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  1. the7t7


  2. I finaly got my ECM back from ACS and it was fried. They replaced it under warranty even though they determined I had a tuner which was nice of them because I didn’t say I had one. Here is the report: Notes:your warranty has been completed (please note: your are a valued customer we have informed that shorts, tuner and no communication & tampering of our factory programming is not covered under warranty) we have covered all warranties & shipping which is not part of policy and procedure, this is our last warranty being issued. Unfortunately your module communication was killed from you trying to program injectors into the module & low voltage from trying to program the module and once recovered all data was corrupted and unable to save the module, they are very delicate units. Unfortunately you have voilated warranty policy by altering of our factory programming & are NO Longer covered under warranty,charges will apply should you need our assistance moving forward. How ever we stand behind our products and have sent you a completely different module programming has been done completely.. Our findings: ECM(engine control module).. unit was DOA (dead on arrival), based on recovery file from cummin they units communication was taken out by altering of our factory programming & low voltage from trying to program.. upon recovery data info was corrupt unit unable to save. Prior to installing repaired unit: a problem still lies in vehicle (it keeps taking out the injectors ). Battery & terminal must be changed. Make sure all parts replaced are OEM (mopar) parts are a MUST! All Problem in truck must be tended to prior to installing repaired unit ( failing to do so will result in shorting out the unit and it will not be covered under warranty.) please refer to website for warranty coverage policy and procedures. ———————— Attached are the photos they sent. As for the their report, they determined that the unit wasn’t getting enough voltage. However when I tested resistance on the supply leads and the grounds of the ecm they were fine. I had also replaced both batteries recently with AGM units. I guess I can power probe the ecm supply as Alterego says below but not sure what that means. Is this just putting 12v to the wires without the ecm hooked and checking voltage drop up or is there more to it? They also recommended that I replace the Battery terminals. Mine don’t seem to be corroded or anything. Any suggestions here?
  3. I have good power and grounds to the ECM. Less than 0.3 ohms through both power (R/wht) and ground wires (blk/tan). I did the alternator ground wire mod anyway and fused the blue wire. I’m sending my ecm back to ACS to check out. Maybe more evidence that I have a weird early 24v unless it’s specific to 98/99. My wiring is different than what was described in the ground mod articles. The B+ lead for the alternator went down through the big bundle under the injection pump back to the starter and then up the fender well to the pdc. I just cut it back at those points so I wouldn’t have to undo the whole large bundle where I can’t reach it and then ran a new wire to the aux battery. I also had a large plastic block with the alternator ground, green and blue wires molded into it. I cut that off, elongated the wires and added new terminals.
  4. Dang I wish I had seen this earlier. I spent the afternoon laying on top of the engine reworking those grounds (blk/wht). They probably aren’t the problem since they don’t ground the ecm but I thought I would do them anyway. I will be doing the Alt feed/ground mod tomorrow which I believe does ground the ecm. Removing the starter was a good idea.
  5. Thanks for the comments everyone! Looks like I will be feet up in the engine compartment today checking grounds and splices
  6. It’s probably a good idea for me to check the grounds just to be thorough. I had recently gotten both a new/reman ecm and pcm in an effort to get a Smarty with command module to work properly after having tested every wire between the pcm, ecm, and obd2 port. After getting new computers I still had the same smarty issues. My consolation for dumping so much money on computers is that at least I am starting fresh with new ones to match the mods and upgrades to my engine. Now I’m not so sure. After spending a couple months trying to sort out the smarty issue with experts on the the smarty support forum, I came to the conclusion that I had a really early 1998.5 24v that just wasn’t completely supported by smarty (which they would never admit). Both computers worked fine before I replaced them. It was just the only thing left to do. In the end, I switched to a Quadzilla setup which after switching from Dynomite injectors to DAP, worked fine until this issue. What I don’t understand is why the ecm is putting out sub optimal voltages to both the vp44 relay and the Fass lift pump relay. I’ll check as many grounds as I can find and reach but I’m not holding my breath. A bad ground it would seem to me to either cause intermittent problems or complete failure.
  7. I measured the voltage at the relay terminal in the pdc labeled “Fuel system relay”. I looked at the diagram on the relay and checked the voltage on terminals 85 and 86. 86 had continuity to ground so I assumed that 85 was the ecm signal wire. I’m assuming this relay is the injection pump relay because it’s the only one related to fuel in the pdc I could find. I had already measured the voltage on the lift pump trigger wire coming directly from the ecm earlier which was 6.5 volts. This is the wire pair that goes to the Fass relay. I swapped two other relays in this plug to check to see if it was the relay that was bad. Fass pump runs if I put 12 volts direct from battery to it (through relay plug terminal 87)
  8. Directly powering the fuel pump didn’t get the truck to start. So I hooked a tester to the fuel system relay signal wire (#1 or 85 lead) and I got 5.8 volts on key on and a little less running the starter. Shouldn’t that also be 12 volts to get the injection pump running? Does this confirm ecm as the problem? A thing else I can test?
  9. Yeah, I kind of think it may have been doing that all morning. It had trouble in the morning going into gear when it was cold. It kept cutting off so I let it warm up more than usual. I thought it was maybe my newish tune under fueling and/or not dialed in. I was just putting around town and it died once but started right up again. Now it won’t start. I’ll put some power to the pump and see if it starts tomorrow. If I have ecm issues then maybe other things will pop up when it’s running or it won’t even start with fuel pressure. I’m guessing ACS won’t warranty my ecm since I’m using a tuner?
  10. I get 6.5v no matter the ground on key on. It drops slightly as I bump the starter and then back to @6.5 v. Also no codes. I don’t even get the grid heater code I should be getting as I don’t have one. What about running a temporary relay to see if it runs? Isn’t there a relay mod for the fuel pump that doesn’t use the ecm. I remember seeing something about that in one forum or anothe.
  11. I don’t believe I have that connector. Maybe 1998 wiring harness is different than 2001. My fuel pump lead seems so come directly out of the ecm, down and then up by where the fuel filter was. When I measured the voltage at the plug, I measured the y/wh wire with the red probe and the black probe was grounded on the firewall dash metal. So I didn’t use the bl/wh wire at all. I’ll try it again with different grounding to double check.
  12. Thanks! I hope that’s all it is. I’ll have to do it tomorrow though.
  13. So I was driving around testing my new 7x.012 injectors and new quadzilla and my truck died. I tried restarting and it started right back up. Fuel pressure from my Fass seemed a little low (around 12 or or 13 psi) but otherwise everything seemed like it was working ok. I made a stop for about 20 min and when I got going again the truck died again 100 yards down the road and wouldn’t start. I noticed that the pump wasn’t cycling on key on/ starter bump so I had the truck towed back to my shop. When I tested the pump by putting 12v to it, it worked, so I replaced the relay with another but couldn’t get the pump to cycle. I then tested the ecm signal lead and I was only getting 6v at key on and nothing higher when I bumped the starter. I did notice that when I bumped the starter the voltage went to open line and then back to 6v. I don’t think 6v is enough to trip the relay. So do I have a bad ecm now? This would really suck since I just replaced it with a reman from ACS. Any thoughts?
  14. Well I installed the injectors and used your 7x012 daily tune and it worked great. Much better smoke control down low. I couldn’t really test it much as we’ve been getting dumped on here in Bend. Also can’t test it now because it died on me and I has to have it towed back to my shop. No fuel pressure. After some testing, I think it’s signal from the ecm. Fuel pump works with power and 3 different relays didn’t work so I tested the ecm lead going to the relay. It’s putting out 6v when the key is turned on so I think that’s the problem. I’m going to make another post in the 2nd gen Powertrain section.
  15. Thanks! That’s the first thing I’m going to try.
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