big turbo odds are you're not running very fat down low and may want to rev it over 2000 to get some acceleration and vice versa.

I have to thank you all for the invaluable help you have given me. The truck has a new Vp44 now and it runs way better than it everhas before. I just gotta get a return label printed to return my core vp44. Thank you @Mopar1973Man, @JAG1, and @trreed for the magnificent adivce. The quadzilla is awesome, I got a BD Stealth cover for it and I have now discovered the next weak link, the clutch?. Don't worry, it still drives great, just gotta keep the power level under 6.

It's a 100gph pump with the 2 stage filtering. So probably 3/8 inches.

One more question, I'm gonna buy the quadzilla fuek pressure sensor, do I need a 3/8 inch or 1/2 inch threaded T for the fitting to screw into. So a 1/2 inch to 1/2 inch fuel line to a 3/8 inch or 1/2? I hope that doesn't sound confusing.

Thank you for the help. I'll send one of them a PM.

Thanks for the tips. I have a 6 speed HO truck but in about a month I'm gonna order a compund turbo kit from Crazy Carl's and get some injectors. Should I put in an SO pump for the higher fuel volume potential? Would an SO pump last longer than an HO pump when turned up a lot?

I'll be sure to run 2 cycle then. I got the vp44 off, took a picture of the key position, replaced my leaky gaskets, I did notice that on the fuel feed lines to the injectors from the vp44 3 of the lines have some carbon deposits on the tips wereas the others are perfectly clean. The lines were pretty tight, I though that was odd. I red about the W-T mod, I will do that soon. I'm gonna go ahead and replace the cam sensor with a new cummins brand one just for piece of mind. I would like to run a compound turbo setup on this truck and was wondering so long as I'm putting on a new pump, should I put a HO or SO pump on?

I guess it's a new vp44 then? I tried running 2 stroke oil and allowing it to run on that and then try driving the truck but I keep having the same issues with the pump intermittently giving out and the blue smoke at idle. I ran amsoil anti gel additive due to the water in fuel freezing problem which I never had after I started using amsiol with lucas. Jag1 I strongly agree with the poor modern day diesel fuel lubricity. 6.0 Powerstroke guys have had a lot of injector failiures due to this. Mopar1973Man, I will take your advice with the 2 cycle oil whether I can get this old pump to work or get a new pump. Any particular brand? I have also heard of people running straight motor oil for lubricity, seems like a little much to me what's your take on it? I will order a fuel pressure guage now.

Update, I started the truck, I tried revving it cold and found that with my foot to the floor it took a solid 8 secounds for it to get past 2,500 rpm. When I do give it a quick rev while cold there is a lot of black smoke followed by blue smoke, keep in mind the quad is unplugged amd everything is stock exempt an S&B filter and 4in banks monster exhaust. The truck idles and starts perfectly and never dies down unless the throttle is pushed. I pulled the lever on the apps to rule out any loose throttle cable with the same results ( the APPS is new). Once the truck warmed up it would rev like normal but occasionally it will die down and the injection noise will get quieter when this happens the there is no large amount of smoke but if I look closely I can see a haze of blue smoke. I took it for a drive and I did get it to 5th gear about 45mph and it will accelerate like normal but die down intermittently while accelerating. The injection noise does sound louder than usual when the truck does accelerate and almost metallic which I thought was odd. It can't pull 6th gear very well at all. There is no visible smoke when driving. I made sure all grounds were good, vp44 wires are tight, cannot find any striped wires, I swapped the relay to rule that out (the relay does not get hot), checked the pump tap to make sure I did not cut through the wire that checks out fine, the airdog is pumping I can hear it, though I do not have a fuel pressure gauge. Have I missed anything?

Thank you both for the replies. I have tried disconnecting the quad to no avail. Mopar1973Man I will try that. Should I just let it idle for an hour or so? Maybe give it a few sharp revs to try and free the timing piston? I'm assuming if this fixes the problem then it's just a temporary solution. I have always ran lucas fuel additive then amsoil fuel additive in the winter. I have had my Vp starve for fuel very briefly twice, one time the fuel froze and was driving down the road then pulled over within 20 secounds, the other time the fuse to my airdog blew and I pulled over quickly after that. That was about 10k miles ago. If all else fails, fortunately, I only live one hour from thourough bred diesel. In the mean time I'll take my 01 auto 2500 cummins, it has just recently received the Edge EZ treatment ?. The left leg will thank me later after coming home from work in rush hour traffic.