Nutter

I also want to know how hard this is and which EB to get? This was not my plan, but an hour of reading and I'm sold. Now on to research...

Interested in this thread and can't find a better one for brake upgrade questions. 2001 dually 6 SPD manual and second set of brakes at 100k miles. 90k miles of horse trailer or 5th wheel. Need better brakes. Not buying new rim's. Truck is all stock except for fass pump. Best route?

He had others that were reman but for my (mis-spoke earlier and said used) reman from Industrial Injection i was out $1,080 after core return of $400. But this one he said was new. He said his new is only ever Bosch or Duralast (AZ brand). Unsure how true. That DAP is $100 cheaper than my Industrial Injection from DieselPowerProducts.com but mine had a 2 year warranty. I guess we know what a year of warranty is worth.

Duralast DL 2617 this is the regular price, dude said commercial was $500 cheaper, with three year warranty. He was trying to sell me after I bought from diesel power products used and cheaper with 2 year warranty.

No link but you have to get it under commercial price. Dude here has car clubs under commercial pricing. He did get me a receipt with part number. I'll figure out how to take a pic and post it.

I put pump to ECM as if I just had an extension harness with original connector. Right now it's ghetto, but I'll redo it when I remove all of the FASS wiring and make it a little more perm. EDIT: I spoke to FASS this morning. They acknowledge my issue and concerns and apologized for not doing so sooner. Too bad i didn't remember who i spoke to before. The guy i spoke to this morning says because so many of these gen dodges have ECM reference issues, my stock truck with no issues is rare (unfounded). They're actually in process of researching a resistor kit for the old connector that will fool the ECM into thinking there is a pump there. Not ideal. They also told me that the emergency breaker in the event of an accident should cut power to the ignition solving that problem. I asked them to just create the kit with the harness connector, then if ECM issues present because reference is lost, provide secondary instructions for hardwire since apparently that's been their backup solution for years.

I know it's not fancy diesel shop but Auto Zone sells brand new (not reman) VP for $1600 and $550 core under commercial program. 3 yr warranty too.

Turns out my paperwork that says '01 245hp 6-speed has to have 4.10 is dumb. I heard somewhere there is a sticker in the glove box that little elves just put there last night because it's never been there before and it says I have 3.55 which explains my 2k rpm at 72 mph with stock size 235's on my 2wd. Always bought off the door sticker.

Update: I decided I had the time tonight, cold and dark as it is and that I was not going to be a wussy and wait for daylight during the weekend. Funny story: Cut the harness from the pump and the connector from the ECM. Hardwired the two together. Cleared code. Ignition on, no code. Pump on half second. Bump start pump on 25 seconds. Start truck, pump is on. Ignition off, pump is off. No code. Funny right? FASS is going to get some words tomorrow and reviews updated and the diesel parts powerhouses are going to get some reviews and phone calls as well. I'mglad you guys exist.

According to my paperwork, in 2001, the 1st year of the HO (245 hp; VIN 7) could only be equipped with a 6-speed and 4.10. I've never physically inspected or measured, but that's what the paperwork says. it's also 2WD.

I also have a 2001 3500 dually, 6-speed with 4.10 and have 235's on it. I rarely go over 1600 rpms, I'm in 6th by 40 mph around town, and get 18-20 mpg or 450-500 mi per tank. On the highway empty I hit 2k rpms at 72 mph. Keeping it at 65 I'll get 700 miles on the tank or close to 25 mpg. This is before the FASS I added 2 weeks ago, otherwise all stock.

My weekend project will be to verify voltage and ground, then to add a connector to my FASS harness and go with the suggested wiring solutions here. Does anyone know the size/type of connector? looking at the manual, it appears to be 18 gauge, 2-pin...1.5mm? This could be interesting since my truck will be in service for the weekend, at my daughter's rodeo. Since my second job is Taekwondo tournaments, my third job is Rodeo and Gymkhana and my fourth job is Parkour, my projects are traveling or late at night (I'm 1.5 hrs from civilization). I can actually see the future, which is in between horse events, after cutting everything, realizing that i can't actually put anything back together because the one tool i need is at home i will then drive the duramax 3 hours home, then 3 hours back, miss half of the 1st day of rodeo, upset my daughter, piss off my wife and burn a lot of fuel. You'd think the awareness of this would prevent it.

A Nutter Update: Spoke to FASS today regarding the instructions and bypassing the ECM, leaving ignition on as source for pump operation direct from battery. Brought up safety (always on) and ECM and codes, etc. Responses: 1. Difference in instructions - Some high percentage of troubleshooting calls were related pump and harness wiring and codes. Follow-ups (they asked me to follow up also) attributed the majority of those problems to faulty ECM's and/or truck side wiring issues or situations where the ECM wasn't handling the pump correctlyl (unsure of what this meant, i accepted it). This new setup bypasses those issues altogether. 2. My current P0230 - An unconnected connector should not throw a code because the ECM won't read that it's there (versus circuit problem). If i'm throwing a code it's likely an ECM problem or I somehow got fuel or water in the connector before taping it up (although i'm pretty sure i measured correctly for hot voltage and ground resistance in troubleshooting). 3. Overpressurizing VP44 - shouldn't be an issue because FASS returns excess fuel to tank and if the VP can handle it's 18 psi or whatever it's pumping during operation, it can handle it during warming/cranking, in addition to pressure relief valve sending back to tank as well. 4. Safety of always on fuel pump - Turn it off if you're in an accident and not dead. If you are dead and your family is alive, prepare a California compliant sticker for plain view sighting of all seats in the truck that instructs each person in the vehicle on how to properly negotiate a dead body to the ignition and turn the key to the off position. Use of demonstration techniques prior vehicle ignition and safety cards is highly recommended. OK - Number 4 was embelished a little but basically, they said it's all part of the plan. The person who justified their existence, reduced the number of troubleshooting calls dramatically and my ECM is suspect. Did not get the name of the person i spoke to.

When I get on the phone with FASS tomorrow I'll ask these questions. Would be interested in a Dodge response if anyone knows a Dodge engineer. I'll be sure to post answers. I'mguessing I'm the first since the instructions were updated just a month ago, and the cutoff is 2 months ago.

Yes, you nailed it. I see the old instructions for the manufacture date of pump before October, describes what people are saying. I had called them on this, they asked for my pump mfg date, 12/18 and they said use the one you reference. I will call again and verify given the situation. It would seem everyone from now on will get a code. It occurred to me during the drive with my trailer and 8 hours of kid activities.... duh. no voltage on that circuit is a dead pump to the ECM. Okie dokie sillie Okie y'all...I'm an idiot. I appreciate you guys and your knowledge base. The Duramax forum is a different group for sure.

The FASS instructions said ground to battery, associated red to battery. Then a hot lead that went to ignition fuze spot. Otherwise connector to pump and that's all. Re: IBMobile, here are my thoughts in order: 1. Funny, FASS must suck 2. No problem, I'm a guy and never have accidents 3. Wait, I live in California, there should be 6 stickers and 8 approvals for me to have this 4. Shoot, he/she is right Thanks for the instructions and wiring advice. I'm calling FASS with this tidbit. Wouldn't this be the same as buying the pump relocation harness or just cutting the end off the original and splicing in?

I do have a relay, but it's just inline between the battery and pump. The old circuit is not involved whatsoever. The other fuzed lead is coming from the ignition fuze in the panel. Followed FASS instructions to a T. Except for the part where they tell you to connect the lead before they tell you to run it through the firewall. So I cut it and reconnected. I guess the easy answer is to check the relay anyway, even though it's new, and to check the ground from the old pump circuit which is going from splice 164 or something. Heading out of town now on the assumption that mechanically and electrically I am fine and the error can't possibly be related to a functional issue. Does anyone know the origin of the P0230? Does it literally originate on wrong voltage from ECM at only that circuit? If so, I'm good. If not, I might be screwed.

I've been reading up on every topic remotely close to the VP44 and fuel system for the last month. Lost my lift pump and sender unit same time which apparently blew my VP. So...100% stock 2001 6-speed...buy a new VP and decide on a FASS Titanium95. I read all the reviews but frankly the horse trailers and 5th wheels aren't a problem in these desert mountains (digression). Have FSM, did install last weekend of both. Removed old filter canister and bracket (no going back, I shaved the bolts to match the others with no bracket) and removed old pump. Fuel line is just hanging. Taped and sealed each of the three connectors, then taped them together, then zip tied to the ECM harness. FASS is battery and ignition fuze, so in my head, after reading all W-T and Moparman posts, I'm thinking my current lift pump has ZERO to do with the ECM. WTF? I popped a p0230 during bleeding. Ok...maybe a hold over, so I clear codes. It's late, it goes away, I shut the old lady down. Start up in the morning and code comes back. Eff me. Maybe I didn't clear properly, do the drive to reset over a couple of days but...that night after work and multiple trips trying to get it to reset, CEL goes off. Sweet! Nope. First start in the morning CEL stays on before Wait to Start goes off. Eff me. Start reading more from you guys about loose grounds...can't find any. Stop in to Auto zone to talk to local genius and make sure my code clear was legit, start it up for him and no CEL. SERIOUSLY? Any help here would help me sleep this weekend while I'm out of town with this same truck after my code shows up again at 7am. Edit: I checked the ohm tests mentioned in other posts before this fiasco with just the lift pump...but not after the repairs.