texas503

What kind of lockup device do you run? And what gears can you lockup in?

Thanks for all the input. Yes, I will be using it with the auto, but I do have a lock-up switch and can lock up in 2nd-4th. The one I am looking at is vacuum operated made by BD.

Is an exhaust brake really worth the trouble? Simply put.

Sorry for the length of time getting back.Just got back from a 1,000 + mile trip pulling a little 2 horse bumper pull trailer and have some numbers.70mph 4th gear locked 0% grade 65* ambient temp. at about 1800-1900 rpm 800* 10 PSIsame as above with 4-5% grade 900* 15-20 psiEmpty: 65 mph 65* 0% grade 650* 5-6 psiIt seems that I am getting cooler EGT since the ambient temp has gone down. It seems that I have to keep rpm up, even when empty to keep EGT lower than 800 degrees. It seems that my boost will go up to 5psi in a flash, but then will stop and EGT will go up to 800 degrees before boost will start building anymore, especially in low rpm.

Thanks for all the help. I will get some better numbers to fill in. Yes I do have a lock-up switch, and I can lock up in 2nd.

1st unlocked going up this particular hill just after a switch back, very rough gravel road, around 1900 rpm. Boost was at about 15 PSI.This may be a stupid question, but would moving the fuel plate back cause a little higher injection pressures, sooner, thus helping atomization of fuel and helping bring boost up sooner, creating cooler EGT, especially down low? And would it increase fuel milage? Mopar man would always say hooking up the fuel with an Edge Comp box helped him get better milage.

HX 35 turboDid some pulling last weekend, 16 foot GN with 4 horses, firewood, hay and some gear. As long as I kept the RPM around 2000 EGT were O.K. about 800 degrees or so. As I dropped it into OD in Lock-up, EGT would climb pretty good if going up hill. There was a decent grade on the FS road, but I had it in 1st climbing about 5-10mph and EGT were up to about 900 degrees. Pulled well though.

Does anyone know if these problems I am having could be related to accidently getting 155* marine injectors as opposed to the 145* injectors I was supposed to get. Did some towing yesterday, about 6k lbs. I was running 700-900 degrees running 55-60 on the flats. Once I hit a hill, it would climb to 1,000 which I wouldn't let it get over. I was really only running 15 PSI boost at that. Alittle disappointing.

Well I checked the valves, some of the exhaust valves were a little tight though, don't know if that would make a difference. I did not adjust anything tonight, just ran out of time. I was confused a little by your easy way of adjusting valves, by reading your write-up things were not working like I thought they should, but after realizing that you were turning the engine the correct direction and I was turning it backwards with the alternator, I realized my mistake. Would you recommend setting them, when I have time, to 0.018 and 0.008? Seems like you said that would spool better. Also, I was thinking, if the exhaust valves were too tight, would that cause them to open a little too soon, thus decreasing burn time and power and increasing EGT? Or does the cam prevent that?

Well thanks for all the help, I have to run the truck pretty extensively for the next month or so, after that I will check valves and maybe pull the injectors and have them all pop tested. I will let you know. Valves aren't hard to do are they? I have done a 24 valve but not a 12 valve. Maybe I should check your videos. Will let you know.Thanks

I don't know, but my 12 valve's turbo is alot quieter than my 24 valve was.

In all honesty I did not ask them how they did it, I am assuming they used the timing to locate stock timing. I can call them. I know the previous owner installed a 3gsk, could he have installed it wrong, causing this issue?

Well I had timing reset, but EGT are about the same. I have better low end power and a little better boost on the low end. Idle sound is a lot smoother and starting is easier. EGT will still rise 100 degrees while cruising without boost changing at all.I am happier with truck now even though EGT are still high and power isn't what I had hoped.

Well thanks for the help, I will let you know how it turns out. I had not thought about too far advanced timing actually causing the engine to work harder at low RPM, makes sense though.Thanks again.

Well in my defense, it does run O.K., but I guess it takes quite a bit to make a cummins run badly.The damper was marked before the timing light guys checked it, so they just used that.Why would advanced timing cause high EGT's? Is is just because it can not build the correct amount of boost. I am going to have timing reset to stock which is, I believe 14 degrees if I am reading it right on the badge. I won't be able to do it until next week, will let you know.I thought you were running 14.5 degrees of timing, and I now see 13.5. Is that right?Thanks

The issues I had after the timing change were not huge, but noticable. White smoke at idle. Greyish smoke when getting on it.Harder starting cold, even like 50 degrees, truck would try to die just after starting. (This has improved somewhat with new injectors.)Lack of low end power, and I had not started tinkering with starwheel before timing change, so power difference might be even bigger if I had. (Has improved somewhat with new injectors.)Engine is alot louder, does not have the smooth 12 valve sound. Has a valve rattle sort of sound.Exhaust (unburnt fuel) smell in the cab when parked idling, or at a red light. If I put my nose right to the exhaust at idle it kind of burns my nose and eyes with the unburnt fuel, I don't know if that is normal- wasn't with my 24 valve.I did seem to get more top end boost after the timing change, but looking back at it, the negatives have not been worth it. The only reason I did it was, with the 24 valve, the "timing box" that I had on it made a huge difference in power, but I now know it is like comparing apples to oranges. I did not gain any real power that I could tell, and did not improve fuel mileage noticeably.I just checked the brakes, no drag what so ever.

Truck rolls too easily to have a brake dragging, although I will check each wheel. I will suggest some hypothetical reasons for my problems and tell me if I am crazy. I will also try to load a cruising video, not on a hill.Exhaust turbine is damaged in turbo, causing it not to spool very well unless large amounts of heat/exhaust flow hit it. Intake turbine seems fine with little to no end play.New injector/s is bad, not creating an effective spray pattern/ dribbling fuel. ( in my 24 valve I had a bad injector/s that caused huge amounts of black smoke under load, no power, and no boost- changed injectors and vast improvement in power and milage) is my reasoning behind thisCould the fuel plate being all the way back be doing something causing load?Could exhaust manifold be plugged?Could timing being too high/low cause this? I seem to have had several issues after timing change, could too much timing cause high EGT. I may be paranoid, but I requested the timing change at the diesel shop to 15 degrees, when I got my ticket it said "incease timing 15 degrees per customer request", I questioned the shop manager about this and he said it was only taken to 15 degrees. I then had the timing checked at another shop who checked it with timing light attached to the #1 injector line, they never pulled the injection lines, they said it was at 15 degrees. The truck does have a lope when dropped into gear when cold, no lope once warmed up just a little.Could valve lash being out cause this?You were pushing like 2 psi at 500 degrees, I don't build practically any boost until 600 degrees. I can also be running along at 55 at 600 degrees with 4 PSI, hit a small hill, go up to 700 degrees and not have boost change at all. What do I need to take loose to see the exhaust turbine to inspect it?Sorry about dragging this on, but I really appreciate the insight.

Unloaded I am getting about 18-20 mpg. It starts O.K. in the morning with little to no haze. It idles a little low around 500rpm when first started, but I have the idle set at about 900 rpm due to the torque converter I have pulls it down alot. As far as starting when it is cold, it hasn't been cold here yet since the injector change. Before the injector change you helped me with a lack of low end power and haze problem, and it was hard to start when it was cold with the old injectors. Since the new injectors, the low end power is better, but not great, but I do have high EGTs. I don't remember what EGTs were with the old injectors, partly because I really didn't have a enough low end power to pull something like that. Also some of the old injector issues began after timing was changed. So I am kind of at a loss. I should have just left it alone. This is how the truck is set up, except for a full replacement ranch hand bumper that weighs about 250 lbs or so. Thanks

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E3_U91mdObU&feature=youtu.be http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-qHkJOkrqk4&feature=youtu.be Both videos were done today driving up same 6-7% grade, I believe lowest speed was 35mph and I leveled off at 45 in the videos. 45mph I was turning about 1500 rpm or a little more. Hope this helps.Thanks

Well it was track bar. Thanks for the help.

Well you were right, checked wastegate and plugged it off. Gate was closed hard with no pressure, and plugging it off did little to no change.The truck was a Cali. truck with egr, but it does have a normal intake horn, the exhaust manifold has been capped off. Do you know if the Cali. exhaust manifold might have a restriction? Will be getting video this weekend.Thanks

Thinking about it more and more I think I have a wastegate issue. What is the best way of checking this? I think it may be opening at around 4 psi, or maybe it is staying cracked open partially. I can make 4 psi of pressure easily, after that egt get much hotter and harder to build boost. I am going to try plugging the wastegate line first.

I know video will help, but it will probably be late in the week before I can get it. ThanksI did another boost test last night, but didn't find any leaks. Thanks

I do have another observation. See if this makes sense. If I really get on it, say near WOT, EGT don't really pass 1000 degrees, but boost comes up to around 30psi. It seems as if I am just taking it easy getting up to speed or climbing a hill EGT climbs much faster than if I am tearing around, which doesn't happen often. I think the EGT issue is more a, not building boost soon enough, issue. Does that make any sense? I noticed last night as I was driving home from work that doing about 55-60 EGT would go from 600-700 without hardly changing any boost pressure. Could a leak in the exhaust manifold do this? I will see what I can do about a video.

Just looked at road grade and it was a 7 mile climb of 6-7 %. - - - Updated - - - It smokes if I get on it but clears quickly. It just seems as though it takes a bit to get the truck moving. How hard is it to put a video on here? I might could do that to help, if it is not too complicated.