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About Willy

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    Lost Family Member
  1. The measurement for the new section is going to be a pain but I am working on some ways to do a mock up first. I will build a steel frame to support the top while I weld it using the door lock bolts on the roof and seat bolts on the floor. I also will have a steel insert welded inside the posts. In the middlle of the cab there is a section that it is factory bolted across under the headliner. I will over lap it there and bolt it to the back side and weld the seam on the top and the bolted area. I am supprised how weak the posts are in the first place!! Glad there are doors and a hood to stop the crush! Mark One of my other projects I built my water Tender. Took several months to weld up all the stuff on the trucks bare frame. Setting up all the pumps was also fun.
  2. The guy I got my 2001 from told me something went wrong with his and Dodge replaced the block under warrentee. I looked last night and found I now have a #56 Block 245 HP in the truck and right at 100,000 miles on it. Mark
  3. Thank you this is what I was needing to know. Cutting and welding the top would take way less time and chance of messing up. It may cost more but when I am done it is still a Dodge 2001 3/4 ton Diesel that can be worked on not a cross dresser! Glad I took the time to remove the parts right not knowing if I may have to still keep this truck!! Mark --- Update to the previous post... Just cut the top today and put the rear doors back in. I cut it in front of the back doors and I can pick up the new section tomorrow which I will trade my nice tail gate for. Trail and error on this part if it works then I will do the rest. If not I will part this baby out to get my money back. Cutting the top was easy did it with a skill saw and a regular wood blade. I will trim it to fit later when I get the new top. I left the posts max and straiten them out close as I could but I need my books to measure the works before any welding and more cutting. I need to pick up 2 front doors also so I can fit it right. Here is some pictures of it. Mark More Pictures; http://ImageEvent.com/willy/dodge2001 Front view;
  4. I have the rear end with the speed sensor on it. I also have the 6 speed HD manual transmission. I have from the radiator to the rear end on the drive line including the front axle set up. What does the wiring involve? Mark
  5. Thanks, by using the wiring does that mean converting all the wiring in the dash also or just under the hood? I do have a nice dash in the truck the diesel is in and all the wiring is still complete and the truck runs. Would it be a dash swap also for this to work? I know the computer on the fire wall needs to go with the engine and I have all the drive line parts etc. It is maybe easier to cut the top and fix that and then rebuild the truck again??? There sure is a lot of crap under the hood of a cummins to follow the wiring for. I have been a comercial electrician for over 34 year and a low voltage electrician I can follow the diagrams if the jacks plug together but if it has to be spliced that could turn into a real mess! Mark
  6. Pulled the hood, both front fenders, front bumper, 4 doors and it still runs! There is a lot of stuff to un/do to pull those fenders!! The drivers side is the hardest to keep all the other stuff still hooked up. Sure wish someone would let me know if I can put all this into a Gas 2001 Dodge 2500 3/4 ton 4x4 as I am coming to a stoping point now as to fixing this one or doing the swap. I can still cut the top and replace it but all the other body stuff needs to be replaced (hood, both front fenders and bed) including the 2 front doors. I saved all the door parts including the electrical and trim. Come on guys chime in here a little and help me out? Mark
  7. After weighing out a new paint job cutting and welding up the top and new glass, hood, bed, fenders and hood it looks easier to swap trucks? It seems a gas 2500 4x4 manual is way cheaper then the diesels ones are. SO is it a real big job to put my running diesel and 6 speed into a gas truck and use the parts off my diesel to beef up the gas power train? I have the complete power train and a great looking dash for all the electrical. Then I could part out the rest of the truck to cover some of the costs. I see 2001 Dodge 2500 4x4s going for $4,500.00 with nice bodys and interior but high miles on them. I could not get a good paint job for that price let alone all the body parts I need. Seems the frames are the same and it may be just changing the wiring harness, front and rear ends plus springs, hydraulic clutch, dash instrument and maybe the fuel tank and fuel system. What I'm I missing here to do this swap? Mark:doh:
  8. Just got back from the wrecking yard and I can get a top the same year as this one cut off at the dash and in front of the back window. My front posts are bent a little but nothing you could not push up by hand. My rear doors are OK just the front ones damaged and need replacing. Looking into welding a new front section on the top for a way to fix the cab? No rust on this truck it is a Eastern Washington one, dry country. I still looking into a doner truck for another way and keep most of the parts for repair parts later. So many way but I did order the $90.00 shop service manual for this truck and year. It has all the body stuff including measurments for all the body parts to set them up right. I even drove it out of the shop and pressure washed the under carrage clean for working on it later. Mark
  9. Well I now have my first new Dodge 2500 extended cab. 2001 3/4 ton 4X4 5.9 HO HD-6 speed with 100K on a factory rebuild and a total of 183K on the truck. Paid $3500.00 for it but it was rolled over and messed up the cab, fenders and sides of the bed!!! No damage to the frame, engine, grill, radiator and complete drive train. Seats are perfect no cracks on the dash (it was covered from new) and all the lights and tail gate are nice! No way to fix the cab it messed up the door tops and folded the windsheild posts down some. Funny part is the back door windows and slider are OK?? Now saying all this is it even smart to think of changing the cab, hood, fenders and bed on this truck since I know how it was driven and I am the second owner. The roll over was at around 10 MPH on a dirt road in the rain!I have done a off frame restore to a 48 Dodge Power Wagon(every nut bolt and screw) and a M-37 plus set up several Bajas. I can't find anything on what I am getting into to remove the cab and unhook all the wiring and controls to put a new one on??? I have time to do this and it is in my shop with lots of room to work on it. Easy part of the cab is the 4 bolts holding it on but the AC, Hydraulic Clutch, wiring harness, brakes etc will be a pain to.This is my first post so be easy on me and I don't give up easy. I need steering in the right direction to get some answers even if I have to buy some manuals. PS The engine still runs nice! Mark:pant:
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