mehbohdi

Was looking more for project, can't do shell cause I need open truck 1/2 the time. I used to work out of Chev Aluminum bodied step van with 454 with 4:10 gears, pass everything but a gas station and it was great to work out of, it was set up well by a friend. I was thinking 70s or 80s 3/4 or 1 ton 2wd 24 valve w/7100 pump. I would be willing to modify dog house, not so sure about floor around engine. It would definitely have to fit existing hole. My other questions are, is the frame up to the task I don't remember if the frames are boxed on the vans. I have owned a few vans so I know space is a premium, radiator, a/c, intercooler, trans cooler, not sure if there's enough room up there. I'm in the research mode at the moment. Any input is food for thought

I use my truck for work every day, its a tool box and a hauler. I've been considering getting Van to use as a drier tool box seen as I live in the Pacific NW, and I keep putting more tools in truck and have to decide which ones get to ride in back more often than not. So, I use to drive vans and I thought it would be cool to put a 2nd or 3rd gen engine in van. Has anybody seen this done or know anybody that has done it. Does the 5.9 fit is the biggest question I have? Thanks for your input

As far as oil pressure goes put a manual gauge on to really check pressure, sending units will lie about actual psi they are a great indicator of pressure but not actual numbers. As long as the needle is moving up down you are probably OK. I am a little old school when it comes right down to it. Don't fix it if it ain't broke......

I have had a Quad XZT for 6 years and have jump numerous vehicles and my backhoe and have had no problems. I did not see that warning in the manual? Or is it just the ADR.

Dare I ask, why you have hair spray lying around?

I will update post if sending unit ever fails. I don't drive mine more than 10,000 miles a year so it might take awhile.

So far I still have the same hi and lo's I had when installed. Everything was installed at same time ( pump, gauge, and big line kit). My thinking is, because the sending unit is at the pump and it is rubber hose all the way to VP the rubber is absorbing some of the hammering. That's the only explanation I have. I'd rather be lucky than good...

I'm running Isspro EV2, put sending unit at pump (DDRP) on frame rail, that was at least 3 years ago. no snubber, no needle valve, no damping of any kind and no problems.

So its been 4 days since o-ring and tube replacement, took 4 hrs to do everything. Truck has started every time on about 1 rotation, which is normal operations, and I don't see or smell fuel anymore. So I conclude success! Thanks for all your input.

All the parts finally got here, doing it this weekend. I'll post when I get done. I did get injector o-rings just in case, I'm going to pull valve cover just to look and set (check) valves while I'm there.

Already done, not my first rodeo. Thanks

Thank you all for the info, I might have to do injector o-rings but not sure, I'm going to do tubes first, head is wet on #4 & #6 injector, I think that's the only problem.

So I'm going to replace X-over tube o-rings and I have conflicting info, Book says torque injectors install tubes torque injector lines, I have read on this forum leave injectors loose (snug but not torqued), install tubes, torque lines, then torque injectors? Is one method better than the other? I understand reasoning, to help center tube on injector. Is the book overly confident that one could put the injector in the proper position the first time? I want to hear from people that have done it. Thanks

Thanks, Carli kit 2.75"

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