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Test the system with A/C control set on A/C dash vents and not on A/C MAX dash vents and fan speed #3. You will see your low and high side pressures come up. Example: Air temp 78°F, with fan speed set at #3, A/C control set at MAX dash vents(recirculate air), engine at idle, the low pressure side would go down to 19 psi and the compressor turn off, the pressure climb to 38 psi and the compressor turned on. The high side never went above 165 psi. Vent temp was 38°F. With fan speed at #3 and A/C control set at A/C dash vents (out side air), the low side pressure stayed at 29 psi and the high side pressure stayed at 190 psi with no cycling. Vent temp was 42°F.

Best done with the manifold gauges. Start vehicle, take pressure and duct temp readings. Open low side port very slowly and only slightly to discharge refrigerant. After short time (1-2 minutes) close port and check readings. Repeat until there is a drop in high side pressure of about 10-15 psi. This number is contingent upon how much the system was over filled. The greater the over fill, the higher the pressure, the more of a pressure drop you need. If temp goes down the system was over filled. If not you have other problems. The easiest thing to check is the blend door not seated with heat coming from the heater core.

With only 89k on the clock, my driveway queen has full coverage also.

The blend door not closing all the way. The screen on the orifice tube dirty causing a restriction. Flow of air over condenser blocked ( not only the fins on the condenser need to be clean but also the intercooler and radiator)

You've over charged the system. Total charge is 32 oz. You had some in it to start with then added 32oz more. That could be the reason for that high side pressure reading being elevated. 10% is only 3.2oz

Dripply is right. The only time I've seen the low side pressure that high was 55psi @108° F. Tests in a Jeep have shown that @ 90° F a system can have a 75% charge in it with a low side of 20psi high side 185 and a vent temp of 48°F and with a 100% charge the low side is 23psi high side 187 and duct temp is 47.4°. Now if this system was over charged by only 10% there would be a large increase in the high side pressure. This is a Cycling Clutch Orifice Tube or CCOT system. Since the orifice tube has a set metered opening the only way to control the pressure is with a pressure switch at the accumulator. The pressure switch is set to close circuit (turn on the compressor) @ 45psi and open circuit ( turn of compressor) @ 25psi. This will keep the refrigerant boiling in the evaporator and a duct temp of 35°-45°F. It is important to have as close to 100% charge as you can without a charging station. The accumulator acts as a liquid/vapor separator and a lubricating/cooling point for the compressor. It is filled with 30-40% liquid refrigerant mixed with oil in the bottom and the rest is vapor. In the accumulator along with a desiccant bag for moisture control there is the out going tube in the shape of a U. The vapor is sucked in one end and the other end goes to the low side of the compressor. At the bottom of that U is a small hole covered by a screen filter. That hole acts as a venturi and oil and small droplets of refrigerant are drawn up. The oil is needed to lubricate, and the refrigerant is used to cool the compressor. If the system is under charged the refrigerant will be a low pressure gas by the time it exits the evaporator and will not carry any oil to the accumulator. The oil will collect at the bottom of the evaporator. There will also be no liquid refrigerant to cool and no oil to lubricate the compressor. If the system is overcharged there is a chance that the accumulator will be come filled with liquid refrigerant. This liquid can make its way to the compressor and we all know you can't compress a liquid there for compressor damage.

A thought similar to that ran through my head this morning I'll pm you later.

You still have air flow around the exhaust pipe while shielding the trans, very nice for $28. It should help and I don't see a down side.

Test the center air duct temp with the A/C off first to see if it is the same as out side air and be sure the blend door is closed all the way. Then run the A/C through the enter vent on max A/C (this stops out side air and is in recirculation mode) turn fan on to #3 bring rpm up to 1500 and if you can put a fan in front of the radiator and turn on med to high speed. the fan in front of the radiator and 1500rpm simulates driving at about 35mph and you should see a duct temp below 35°

In the seventies and early eighties the only time I would machine rotors, there was a brake lathe where I worked, was if the brakes went metal to metal. This was with the asbestos pads. When semi-metallic pad were introduced I stared to see brake rotors warping and rotors wearing out in 2 to 3 sets of brake pads, also a lot of noise complaints. I'm still up in the air about ceramic pads. I haven't had much experience with them. The talk about them is they "do" and "don't" wear out rotors, less dust that doesn't stick, quiet, last longer than other types of pads, don't dissipate heat very well and not good for heavy duty braking.

134A boils (changing state from a liquid to a gas) at -15.34°F. When the 134A is discharging from the can both the volume and pressure drops in the can when that happens the temperature drops also. Bring the heat up and the pressure comes up. I believe this is the equation for it P₁V₁/T₁=P₂V₂/T₂.

I've seen how you stop

That not long enough to do anything. When you first hook up a new can of 134A to a system that's running you'll get a high reading when the can is first opened due to higher pressure in the can than the low side. Will the AC PRO set up let you see what the low side pressure is with out opening the can? If so, you can jumper the connector for the pressure switch with a paper clip this will keep the compressor on all the time. Don't let that jumper touch ground and don't run the AC system for a long time with out adding the 134A. Now you will be able to get a low side reading and add as need.

Remember, their time is more important then your time. If they inconvenience you to bad so long as they get theirs. See above. I'll bet that diaper was toss on the side of the road. $25-30 to have 2 rotors turned plus my time and cost to bring them to the machine shop. I can have 2 new rotors delivered free from my supplier for less than $70.

You're not alone in this observation. Critical thinking and problem solving is not being taught. Going that little bit extra in customer service is almost unheard of. I deal with these problems almost daily weather I'm ordering parts, having a cylinder head redone, or doing business at the bank. I'm sure we all could tell story after story of poor service and/or workmanship we've been experiencing. It's sad to say it's only going to get worse with the new generation being past from grade to grade without learning anything, lacking face to face communication skills, and their all winners because their feelings can't get hurt. I've seen the blank stare of the store associate and it's frightening. And NO I don't want fries with that oil filter or have it super sized. you can't fix stupid

I guess what we're trying to say is if anyone in CA wants certain performance upgrades they're going to have to get them from out of state and take them off every 2 years or have a friend that does smog testing to get your registration. Good to know and that you can pass smog testing with them.

The smog tec/owner saw the Edge EZ under the hood and said it was illegal. I went on the CARB web site and the EZ is not on their approved list. I've been dealing with this SMOG station for 16yr. I send them business and they take care of me. Katoom, I see you have RV275 injectors. How are they working for you with the EZ?

Or throw it under the seat for a cheap backup.

You must be going to Glamis or Ocotillo and that's a hard drive back on 8. I've done it a few times pulling my 8k lb 5er. I'm running an Edge EZ with a boost elbow but I got it before the California Air Resource Board (CARB) out lawed it. A lot of the programmers are outlawed here and when you bring your truck in for the biannual SMOG inspection it will fail if they see the programmer on it. It will also fail if any smoke is seen during the 'snap' test so be carful on the size of the injector.

Good! Because he's still hungry.

I'm going there August 18-23, then again in October were I hope to see JAG1 again.

Thanks, The chart is generic but will work for a dodge truck. I recharged a 2006 Volvo S60 last Friday with out side temp of 102° low side of 15psi and high side of 150psi, put in 16 oz into a 1.6 lb system. The low side never went above 35psi and the high side went to 300psi. The duct temp was 20°. So by that chart the low side should have been 50-55psi. Is that with or without rear evaporator?

Dripley enjoying his A/C on the way to work

Picture to help with cool thoughts during the dog days of summer.

I'd dump a can in and see how long it holds. If over a year then stay with that, if less than a year then repair the leak. O-ring kit at O'Reilly's. You'll also need a spring lock coupling tool to get the lines apart. http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/search/A!s!C+System+O-Ring+&+Gasket+Kit/06500/C0320.oap?year=2000&make=Dodge&model=Ram%2B2500&vi=1361999&keyword=a!s!c+o-rings