RebelsPayback

1999 stock 24 valve Cummins. 2wd. Over 350k on it, when purchased in 2011 I was told some work had been on the transmission, but not sure what (it had 278k at that time). We live on good 'ole Monteagle mountain, and this truck's main purpose in life is hauling a horse trailer. I don't need anything fancy, just dependable. About a year ago, while hauling the horse trailer on the interstate it shifted funny a few times, and the engine felt like it got bogged down. No biggie, maybe bad fuel or something? Drove fine for months. Randomly, the odometer/speedometer, and port where my ScanGauge plugs in quit working About 6 months ago, the truck quits going into second gear without help. You'd have to speed up, then let off the fuel pedal for it to switch into second gear About 2 months ago, now second gear will only engage about 1/50 times, and tends to slip into second better when the truck has been driven awhile. About 1 month ago we changed the transmission fluid, and lo and behold, the little pot metal "wedge" was broken. We don't see anything wrong otherwise, so we put in a new filter and new fluids and nothing changes. We've driven the truck hundreds of miles during the last year, and it drive fine other than shifting hard from 1st to 3rd. We've researched, read a bunch of articles, watched Youtube videos, etc. Every "quick fix" seems to be a short term fix, and I don't want to be stranded on the side of I24 with horses... The local "best around" transmission guys have had me on their wait list for weeks - and they are quoting $1,800-2,000 for a rebuild with all new parts and 12 month/12,000 warranty. This truck is old, but in very solid shape otherwise and we want to keep "Dan the Dodge Diesel" around for a long time, so we're willing to spend the funds to fix the transmission. My husband is good at mechanical stuff, but isn't willing to rebuild an automatic (he could replace no problem), although we don't have much free time and won't for several more months... I would appreciate any insight, or feedback on what is going on. Whether it be some mechanical issue to check out, or what transmission to replace the existing one with. We have found several inexpensive rebuilt ones, but were unsure of the quality. Also, I'm located in Middle TN, so if you have a trustworthy shop in the Chattanooga or Murfreesboro area, I'd love to hear it.

I have 2 filters. In-line filter by the FASS95 (little bitty one) and then standard fuel filter. Both Baldwin brand. I change the little in-line filter pretty often, there is always lots of small black chunks.

My tires are about ready to go.. ~20% tread, on re-treaded MT's... I drive ~20k a year, pulling a horse trailer for a good part of that. Female driver, yadda yadda, I want to be safe.Local auto parts has a set of 4 new Rodo (sp?) tires, garanteed for 80k miles for $600. They are Street tires with a smidgen extra grip (and they don't look totally sissy ;-) )I can get a set of 4 ~50% tread used tires for $100. Another $40 to install/balance.I need to do a front end alignment on my truck.. Money is tight, but in a couple weeks I can fork out $800 for new tires/alignment/installation, etc. Or I can do the used tires through the winter (I was thinking of getting really grippy tires), then get new ones + all the alignment stuff.I don't know what is best, I get much varying opions of what I should do..Help please!!

Turns out it was a fuse. The I.O.D one.Put a new 10 amp fuse. Blew it again.I replaced it with a 30 amp and the mirrors along with everything else is working.. The mirrors shouldn't have cauesd that problem but oh well.My "wait to start" light bulb must have blown.. Parts guy said it's not worth pulling the dash apart to replace it...I still find it very, very odd I don't hear my fuel pump. FASS told me to check the pressure at the pump, that even if it was not working it would free-flow... I'm getting normal PSI, so I guess I'm not going to worry about it.Thanks everyone!

Kinda of a long story.Changed my fuel filters yesterday. I noticed when I was trying to "prime" the canister that my fuel pump wasn't running.... At all. Finally got the truck started.Prior to changing the filters yesterday, it took about 7 seconds to start the truck. You just HAD to wait that long or it WOULD NOT start. The pump would run for a second, then it would start right up. NOW it'll start immeadiatly. Even after sitting all night in the cool air it starts in about 2 seconds.Last night I installed 1 new rear view mirror (from mickey mouse to towing). Installed fine, tried to see if the power part worked. It worked for about 4 seconds then quit. Along with my radio and dome lights. No fuses have blown that I have checked so far.My "wait to start" light doesn't show up on the dash anymore (at all).I don't think my FASS 95 is working, if it is I don't hear it like I used to.My Scanguage, worked fine prior to adding the rear view mirror, now doesn't work at all...One negative battery cable was super loose, I fixed that and it didn't help anything.Truck runs just fine. My fuel pressure is steady too.HELP!

Dripley - I don't understand where the needle valve is located at. What part of the fuel line? I'm doing this install by myself, so the more info the better.Thanks for the rest of the info Dripley! Very helpful.

I've been running 2-stroke since last summer. It does up my MPG by ~2. I have a gallon of winterizer opti-lube I'm using up, it's supposed to help lubricity and improve MPG, but I still think the 2-stroke does a better job..thanks for the info!

My FP sending unit went bad. I have a new one (still Glowsh!t)... I was told by Glowshift to mount the sending unit about a foot away and to use some sort of metal tubing. And then I was reading on here about a needle valve. Can someone put what I need to do in layman's terms? Also, I'm about to (finally) install my boost gauge. I am planning on drilling and tapping the boost elbow - is there a simpler/better place to put it?Lastly, I'd like to increase my MPG a little. I am planning on getting a BHAF with a filterguard, and doing something to the exhaust. A friend recommended straight piping it... ??Thanks in advance for all the help!

FWIW: I use Baldwin. I was able to buy a 2 year's supply online pretty cheap. I did a little research, and Baldwin (along with Fleetguard and another I can't remember) seemed to be the common top of the line filters. I used Baldwin fuel filters too.

I will be doing it right this go 'round! I'll probably be back with questions on how to do it - since I'm probably doing it myself.Thanks!

I got the email reply to this, and I forgot to get back here to say thank you! Sounds like that's the answer.

I have a FASS 95 with 3/8" (I believe) fuel lines.Fuel filters (inline and main filter) replaced about 5k ago.Last week, my fuel pressure started reading 30+. My gauge only reads to 30. As long as I'm pressing the gas, I get a normal reading (15-18, ~14 WOT). When I start the truck, the pressure has always spiked to 30+ for a second, then came right back to 18. It's just now STAYING at 30+..Called FASS and got instructions on how to take the pump apart and check the ball and spring. I'm in the process of finding a mechanic or someone to help me because I'm not sure I can handle it by myself. I also need to check that my gauge is working (It is a GlowShift...) but I can't check that untill Monday...Any ideas?PS: About 3 months ago, it would randomly spike to like 25, then come back to down to 18 PSI. It did that pretty often for a week, then quit...This fuel pressure thing is driving me crazy.:banghead:

It's a V8, like I said earlier..I decided not to mess with the alternator - I'd rather buy a new one with a warranty if/when mine goes out.Forgot to mention the '94 is a standard cab with a 8' bed, mine is a extended cab with a 6 1/2' bed. Sounds like I got the good out of the scrap truck already. Thanks!

Scrap yard has a '94 Dodge 2500, 4x4, V8 (transmission doesn't work, no wheels). I have a '99 dodge 2500, 2x4 with a 24 valve. What will transfer to my truck? I'm getting the parts dirt cheap.I've already gotten:rear-view mirrorsheadlightshood & grillebrake boxfloor mats ()My dad thinks the alternator will swap out from that truck to mine - what I've found online so far says no.Thanks in advance!