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the7t7

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  1. View Advert Beans Diesel Fuel Tank Sump Great condition. Only used a few months. Seals well if you don't have any deep scratches on the bottom of your fuel tank (I did, so went with a different kind that has more clamp holes). Installs with 3" hole saw (not included). Regularly $145 new. $100 OBO Advertiser the7t7 Date 05/03/2020 Price $100.00 Category 2nd Generation Dodge Ram  
  2. Time Left: 8 months and 23 days

    • FOR SALE
    • USED

    Great condition. Only used a few months. Seals well if you don't have any deep scratches on the bottom of your fuel tank (I did, so went with a different kind that has more clamp holes). Installs with 3" hole saw (not included). Regularly $145 new. $100 OBO

    $50.00

    , Oregon

  3. I'll try the bigger spread to see what it does. I was just trying to keep smoke down in the lower psi/ higher load scenario by setting the max timing a little advance and cutting down on load timing. I bumped up to level 4 once I got level 3 close (essential no smoke except a little gray at initial low psi 30%+ throttle applications from cruise or a stop) and noticed that throttle smoke was only slightly worse and I got only slight haze under medium to hard load. Gradual acceleration still produced no smoke. So I think I'm pretty close. A couple more questions while I got a few of you looking. 1.) I have my boost scaling set to 40 (max?) because the compounds can go higher. I was wondering if I am leaving fuel on the table if say the ecm only recognizes max 35 psi, which would mean the quad would stop adding fuel there. That would leave 5/40 (12.5%) of my tap unused. Not a big thing but is my logic correct? 2.) I think I saw in some earlier quad threads that some people were setting their 0 psi at a certain point and then starting their map at a lower fuel % at 1psi. What was the purpose of this? 3.) If I was to make a tow version of my tune, what setting should I change. I was thinking of cutting back light load timing but didn't know if I needed to do more.
  4. It’s usually 0 to about 18 psi where I get smoked under heavier throttle unless I cut back the whole map to starting around 70. When I go as low as 65, I don’t have smoke anywhere. It’s still drivable there but surges a bit under light acceleration. Starting at 70, initial throttle smoke is minimal and there really isn’t any much anywhere else, so a good compromise. I’ve essentially been sorting the tuning like you've discribed. I tried finding a starting psi using the setting1 method but that only got me a range to start with. Honestly I could not tell much difference in smoke below the psi where it changed from black to gray. It was all just shades of grey below about 78 psi. I suppose doing data logs would help but I really don’t have the time to get that detailed. I will try bumping up the levels to iron out the curve a little better but I’ve got a good start now. I was just being a little ocd about smoke. Thanks for the help. At least I know I’m heading in the right direction.
  5. Thanks I’ll try the new numbers. My injectors are DAP 7x.0105 VOC. As for your other questions, I’ve only been messing with level 3 since my issues seem only to be initial smoke on medium to heavy throttle application while cruising at low psi or when accelerating from a stop. Normal or gradual acceleration generally produces no smoke through all psi settings. I was just wondering if I was missing something with regard to timing since it seems like I have some room for more fuel at lower psi (less than say 20 psi) because under steady acceleration (once turbos are caught up), I have no haze at all. However, when I do try to raise fuel below 25 psi, I get more smoke from throttle application that doesn’t really improve when I add timing. It’s peppier but smokier. It still pretty clean under gradual acceleration starting at 75 vs 70. As for the upper psi fueling, the reason I ramp up the fuel after 24-27 psi is because thats when it feels like both turbos start really working well together. No matter what fuel map or timing setting I have tried, the truck always seems to start pulling hard around 25 psi. I can go well into the 50s with my set up (I have arp head studs).
  6. I've been messing with my daily tune and have a few questions (elev 3800ft). I have a compound turbo setup with 175hp 7x011 voc injectors. I am tuning for smoke mostly. I've got most of the smoke out of my tune except for start up (I'll ask about that later) and low psi, mid to high load situations while cruising from town speeds to sub highway speeds. One thing that's a little troubling is that my current can bus fueling is way below what the tune builder suggests. I've started as high as 75, however, I get pretty decent clouds of dark drey smoke when I accelerate with more than 30-40% throttle from cruise. I've dropped the load timing down to 1* and gone as high as 17* on the 1500 max timing but its not really clean enough for me. We have a lot of roundabouts in Bend and starting at 75% blows smoke at the pedestrians accelerating into or out of the them. It's not black smoke and the truck is more responsive at that level, though. Below is my best tune at controlling smoke. I feel I could go a little higher on low psi fuel since steady throttle while cruising around and gradual accelerations produce no smoke when use a 75% starting can bus map. I just can't tune out the mid to heavy acceleration smoke dump when I need to get going at that starting point. Second question relates to cold and even warmish 1st starts of the day. I've read that the quad doesn't take over until after 1000 rpm and some throttle at a certain IAT. Has any progress been made helping the quad fuel during this scenario? I get pretty large amounts of gray smoke at start up. Its especially annoying if the truck was in the garage overnight. I try to put it in gear as quick as I can but I get that large surge/stumble that others have complained about. If its fairly cold and I try to move too soon it can die. Is there a way to fool the ecm into thinking it's warm with some sensor resistors, and switchable relays etc? Thanks. Here is my tune:
  7. Yes that’s the plan plus a bit more. My truck had fried it’s second ecm and nothing obvious was the culprit. (I have a recent post about the details). I had already done the w-t mod. So out came the wiring harness and the vp44. The pump was working but since I had to do a tappet cover gasket, the pump had to come out. I sent it to Oregon Fuel Injection to test. Ended up it had a rare issue where it had a bad chip in the psg with codes there but still continued to work. The wiring harness was fine, so I think the psg was the culprit and took out the ecm on the data link wires. While everything is apart, I’m improving the crappy factory splices in the harness and putting new connectors on all the weathered pdc and engine grounds and battery cables.
  8. Those are some good opinions and that’s what I asked for. I’m leaning towards keeping it on the engine. I don’t think the extra distance would cause any issues but I can’t be sure. Since I was just hunting down an ecm failure issue, I don’t want to add any more variables to sort through in case it doesn’t start with the new ecm and vp44 (which I’m mostly sure is the culprit since old one had a bad psg). It would add around 50 new splices that could be a source for failure. I did add some rubber bushings and some reflective insulation on back side of new ecm just to help a little with heat and vibration.
  9. Can anyone think of a reason why I shouldn’t move my ecm to inside the cab or the firewall? My engine harness is out of the truck getting improvements and I have a second wiring harness that I was using to help diagnose my ecm issue. I realized I could use the second harness to extend the length of my current one. There is room on the firewall under the brake master cylinder or in the cab under passenger dash. Only alterations besides splicing I can think of is I would have to make more twisted pairs of the water in fuel(not used) and oil pressure sensor wires since they are the shortest and exit right by ecm. There are also 2 shielded pairs (vp44 and Cummins bus). The Cummins bus (which the Quad uses) l wouldn’t have to extend. It would just end up in a different place. For the vp44 pair, I could just wire both harnesses wires end to end, and run one shield power wire to both shields. Only worry is if ecm is expecting a resistance range on that wire, since increasing the shield length would make the resistance go up. Ecm on the engine is obviously not the best place.
  10. Auto Computer Specialists finally got back to me about their diagnosis of my old ecm; which was that they couldn’t diagnose it. They said they couldn’t establish communication with the unit and therefore couldn’t help. And for that, I had to pay $150. I’m definitely annoyed at that answer. Last time they gave me a photo of the damaged area on the board. They could have done that this time, compared it to my old one, and let me know what that could mean. They could also have told me what operations any damaged area of the board dealt with. How do I know they even really did anything? Anyway, since I have a good candidate for the failed ecm in the bad chip in my vp44’s psg, I’m going to wind this thread down. I know I was going to post pics of my harness mods but I thought I would make a new post about that related to electrical and harness restoration and maybe show some differences between the 99 harness and my 98.5. I also came across an interesting alternator alternative when I took mine in to gets tested. I can post more details in the new thread but basically a local company in Redmond Oregon (Hagemeister Enterprise’s, INC) builds a 1 wire upgraded Bosch unit for these trucks that takes the PCM out of the equation. This keeps the pcm from possibly getting damaged by the alternator or one on the batteries getting overcharged. I know about Mopar1973man’s article dealing with protecting the pcm with a fuse on the blue wire. This alternator is an different approach. You put a resistor between the blue and green wires and don’t connect them to the alternator to fool the pcm into thinking it’s there. The Bosch unit is then regulated on board. You get a bump in amps to 135 and a better base unit than a rebuild (which is what I had). The pcm does a good job regulating voltage in general. I talked to another electronics guy here in bend and he said that he’s seen a guy come in with 18 year old dodge factory batteries that finally needed replacing. I’m just wary of the increasing cost of pcms a and ecms and that if they go down, your truck is down.
  11. Yes they did. However, it’s around half the price without any warranty, which would be nice to have. I think I agree about the standard pump. I’ve already got a decent tune for my injectors, I don’t really need more fuel.
  12. So I’ve never been so happy to find out something’s broke and going to cost $1500-2000. Got news back from Oregon Injection that the psg in my pump has a bad chip. It passes the flow tests and code tests but didn’t pass the psg test. So it worked but could easily be the issue that’s making my ecm’s fail. So I need a new injection pump. Since I have compounds and 200hp injectors they suggested their hot rod pump. It flows much better and has a new psg. My concern is they do have a warning on their site that says “Note: may cause minor surging or rough run at light load up to 1500 RPM if using performance injectors (above +40).” Any one have any thoughts on this or experience with a hot rod pump, injectors and quad running issues? I still want it to be daily drivable. I need to decide tomorrow. Price is reasonable compared to Bluechips performance pumps. Or should I just get a standard rebuild.
  13. ACS said they are working on my old ecm now and they should have some info for me in the next day or so. I sent my vp44 to Oregon fuel injection since they are fairly close and they are testing it. The 99 wiring harness arrived and I only had time to give it a quick look. An obvious difference is that my PDC connection is different or the 99 has 2 connectors before the PDC connector. My connector is the first pic. The 99 has the 2 connectors in 2nd and 3rd pics. Does anyone know if this is normal i.e. is the harness I was sent actually a 99. The rest looks normal. Another difference is that I have 25 wires going into my pdc and the 99 has only 20. my extra wires mostly seem to be grounds. I’ll give it a more detailed look tomorrow. I haven’t forgotten about posting pics of my harness mods. I’ve just been waiting on the 99 harness to compare it to and doing other work on the truck.
  14. I'm posting a little update since I'm still waiting on ecm diagnosis and its been a few days. I ended up removing the engine/ecm harness because it would always bother me that I didn't check it. In the interest of thoroughly checking everything, I'm also going to remove the vp44 and send it off to Oregon Injection (its one of theirs) and have them go through it, since I don't really know how many miles are on it. I'll do the tappet cover gasket at this time since its weeping a little. One of the things that make me think I have a weird early truck is that I have the 12V tappet cover with the crankcase vent on it. I do not have the crank case vent on the timing cover. I looked on the internet and couldn't really find any mention of this for 98.5s so not sure if its normal or not. On a side note, does anyone know the front crankcase breather would screw to my cover on the vp44 inspection hole? I could actually use more cranky ventilation since I have a compound turbo set up. I didn't have any leaks until I ran it on the dyno. Now I have front crank seal and tappet cover leaks. I'm thinking extra pressure from high horsepower dyno runs helped accelerate those leaks. I also noticed that I had a bunch of blow by when I did those runs when normally I don't have much. Back to wiring. I also purchased a used 99 harness that has a couple busted plugs for $120 on eBay so I can compare it to mine. I should get this next week sometime. I have noticed a few things about my wiring that's different than what the 98 manual says and what the 99 mopar1973man diagrams say. For instance, my truck originally had the PCM grounds go to one of those passenger side ground plugs and then over to the engine (through alternator harness) to the ground at the front of the engine. When I did the wt-mod, I just ended them at the passenger side battery. The 98 manual says they go over the top firewall harness, through those 3 plugs high on the drive'r side, through the PDC and down to G100 under the driver's battery. My truck has those wires but they dead end at that high firewall plug and don't continue on to the PCM that way. If anyone is interested, I can take some photos of the harness (and my splice mods) since it's all cleaned up and ready to be rewrapped. Just waiting for ebay one for comparison.
  15. Yes, they are apparently off for the holidays. I did get an email today that said they would get to it after the Holidays. I don’t know if that’s this Monday or Friday the 2nd or the next Monday. I do hope they can narrow it down for me. I did spend a bunch of hours today ohm testing every single ecm pin out to its source as well as further to common grounds and shared power sources. The cam sensor and crankcase sensor were particularly hard to get at. I didn’t check every single ccd bus connection but I did a few. I only found one bad connection. It was an ecm power connection to one of the grid heater relays. The connector itself had 40 ohms resistance through it even after I ran some sand paper inside it. The wire right after the connector showed low resistance. I’ll splice in another connector. I may even have an old solenoid connector that I can use, but if not, a ring connector will work. Probably not the source of my failed ecm. If it did anything, I believe that particular grid heater wouldn’t start. Only thing I can think of left is an intermittent short that happens while moving ie vibration or abrasion. Removing the wiring harness and going through it might find something. Not sure if I should do that or wait for for results of old ecm test. I also need to do a front crank seal so might do that while I wait for results.
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