Killentime

So I crawled under my 99 4x4 looking at taking my exhaust off to make way for my new 4inch straight pipe and noticed at the back of the transmission where the transfer case bolts up is wet. I’m assuming the rear seal on the tranny. Should this be fixable by dropping the transfer case?

I done away with my proportioning valve. You can go to Autozone and get the rear brake line and they will ask you with or without the valve. You will have to get one of their little short brake lines that have a male end on both ends because the new line has a female end and the line to tie into is female also. It was a great improvement in braking for my truck because I don’t think my valve was working.

So a couple months ago I get in the truck and no start. Only relay clicking. So, using forums to trouble shoot my problems, I ordered Larry b’s over oversized contacts. A few weeks of working lots of overtime and rainy weekends went by and finally got decent weather to take on the job. Installed the parts and what do u know, still no start. I’ve swapped fuses and relays so that’s no the problem. Is it possible that the neutral safety switch has gone bad? All of the threads I’ve read, people say they have reverse light problems with the switch. Is this a hit or miss with the reverse lights giving it away or could I have a problem elsewhere? I’m tired of having to raise my hood to start my truck every time I go somewhere. Any help would greatly be appreciated.

That will be my setup. Is that a steady 14 or 14 at best?

14psi at wot is a pretty good improvement over the carter right? Is that with factory fuel lines or big lines? I don’t have the funds to drop 5-800 on a fass now. Just an improvement over what I’ve got now would be great

Does anybody have any input on the Napa hfp953 lift pump? My relocate and big line kit came in yesterday so I’m going to tackle that project tomorrow evening. Was thinking may as well start fresh with the whole setup and go ahead and put new pump while I’m there.

I’m thinking possibly a bad gauge also. I actually hooked up to both ports with no movement of the gauge. My truck actually has two carter pumps on it. The previous owner cut the fuel line by the tank and installed another pump there. Both pumps run so I feel that I should be getting some kind of reading anyways. I will be getting a fuel pressure gauge soon. I’ll have to order one off the internet because no local parts house has a fuel gauge above 15psi. I figure having a oil pressure gauge is better than no gauge at all. Until I can get the real deal anyways. And im not doing a tap until I can 110% for certain do it safely. It is my over all goal but I don’t have $1,500 just laying around to blow on a new ip

I’m currently waiting on vulcans lift pump relocation kit and 3/8 fuel line from the pump to the housing and also to the vp44. It should be here tomorrow or the next day. I’ll be able to use the tee for the gauge then. I have an edge comp box, without tap, at the moment. Could this setup with a carter pump be enough to tap the pump possibly? This is my first post here so don’t know why it posted my typing again. But I wonder if I got a bad gauge maybe? It hasn’t moved off zero. It’s a mechanical gauge and I have fuel at the gauge so I don’t think air is the problem

Can an oil pressure gauge be used for fuel pressure? I hooked it up to both test ports on filter housing with no readings. I cracked the line each time to get the air out and has fuel but get no readings. Can this not be done or am I doing something wrong. Thanks in advance I’m currently waiting on vulcans lift pump relocation kit and 3/8 fuel line from the pump to the housing and also to the vp44. It should be here tomorrow or the next day. I’ll be able to use the tee for the gauge then. I have an edge comp box, without tap, at the moment. Could this setup with a carter pump be enough to tap the pump possibly?