Rather Be Wheeling

And is that shoulder bolt at 89 in lbs? Or just tight is tight kind of thing?

Yeah I put the connector tube in and they popped in like a glove. I guess I'm going to just torque both bolts at 89 in lbs. And the reason I had to pull that shoulder bolt is because I put #103 springs in it. Or else I would have just slid it out

Having a little trouble finding this answer. My service manual says 89 in lbs for the clamping bolt but nothing for the shoulder. I'm assuming it's the same but I just want to make sure. Pic for reference but I'm sure y'all know what I'm talking about Also, just realized I forgot my in lb torque wrench that goes up that high at my house an hour away. And I don't have a torque wrench that goes to 8 ft lbs. So either I can torque it to 80 in lbs or 10ft lbs with what I currently have. I'm assuming it's not going to hurt anything giving it a little more on my inch lb torque wrench or going up to 10 ft lbs on my other torque wrench. Any insight would be appreciated

Yeah thouroghbred. And I'll double check it when I get it back. I sent it out this morning

I've definitely had issues since I put it on. Once it's set correctly with a new key I'll be able to see what it changes. And that key was horrible to extract. They told me to take that thing out and chuck it before I sent it. I'm pretty good with stuff like this but in the end I had to notch each side of the smashed key perfectly and pull it with some ear clamp pliers. They said they'll put the right key in it so I'll double-check it when I get it back. Thank you

I'm curious what those issues would be. It's always been a little sluggish for all the parts I have on it. And I always thought it was a turbo/air in fuel line type deal. Everyone says it should be waaaaaaay faster than it is. My idles always been a little crappy as well

I'll definitely be buying some of that thank you ? So update; pulled the pump and the woodruff key was smashed one one side and flattened, so it needed to come off anyways. Sending the pump back today and going from there

When I first got my diesel I didn't put any in because I didn't know about adding lubrication to the fuel system. I've been running Howes it but I think I'm going to try something new. Any suggestions? And it barely drops under 14 at WOT - around 1500 on my egts

None that came back. I thought it was super weird I got a speed sensor code though. I haven't spun the tires on it in a while and I just replaced it 600 miles ago as it is

My V2 tune is on level 3 out of 5 on a medium tune. I'm assuming I have the turbo timer set. I started it a few times after it was fully warmed up and it was fine. Waited 20 minutes and started it up again and it took a good 3-5 seconds to start. And it feels like my idle has a minor miss, or it didn't idle like it usually does. I'm going to go over all my grounds on Sunday (had to take one of my other trucks for tomorrow) and unplug the quad and see if anything changes. If it doesn't then I'm pulling the pump

I did. I only had a rear speed sensor which I replaced like 600 miles ago. Everything else of my scanner was clear. No injection codes or anything like that Sad thing is I only have 6000 miles on this pump and the 2 year warranty expired yesterday. Horrible timing I was able to upload a video I took of it. I already emailed thoughbred and hopefully they can still honor the warrenty. We shall see VID_20200904_172757.mp4

Hello, So I went to run an errand with my 01 earlier after washing it and it fell on its face while driving down my street. Had a random speed sensor code that I cleared, but it wouldn't shut off even with the key pulled. I'm assuming it's the VP but I'm trying to find different opinions on the matter. I let it sit for 30 minutes and started it back up no problem. Everything came back to life. Turned it off again and re started it 20 minutes later and everything is fine. The pump is barely 2 years old and I'm reading 15 psi on my FASS. Any help would be appreciated.

I feel like a kid at Christmas haha. As soon as I get back from Vegas I'm putting it all on and going to buy one of the tunes on this website to start playing around with it! Thanks again everyone!

Thanks everyone for the help! I ended up taking y'alls advice and calling up DAP. Talked to Lenny there and he set me up with what I needed. Got hooked up with 150s, 62/68/12, studs, pushrods, springs and a new downpipe. Hurt the wallet but I'm excited for the power increase! Thank you for this information! I'll definitely do this method ?

Sorry but what does it mean when you say 320 bar?

Ahhh gotcha. I'll look into the VCOs. Any insight of what brand turbo? Sorry for all the questions. I'm used to squirrel power Toyota engines. But trying to learn as I go along! Haha

So it's seems like the 150s may be the winner. Any brand preference? DAP? Ducky? etc And SAC or VCOs? I've heard SACs are the way to go...

Hmmmmmm 150s? I would love to have those. Those wouldn't hurt anything going bigger like that?

That's what I'm thinking as well. I've read up about guys popping them after doing studs with the head still on, but I've heard Glaciers process is the way to go. I figure do them that way and then in like maybe 1000 miles re check the torque

Hello I know it's been brought up countless times, but I have a few questions regardless. I'm looking to give my truck a little more pep in her step with either some 100hp or even 120s. I was set on 100s until I messaged Chris at Ducky about some new ones. He suggested 120hp VCOs. And he was the only one I've talked to that didn't suggest a SAC. So i might be leaning towards 120s now. So now on to the turbo. I'm looking for something that will spool quicker than my hx40 (and hopefully keep the EGTs a little lower) I was looking at a Super B but I think I might want something different. Any one have any suggestions on this matter with the supporting mods I have in my signature? I should state that I will be towing 6-7 times a year. The main style of driving it will see will be just taking it on trips and moreso having fun with it. Last one is should I Stud it. I'm sure the term "better safe than sorry" applies here. Problem is I really don't want to pull the head at this time so I was thinking of doing Glaciers stud install with the head still on there. Any advice would be appreciated Oh and she's a 53 btw. I'm not really worried since I do take care of the heating up and cooling down cycles. I figure I'll send it until it cracks, and then it'll give me an excuse to build a block on the stand haha. Thank you! Kevin

Update: about 7-8 cold starts so far and over 300 miles. Broke up the miles into 60/40 city/highway miles (sucks trying to find traffic during a shelter in place) and the CCMs still not ready. Started asking around everywhere and only person that knows what I was trying to accomplish (for a 24 valve in California) said I most likely need to drive it up to 1000 miles and a minimum 20 cold starts. Good news is my Governor finally did something beneficial in my life for once and held smog and registration in California for the next 2 months. So I can still drive it and get it ready without worrying getting pulled over

I live in Cali and my grid heaters deleted. I only throw a code in the winter with hard starts. Other than that it doesn't show up. You should be fine

Did 3 cycles of closer to 30 miles each time and the monitors still not ready. Gonna keep doing the cycles until she's good to go. I'll update the progress!

Thank you for the info. I'm guessing worse case scenario I need to do 10 drive cycles to get that monitor ready. Which isn't bad. I figure that's 3 times the next 3 days and I should in theory be able for emissions on Monday Just so I'm clear cause it's early it'll take 10 cycles from me clearing the codes compared to 40 cycles of just letting the computer do it?

Thank you! I went out just now and ran it again for a little over 20 miles and it didn't reset yet. But I'll keep trying!