JAG1

Sorry you guys. I haven't been on for awhile, Did a complex job for about a week and a half. You know, work, eat, sleep. Only this the customer handing da' money...:hyper:My VP cooler is a 3 in. duct running from the front bumper intake for rammed air up to the VP. On hot days or hard running I hit a switch to turn on a blower for more cooling.On top of the electronics is a glued on heat sink to help keep it cooler. It is glued with the glue that has heat transfer properties (has aluminum in the glue) and works in conjunction with the rammed air and blower. I know the engine compartment is hot and heat from the block to the VP is killer heat so the duct blows at the fuel inlet on the VP to help cool the fuel and electronics. Cooler fuel equals better mileage is also part of the idea.This set up cost me all of 35 bucks. I think it helps that I have constant cooler outside air blowing at the VP. This idea came from a very lengthy thread on DTR where two guys running tests to cool the vp and fuel found with heat sensors that a blower was very effective. Especially when running the blower for an hour after engine shut down because of massive added heat soak into the VP from the hot engine block.BTW, if you decide to do this I found the flexible aluminum duct only lasts about two- three years. So I'll be changing to a fire resistant flexible vinyl duct.

Thanks Driply for further info. I'm glad to hear your not in the building biz. Although it can be really very good at times, there has now been just one too many slow downs to counter the good times. I think things are getting a little better each year.I have decided to wait on the ball joints for awhile. Today I found everything else is tight like it should be except the steering shaft will move up and down when trying to shake it. It is loose just below the 'U' joint near the column where it connects onto the main shaft. Not much play in the wheel but has a slight clunk near the back of the steering box while turning back and forth.Sometimes a pure baffling truck to own but with sites like this we'll all do much better.

Good advice about not building and doing ball joints. If a guy invested in good equipment you could do alright and stop cussing at the same time.Anyhow, movements only a fraction. It does give a clunk when turning. Could be loose shocks. Need to start working under there today see what's up.Thanks all for the advicebtw, I don't appreciate you guys telling me I got chicken Balls....:lmao:did I read that right!

Seems like I wouldn't need to change them then, so early at 65k miles. It's just a little up and down movement with the wheel on the drivers side only. Wonder about letting it go for awhile w/o it costing more down the road in bearings or something.

Can anyone say how long the labor usually is to change the upper/ lower ball joints? How long before the oem steering damper needs replacing? KYB steering dampers? Better than oem?Sometimes I think this trucks like a boat ..........Still need Raptor pump and steering column bearing. :)T.I.A.

If you can find a label telling what brand it is that helps. Sometimes I have removed the old one careful to keep it together to show the rv supply shops which one. I have always found it easily enough.I usually tape a plastic cover on for temporary. Sometimes with wood across to help make good run off.

Thanks much for the info. I just went out and tried the hot wires to the battery. It's not showing anything better with bigger wires right to the power source. I am convinced the reason the oem Carter pump cannot attain higher pressure is because of the fuel by pass incorporated in the pump head. It allows fuel to flow to the VP44 when the LP goes out, but at the the same time, won't let pressures go high enough, when fully operating, to help cool the VP. It can only get to a certain pressure and then like an over flow, allows fuel back into the suction side of the pump.I could be wrong on this as it's just what I see from opening the 3 used up factory pumps. The original from 02 looks as if there is not much by pass as the newer versions have much larger orifice. This would explain why I was getting 15 psi on the original pump, now only getting 11-12.Better to save the VP with good level of cooling pressure.BTW, Haven't figured out how to do my sig yet...... It's a 2002 black sport extended cab DSS, 03 adjustable trac bar, Gauges, Vulcan big lines, pump on the frame, Alcoa wheels, VP cooler blower with heat sink on top.Thanks again.... Mike do they take checks around here? Please give an address since I'm now devoid of plastic in the pockets.

Thanks A whole lot for that pic/ answer. All I can say now is the brand new reserve pump, I carry under the seat, is going back. I never looked at that plastic keyway slot. Built to soft IMHO. The three pumps you guys talk about.... which is the best company for guarantees and good response?

I'm new here so I would like to say hello to everyone first. Looks like a good forum.I have tried two different OEM lift pumps and still getting very slow to climb fuel pressures on start ups. It'll stay at 4 psi for a few seconds then climbs slow to 10. I wait a few more seconds and it climbs only to 11. I used to always have 14 and went up right away after start ups. With my 1/2 inch lines and big draw straw it would always stay on 14 even with the camper on at WOT. I would like to wire the LP to the battery without the truck running for a test to see if the pressure climbs fast like it used to. If I turn on the key to activate the gauge will it send a code? They are easy to clear and won't do any harm right?Thanks so much and a big Hello from Oregon.