Puller810

Thanks, just got a call from SIA. I'm gonna send it to them as they actually take the PCM, make sure its repairable and fix it then charge you when its finished with a maximum charge of $250.

Wipers work fine, its the wiper solvent that doesn't work. Brand new motor, that works if you hot wire it so maybe the switch in the control knob because there is no power to the motor when you push the lever in. What controls the cruise control then?

No time zone difference, I can't send it to a place that wants me to pay first, I mean you would have my pcm if I didn't pay. Just got an email from ACS stating they need me to trouble shoot it, send codes. I'm not sure what kind've business they run but it seems like a scam. If you run a computer repair business, I would hope you have the proper equipment to test the computers your working on, otherwise how do you know its working properly after you fix it? Another huge flag is, no one will answer the phone or return a call.

I sent an email to them, thanks. They are much closer to me. Finally received an email from ACS, asked for serial number (which I sent) and codes? Will a PCM throw a code for the no charge problem? It isn't supplying 12volt power to the alt or tranny relay, no beuno!

Are they both controlled by the pcm? What about the pwr mirrors?

Are they still in business? Tried calling twice and left messages, Friday and Monday. I also emailed them, does anyone have a better number that actually goes to the business not a automated answering service?

Are they both controlled by the pcm? What about the power mirrors? Please delete wrong section Please delete

Anyone try to get a hold of them lately? I called and left 2 messages over the last two days and also emailed? Is there a better phone number? Please delete wrong section

Yup, I loved my 02 with a nv5600 and all three of my 3rd gens had g56's. Not real concerned with the converter staying locked for 3-4 shift. I manually lock it now in 3rd and let it shift locked. It's firm but not terrible. I do have a billet input though. Never heard of them. I'll call and talk to them. Thanks.

I posted my problems in my other post "bought a bit of a basket case" I so wish there was an hptuners for these trucks. Looking at options right now. I've ran the quick 4 tranny controllers for 4l80's in Cummins swaps and absolutely loved the tunability. I just want to program how and when the conv. locks, when it shifts into O.D. and when it unlocks the conv.

Anyone ever run one? Does it work as advertised? As I read you can command it to lock and stay locked from drive to OD (2nd if you have a modded valve body). Kind've tired of the factory pcm tranny control and fighting with lockup issues. Thoughts?

Little update, built a tune for the truck using some base settings from Quadzilla. Drivability is much nicer. The lock/unlock thing is still there however it's not near as bad so we've made some headway. Gonna try an apps relearn this weekend otherwise I'm not sure where to go from here. Fixed a bunch of little thingsfuel leak from the fp sensor (Teflon tape works wonders), new brake line that was too long so they had it wrapped around the axle tube lol,traded the bro wheels off for some 4th gen rims on 315's (drives way better), got rid of the stacks in favor of 4" all the way back, new headlights, new washer fluid tank (it didn't have one), all kinds of little stuff.

Well, I'll have to order a cable I suppose.

My Adrenaline box has the V2 2.7 beta software. My tune pages look much different than the standard V2 (more detailed it seems). Can I update to the newest software without a cable and computer? I'd love to run some of these tunes I see but the iPod the beta software is on won't connect to the internet anymore. I wrote a basic tune using Quadzillas website as a guide. It works better than the crazy tune that was in it which you can't look at settings. If you select the arrow to make changes it boots you out of IQuad. Thoughts?

Thanks, I'll probably check the tranny pressures in a couple weeks when time allows. I will do a fluid change and swap to Ford type F as the article says and see if that helps. Also on the the iquad gauges my tranny temp show 255-262 all the time. Will a bad trans temp sensor cause any of my issues?

Got both sides done, retested voltage drop and its great now. The converter lock works however very light throttle it will unlock which seems like its in the tune. The throttle is very touchy for power delivery. I have know idea on the tune through I-quad as it doesn't tell me whats in there when I connect? I'd like to put a tune that's not so touchy and has a more linear pull. I think it would help the tq converter lock\unlock as it takes very little throttle input to maintain 55-60 mph. I'm reading up on the Iquad stuff, I used to hptuners, motec and bigstuff for turbo gas stuff so it shouldn't take long to have a general understanding. The bad news is I think my converter is shot, I also installed a lock up switch and I can drive through the converter fairly easy. You can feel it trying to hold on but she's toast I believe. Still getting the the voltage gauge drop to 8 after the trucks been running for a few minutes so I'm pretty sure the pcm is shot.

So I was able to squeeze an hour in the shop tonight after supper. Buddy of mine had an internally regulated alternator we could throw on mine to use until I figure out why my lock/unlock problem. The computer regulated alternator was charging at 12.4-13 volts and occasionally not at all. This is my winter/work truck that sees 130 miles a day so I didn't want to chance losing my lights. I also made and installed the passenger side ground wire. Hopefully we only work 10 hours tomorrow and I can get the driver's side done.

I'll put new grounds on this week sometime and report back. Yes, with engine cranking. .3 and .2 bouncing to .3 on driver side. Checking from battery to ground at the block.

I haven't as the alternator isn't charging. I'll do it tomorrow though. I did recheck the blue wire on the alternator (12V constant) and it doesn't have 12 volt now. Which also, according to the schematic feeds the trans relay (86 lead on the relay has no 12V either). I did find something odd on the trans relay. The previous owner had bent the ground leg of the relay over and ran a seperate ground to the fender instead of through the fuse panel? Ever heard of that? Best way to test the ground circuit on the under hood fuse panel?

.03 volt drop max so I think that is acceptable.

Okay I finished the W-T mod. No change in the lock up\unlock converter deal. Any thoughts would be great. Gonna do a cable voltage drop in a few minutes.

I haven't done the w&t mod yet but thats next today as I worked a ton this week. Also on the W-T mod you disconnect the alt wire from the PDC correct and there is nothing to replace it? It doesn't specify and wasn't sure.

Who are you guys using? Lost 4wd amongst my electrical issues lol. I think I have a broken shift fork, but at 240k it's time to take a look anyway.

Thanks! I'll start checking these things this evening.

I ran Detroit true Trac in my jeep that was daily driven. They worked great most of the time however it is not a locker and can still give you one wheel peel in certain situations. If money isn't a concern it is very hard to beat an air locker like Arb or Yukon, Eaton also makes an electric locker. I have no experience with e-lockers so I can't comment. Selectible lockers are the best of both worlds, open diff on the road and at the flip of a switch 100% power to both wheels.