hex0rz

GENOS GARAGE, I totally forgot! :banghead: Now thats a BETTER PRICE!Its outrageous to pay $126, $70-something for a freaking piece of rubber mated to metal!Although, I still wanna grumble about $40 even... Why the prices gotta be so high for parts for a diesel? I thought newer parts for gasoline vehicles were bad...

I checked O'reilly's for A/C, o-rings/seals and they had a generic o-ring pack. They did not have the compressor seal washers. I dunno where I can get them? I will try NAPA in the meantime. Otherwise, I have no idea where to get them. The one I took in to show them, I notices was breaking down so I cannot reuse them! I guess I need to grab someone with some big arms like you, Mike! I can do that, but I need to get it all back together first, lol. Usually they will add the dye to the system though to check for leaks...

For some reason, you two remind of the movie Rango...I sure can respect the actions you guys are taking to support your neighbors! Way to go on looking out for your community. Cohesion in times like these are important! Big Kudos to you guys for even being capable of doing what you can do!I sure would like to see you on here more often moparmom. Makes me feel a little that the only time I ever got to talk with you is when I told my bigfoot story!

Alright, working on the whole "heater core" project and I had to remove some other misc. parts I deemed for removal to get to the relevant parts. One of them being the turbo downpipe to the intercooler. Upon inspection, I found very dark oil residue. It has a sheen to it. Its not heavy, but it covers the inside so much that its black.I'm not sure if this means my turbo is shot, or if the K&N filter that used to be in it was the culprit. I can only think of cleaning the downpipe and driving it for a while and then take a look at it again to see if there is a presence of oil or not to figure out whether or not my turbo needs rebuilt.If I do need to rebuild it, where can I get the rebuild kit? I tried calling around and only got off the phone with confusion and laughter... :cookoo:It'd be nice to make this as an excuse for a bigger turbo...

Well, I got the condenser, accumulator and compressor removed. Got the orifice tube/line removed. Only thing that sits in the bay still is the lines that hooked up to the compressor. The name of it escapes me...Now, I can get an idea of what gaskets, seals I need to get to redo the system...Pulling the compressor off was not quit as easy for me. I had to take a cheater pipe to be able to apply enough force to break the compressor bolts loose. I dunno how the heck I'm ever gonna be able to retorque them down... Hopefully I have a crowsfoot that will work.I had to remove the downpipe from the turbo outlet to get access to the bolts on the top. Unfortunately, I think I'm gonna have to start a new thread on that subject. :banghead:I'm a little confused on what seals I need to completely redo the system...

I'm gonna hit the engine bay with some purple power when I get done with all this work I'm doing on it, AGAIN. After, I'll see if it continues to leak and go from there. I do not think its the banjo on the rear, as the caking up of stuff is also accumulating on the exhaust side.

Yea, I've seen them videos before. Pretty neat. Have not been able to do it myself yet, since I don't have me one of those air crushers...

Yep, I kept mine to keep the fuel warm as it passes through. Who really knows if it really does help. But I figured it couldn't hurt. I also still have a filter in the canister, so maybe I could gain some presure back. Only having the pump push fuel through 2 instead of 3. Heck, if it don't work, I may just go to the hardware store and see about getting some barbed fittings and tap the tee into the fuel line and hook the line up directly to vp44 and gamble on the fuel heater.

The only thing I can think of now that would cause my wide pressure loss sweep, is friction loss...The stock fuel canister, could the restriction that it makes be the reason for my airdog pump motor burning up?Sounds like bypassing the canister is the only solution?

Yep, air can cause an injury such as one like this. The other important factor about the pneumatic injury is that you can get air bubbles in your circulatory system and those bubbles can travel to your heart or brain and kill you.People NEED to be careful. I should put up some info on what a hydraulic leak looks like under pressure. Its not invisible, but you gotta know what to look for so you can recognize the hazard.The last hand in the series of pictures in the first post was a man that suffered from a catastrophic failure to a hydraulic system.Thats an aspect that has got me a little worried when I operate my log splitter or especially the extrication equipment from the firetruck. The extrication equipment have 2 couplers for the hoses that run the tool and they lock together a certain way. If the person hooking them up does not do it right, fluid can spray from the fittings and make the operators day a very bad one.

AH! Don't do that! I know she is your boss and all, but I don't want her to be mine, too! Okay, yea, I kind of figured thats how it worked. Sometimes I get confused where to put my off-topic threads though...

Aright, I'm trying to diagnose if its my valve cover gasket thats leaking. It may even be an old leak, too. I have some oil staining if you would call it that, that is at the rear. It can only come from the valve cover as it is to high for anything else. I have torqued the cover down and then retorqued after so long. I will double check again to see if it is still indeed leaking.Although, I called O'reilly's, and they sell the gasket for $126! WHHAAATTT!That is out of this world! Where could I get one cheaper?

Alright, I did a search on the subject here on the forum and came up with nothing. Maybe I searched wrong or something? Maybe it has not been discussed, or much if at all? I sincerely think this is an issue that needs to be brought to attention! I learned about this type of hazard a year or so ago, but did not realize how serious and how much of a presence it can make in our everyday lives. I just got through with my extrication ops and we learned a little about it so we could be aware of it. It was also the first time I got to see some pictures of how SEVERE an injury it can be! Being that we deal with high pressure diesel, I think it needs to be brought to attention. Now, not only for our trucks, but for also everyday things. People need an awareness to this issue. I dunno how the p7100 or cp3 systems work, but I do know on the vp44 system, everything after the IP is at around 4500psi. ANYTHING over 100psi is enough to penetrate your skin! 4500psi is more than enough to do serious damage. Think about what your potentially dealing with and be aware of how bad you could be bitten by it. Even wearing gloves will NOT protect you! DO not stick your hands or fingers over ANY hydraulic leak! High pressure hydraulic fluid can penetrate through gloves and THROUGH your hand! The injury itself will not initially look like an emergency situation, but it is. You need to get to the nearest hospital ASAP. I know I personally have stuck my hand in front of a pressure washer nozzle to clean my hand off. I could have EASILY caused an injection injury to myself. It does not matter what type of fluid that has been injected, at best it will cause tissue damage. Although, the worse the chemical injected, the worse the injury can become! I will include a couple sources on the issue so people can gain more knowledge on the issue: http://lifeinthefastlane.com/2011/05/high-pressure-injection-injury/ ^Read the description and then click on the Q(uestion) dropdowns for further info. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KgtqCUF1E5A Here are some pictures: ***********GRAPHIC*********** ^Look at how minimal the injury seems on the outside. ^Here is what can develop from it if left untreated or if its a severe enough injury. Remember, anything that causes a fluid to be circulated and/or discharged at pressure ABOVE 100psi, can cause an injection injury capable of these types of injuries!

Alright, I'm having some trouble here. Whats the difference between the General conversation forum and the lighter side of mopar forum? Does not necessarily seem like they differ much..

MY heater core cost me $69 at O'really's. The evaporator is a little more, $75.

Yep, what dripley said. I had to really get on mine to get it to twist off. Valves are .01 on intake and .02 on exhaust.

Ah! I have not done the line from the canister to the pump yet. I suppose thats where the drop is occuring? You would think that would increase the pressure.

I thought the oil circulated with the freon? The oil stays in the compressor? I thought they put oil in it when they charge it?

Called NAPA and they said they could get it for $9. He said the one I have would work just fine. I got it in and adjusted. Mimicks Mikes gauge when I energize the pump. Although, I dunno if it has to do with the location or not, but the gauge shows a different pressure variation than before I had it on.It will drop from 20 psi to below 15psi to about around 13-14psi if I get on it. Regular acceleration, it drops down to about 16psi. Is this normal?

Boy, when I ask for it, I ask for it!

Alright, so I'm pulling the dash and replacing the heater core. I got the A/C evacuated and its ready to get started on. Although, I was hoping to get a list going of anything that should get replaced while I'm in there.I bought my heater core, got a quote on the evaporator and resistor, but dunno about anything else. How can I tell if the evap is bad or the resistor needs replaced?What else?

Thanks Mike. I took it to an auto shop and the guy evac'ed my A/C system. I got the system charged last year and when he evac'ed it, he said he only pulled out 1/2 a pound out of 2 pounds!So I got a leak going on somewheres. Hoping it is something small. He said I probably have a leak at the compressor where the lines connect to it. O-rings? I called O'reilly's and they said there are 3 different o-rings listed for it and they are color coded and also do not say how many are needed.The guy was nice enough to disconnect my lines for me with his tools. So I did not need to buy any. But I just called NAPA and they had them for $12.Also, do I need to replace my accumulator, or is it not a big deal? I just can't see where this water and an particulate goes if it does not drain? I have no idea if it has ever been replaced either.Just trying to get an idea of anything that I should do while the system is not charged...

Thanks for the input boys! I checked literally EVERY local store here that could have possibly carried it. I checked our local co-op store and I was shocked. Asked the guy if he carried one and he said I'm pretty sure, let me check. Comes back, "Oh yeah, I've got like 7 diff. styles, what do you need?" :stuned:I told him they were amazing, because NO ONE else carried them!I spent $6.50 on the needle valve and I did not even need to get any extra fittings! One male and the other side female! :hyper:I never thought about NAPA carrying one...

Went through CDA, ID on Saturday. It was the cheapest area to get fuel at $3.92/gal.

Okay, so I gave it some more thought about how I could go about adding a needle valve for my gauge. Instead of going the route of "in-line", I figured, I will just put a valve in on one of the ports thats on the fuel filter canister. Problem is, it seems like it cannot be done? What I mean is, I went to Home Depot and the guy did not have any of the right fittings. :banghead:The fitting for the fuel pressure gauge is an 1/8" Iron pipe thread. He did not have any valves in this style. Nor was he able to get any of the fittings he had to work.Do regular hardware stores have the right kind of needle valve I need or is it special order? Also, he mentioned his valves were a fibrous material and said they probably would get eat up by the diesel.