FiveNine

Interesting. Those are good numbers. I would be very happy with that. It still blows my mind that something as simple and a computer chip can make such a HUGE difference. I was on the road the other day and a car was running 15 under the speed limit. So I passed them. Out of habit, I layed into the throttle with the mind set, Im in a 7000lb truck with 215hp. It jumped out and blew by that car. I kinda felt bad because with my windows up and radio on I could clearly hear the engine screaming threw the 5" pipe and echoing off their car..

I got the Juice put in saturday and WOW... thats all I can really say. I was kinda surprised that it didnt smoke more on level's 5 and 6. Dont get me wrong, Im not looking for coal, but just from reading what others post and watching video's I was thinking I would end up with a freight train. Seems like on level 5 and 6 anything below 10psi and it comes rollin out, but once the boost makes it past 10psi it clears up really good. On the 1st run with no back downs set it would peg my boost gauge in just a few seconds. (40psi) and on level 6 it would be 13-1400* really quick. I set some of the back downs and its alot better. On level 5 EGT would top out about 1200-1250* I cant believe how easy it was to change my truck. I mean I have read about but gez! :stuned:Now for a question:I have an IssPro EGT gauge already, can I use the IssPro probe for both the Edge and IssPro Gauge? I have read a few threads and it seems like some say yes, and some say no. Any of you guys know?

Cool thanks! I still think 350hp/750tq might be pretty realistic. Mike put down 380hp/800+tq with RVs and edge. besides my truck is an auto and a dually, our trucks are really close to being the same.

The hot unlock power level 6 has the same power as level 5 on the "locked" version, it just fuels to 3200 vs the 2700 stock setting. I know that the HX35 will be at it max with my set up, but I dont plan to add anymore to my truck. Im shooting for a setup like Moparman. I also understand that performance companies advertise HP/TQ number based on ideal conditions and actual gains vary depending on transmission type, how effective the transmission is at putting power to the ground, what supporting mods you have, and things put extra load on the engine that use HP like tire tire size. I started this thread to get a general idea of what I might be at. I dont know of any dyno's around me, and dont really care enough to find out and get true numbers for my truck.

Thats pretty much what I was thinking, but wasnt sure. I do have an HX35, anf the transmission is not stock, but its not a full build either. The EJA maxed out should add 120hp/350tq

I would guess no, but really I have no idea....

You could try Car-part (dot) com. I have bought some stuff off there before, but never anything for a diesel. It a place where junk yards can list items.Sorry about your head....

I know.. I know... Its an old question, but I think I already know the answer, I just need to confirm.My truck has everything in my sig. I have an Edge JWA in the mail, so the Power Puck will be coming off. Would it be a safe guess to assume my truck should be in the 350hp/750fr lbs range, or would it be more like the 400/800 range?

I feel your pain on that one Mopar, I broke 2 bolts off mine also...

The transmission I have now has a trans go shift kit in it. When it shifts you can feel it, but its not bad. I like knowing its in gear. A soccor mom might not like it though. I have read plenty of threads where people have trans-go shift kits and like them.

OID fuse is the main fuse for the whole system? Good idea.

Thanks for the fast responce. I dont have any kind of shelter to park it under... I really wish I did..:(I dont drive my Cummins every day, It might get started once every few days or it might only get run once a month.. Just depends on how much extra fuel money I have:ashamed:

Im pretty new to diesels and this will be my 1st winter with one. Last year my transmission was down and then I shipped out to basic. Question 1:I have weak batteries (I need to replace them, but Christmas is making that tough) and I am wondering what all is going on when the "wait to start" light is on. I know the grid heater is one, but what else? What would happen if I just jumped in my truck and started it like a gas engine? The reason I as I am trying to save power for the starter when its cold.Question 2:When, and for how long should the block heater be plugged in before you start? What would I risk if I left the block heater plugged in all the time? High power bill, Fire? waste of time? As always, thank you!

I do have a CEL but its from my APPS going bad....

I have a single disc converter.... The injection pump did have a few issues. I was worried that maybe the RV injectors maybe where leaking, or not popping right. Other than lower idle and it stalling once going into park once, it runs great! I cant wait to get a few more things taken care of and then step up to a wire tap box!