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the7t7

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    Bend, Or

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  1. View Advert Smarty Touch Tuner with EGT and Command Module Can use "canned" tunes from the Touch or have custom tunes through command module. Essentially an MM3 tuner with a Touch screen. New price with com mod and EGT is around $1200. $600 OBO. Advertiser the7t7 Date 05/03/2020 Price $600.00 Category 2nd Generation Dodge Ram  
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  3. View Advert Fass EM-990 110 GPH Fuel Lift Pump Replaces factory pump in stock location for increased and more consistent fuel line pressure (16-18 PSI). New $190. Worked fine when I removed it. $100. Advertiser the7t7 Date 05/03/2020 Price $100.00 Category 2nd Generation Dodge Ram  
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  5. View Advert Beans Diesel Fuel Tank Sump Great condition. Only used a few months. Seals well if you don't have any deep scratches on the bottom of your fuel tank (I did, so went with a different kind that has more clamp holes). Installs with 3" hole saw (not included). Regularly $145 new. $100 OBO Advertiser the7t7 Date 05/03/2020 Price $100.00 Category 2nd Generation Dodge Ram  
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    Great condition. Only used a few months. Seals well if you don't have any deep scratches on the bottom of your fuel tank (I did, so went with a different kind that has more clamp holes). Installs with 3" hole saw (not included). Regularly $145 new. $100 OBO

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  7. View Advert iQuad WiFi receiver For use with Quadzilla Adrenaline and an iPhone as the interface. Usually $199 new. $150 OBO. Shipping is extra Advertiser the7t7 Date 05/03/2020 Price $150.00 Category 2nd Generation Dodge Ram  
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  9. I'll try the bigger spread to see what it does. I was just trying to keep smoke down in the lower psi/ higher load scenario by setting the max timing a little advance and cutting down on load timing. I bumped up to level 4 once I got level 3 close (essential no smoke except a little gray at initial low psi 30%+ throttle applications from cruise or a stop) and noticed that throttle smoke was only slightly worse and I got only slight haze under medium to hard load. Gradual acceleration still produced no smoke. So I think I'm pretty close. A couple more questions while I got a few of you looking. 1.) I have my boost scaling set to 40 (max?) because the compounds can go higher. I was wondering if I am leaving fuel on the table if say the ecm only recognizes max 35 psi, which would mean the quad would stop adding fuel there. That would leave 5/40 (12.5%) of my tap unused. Not a big thing but is my logic correct? 2.) I think I saw in some earlier quad threads that some people were setting their 0 psi at a certain point and then starting their map at a lower fuel % at 1psi. What was the purpose of this? 3.) If I was to make a tow version of my tune, what setting should I change. I was thinking of cutting back light load timing but didn't know if I needed to do more.
  10. It’s usually 0 to about 18 psi where I get smoked under heavier throttle unless I cut back the whole map to starting around 70. When I go as low as 65, I don’t have smoke anywhere. It’s still drivable there but surges a bit under light acceleration. Starting at 70, initial throttle smoke is minimal and there really isn’t any much anywhere else, so a good compromise. I’ve essentially been sorting the tuning like you've discribed. I tried finding a starting psi using the setting1 method but that only got me a range to start with. Honestly I could not tell much difference in smoke below the psi where it changed from black to gray. It was all just shades of grey below about 78 psi. I suppose doing data logs would help but I really don’t have the time to get that detailed. I will try bumping up the levels to iron out the curve a little better but I’ve got a good start now. I was just being a little ocd about smoke. Thanks for the help. At least I know I’m heading in the right direction.
  11. Thanks I’ll try the new numbers. My injectors are DAP 7x.0105 VOC. As for your other questions, I’ve only been messing with level 3 since my issues seem only to be initial smoke on medium to heavy throttle application while cruising at low psi or when accelerating from a stop. Normal or gradual acceleration generally produces no smoke through all psi settings. I was just wondering if I was missing something with regard to timing since it seems like I have some room for more fuel at lower psi (less than say 20 psi) because under steady acceleration (once turbos are caught up), I have no haze at all. However, when I do try to raise fuel below 25 psi, I get more smoke from throttle application that doesn’t really improve when I add timing. It’s peppier but smokier. It still pretty clean under gradual acceleration starting at 75 vs 70. As for the upper psi fueling, the reason I ramp up the fuel after 24-27 psi is because thats when it feels like both turbos start really working well together. No matter what fuel map or timing setting I have tried, the truck always seems to start pulling hard around 25 psi. I can go well into the 50s with my set up (I have arp head studs).
  12. I've been messing with my daily tune and have a few questions (elev 3800ft). I have a compound turbo setup with 175hp 7x011 voc injectors. I am tuning for smoke mostly. I've got most of the smoke out of my tune except for start up (I'll ask about that later) and low psi, mid to high load situations while cruising from town speeds to sub highway speeds. One thing that's a little troubling is that my current can bus fueling is way below what the tune builder suggests. I've started as high as 75, however, I get pretty decent clouds of dark drey smoke when I accelerate with more than 30-40% throttle from cruise. I've dropped the load timing down to 1* and gone as high as 17* on the 1500 max timing but its not really clean enough for me. We have a lot of roundabouts in Bend and starting at 75% blows smoke at the pedestrians accelerating into or out of the them. It's not black smoke and the truck is more responsive at that level, though. Below is my best tune at controlling smoke. I feel I could go a little higher on low psi fuel since steady throttle while cruising around and gradual accelerations produce no smoke when use a 75% starting can bus map. I just can't tune out the mid to heavy acceleration smoke dump when I need to get going at that starting point. Second question relates to cold and even warmish 1st starts of the day. I've read that the quad doesn't take over until after 1000 rpm and some throttle at a certain IAT. Has any progress been made helping the quad fuel during this scenario? I get pretty large amounts of gray smoke at start up. Its especially annoying if the truck was in the garage overnight. I try to put it in gear as quick as I can but I get that large surge/stumble that others have complained about. If its fairly cold and I try to move too soon it can die. Is there a way to fool the ecm into thinking it's warm with some sensor resistors, and switchable relays etc? Thanks. Here is my tune:
  13. Yes that’s the plan plus a bit more. My truck had fried it’s second ecm and nothing obvious was the culprit. (I have a recent post about the details). I had already done the w-t mod. So out came the wiring harness and the vp44. The pump was working but since I had to do a tappet cover gasket, the pump had to come out. I sent it to Oregon Fuel Injection to test. Ended up it had a rare issue where it had a bad chip in the psg with codes there but still continued to work. The wiring harness was fine, so I think the psg was the culprit and took out the ecm on the data link wires. While everything is apart, I’m improving the crappy factory splices in the harness and putting new connectors on all the weathered pdc and engine grounds and battery cables.
  14. Those are some good opinions and that’s what I asked for. I’m leaning towards keeping it on the engine. I don’t think the extra distance would cause any issues but I can’t be sure. Since I was just hunting down an ecm failure issue, I don’t want to add any more variables to sort through in case it doesn’t start with the new ecm and vp44 (which I’m mostly sure is the culprit since old one had a bad psg). It would add around 50 new splices that could be a source for failure. I did add some rubber bushings and some reflective insulation on back side of new ecm just to help a little with heat and vibration.
  15. Can anyone think of a reason why I shouldn’t move my ecm to inside the cab or the firewall? My engine harness is out of the truck getting improvements and I have a second wiring harness that I was using to help diagnose my ecm issue. I realized I could use the second harness to extend the length of my current one. There is room on the firewall under the brake master cylinder or in the cab under passenger dash. Only alterations besides splicing I can think of is I would have to make more twisted pairs of the water in fuel(not used) and oil pressure sensor wires since they are the shortest and exit right by ecm. There are also 2 shielded pairs (vp44 and Cummins bus). The Cummins bus (which the Quad uses) l wouldn’t have to extend. It would just end up in a different place. For the vp44 pair, I could just wire both harnesses wires end to end, and run one shield power wire to both shields. Only worry is if ecm is expecting a resistance range on that wire, since increasing the shield length would make the resistance go up. Ecm on the engine is obviously not the best place.
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