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Been awhile since I updated but trucks been back together with the new superstick nv5600 from Cody I absolutely live it finally picked up my new 40 foot trailer as well and am ready to start hauling cars again.

Took trans out last night had some metal flakes on the magnet in the bottom and getting it ready to get shipped out thursday.

The lack of oiling im sure wasnt from my end when I replaced clutch I overfilled it with fresh fluid as most say. The new trans from cody will be fixed with upgraded to the oil system and 2 fast coolers for even more fluid and to help keep trans temps down.

Have found the issue trans is toast hopefully because I popped the truck in neutral before the rear tires locked up I saved the 1300 dollar south end clutch which is still under break in period lol and the input shaft. The splines at the carrier bearing arent twisted which is awesome both drive shafts aren't twisted. And all the u joints are tight. Pulled rear diff cover and its clean zero metal shavings and plenty of fluid that was super clean. Going to pull the thing out and send it over to Cody at Super Stick trans for some love and go from there. Snapchat-2064925415.mp4

I was coming home yesterday towing my trailer and a car on it cruising at 70 mph in cruise all off a sudden the rear tires locked up and I skidded to a stop leaving a nice long set of dually tracks on the road. Luckily I wasn't on to big of a highway. Anyway initially I thought rear end was locked up but that's not the case. The trucked would not pull forward at all, but when the roll back pulled the truck backwards it rolled smooth and then when he pulled it forward after pulling it backwards it pulled fine no issues. Unloaded the truck and I drove it into the shop. Now I haven't broke into anything yet the driveshaft doesnt seem twisted all the u joints are still tight and I felt no issues with the rear pulling into the shop. However the trans is extra clanky right now and I dont wanna run the truck long. Any help would be appreciated if anyone has had problems like this before. And on a scale of 1-10 how likely is my nv5600 **** and who is a reputable rebuilder or place to buy a reman thanks.

Got everything installed huge power difference. Trucks alot of fun. Purchased a couple tunes from mopar man and me, and also from a reputable guy off Facebook. Having a little egt issues with the towing tunes but useable. Going to try and turn the egts down some but so far enjoy it very much. It's a different type of animal together used to as the stock setup full throttle in the stock setup would get me in the 1350 area for egts,but the new setup about 1/2 throttle for 4-5 seconds will pop me up there. Plan on getting a gauge pillar and looking for recommendations on what 3 gauges to go with I already figured another pyro gauge.

Stock 16s and stock size tires. Do the 2wd single wheel trucks turn better than the dually trucks with the adapter?

Since iver owned this truck I've noticed the turning radius is garbage compared to my 2006 gmc 2500 gasser. While looking at my lower control arms I can see where the steering stop is slowly eating away at the lower control arm, which makes me think there is more availability to turn the wheel. Has any one cut the steering stops off before to decrease turning radius on these 2wd trucks ? I've debated cutting off a 1/4 -1/2" to see how well it helps worst case scenario I cut to much off and have to weld a piece of bar to the lower control arm to make up for the piece from the spindle I cut off.

Settled on the 62/68/12 150 hp injectors ordering through DAP and there throwing in a turbo blanket that should make up the 200 rpm spool diff between the gxe and ther sxe thanks guys

You got a link for yours or similar option? Called the led place and they said they would give me a store credit but not a refund go figure.

With a exhaust brake wouldnt I have to worry about it putting extra strain on valvetrain and pushrods?

First off since my passenger light got smashed I ordered new housings(see pic) and hated the halogen bulbs they were crap. Decided to upgraded to LED Conversion (see pic). Just looked at a couple old posts saying the LED lights in the housings are super bright and are a issue for oncoming drivers. If this is true I dont mind taking a loss of the 130 bucks if I cant send these back for lights that's are safer for other drivers and still bright enough for me. Also will be replacing brakes and rotors soon what brand or brakes and rotors are everyone running. I tow alot and need good brakes. Looking for suggestions on all thanks.

I'd stick with the standard pump they are good from what I've read to 700+ hp I have a HO pump and its rated less next time I replace my pump I'm swapping to a SO pump.https://www.bluechipdiesel.com/ has a bunch of helpful info in their website. I bought there 2 year pump and though it was more pricey compared to most other remanned 2 year warranty pumps the info off their website and I called them on a Saturday and they were opened and talked with one of the guys for 30+ minutes and was super knowledgeable helped me pull the trigger on buying from them. If you buy a new pump and dont have the stealth cover I would highly recommend it the wire connector quadzilla gives you is crap. I tapped my first pump with it and as soon as I turned my programmer on that when my pump died. I have the stealth cover and new vp44 and I have had zero issues with it.

When I call who do I ask for? Or does it matter?

Has anyone had experience with Fenley precision inductions cam across there Facebook page for a hx 35 60/67/12 how would this compare to a 62 besides the price difference?

If that's the case I'll probably go 62 dont really see the concern for exhaust brake unless I'm up north with the grades but plan on upgrading to 3rd gen brakes if that's a option for my truck. I baby the truck for rpms always shift between 25-2800 Thanks for all the help!

With the 62 I'd have to look at some valvetrain upgrades? Pushrod,valve springs. You promote the he351 turbo pretty good seems like the GXE 57 is a high dollar one of those which if Its a direct replacement seems to be the better option for me. Only thing that sticks out to me with the 62 is the 500hp and that would be the easier turbo to get rid of if I didnt like it. The faster spooling will help me on the hills up north since it will spool faster. I doubt I'll be in 6th gear going 75 up the hills but 60 in 5th seems more like a thing. The 57 GXE will most likely be the one I go with.

I drive it daily but 90 percent of a time theres a trailer attached to it.

Primary is Daily Driver secondary is all towing. Truck doesnt get raced I dont think I've went past 3000 rpm since I've owned it the 5 inch exhaust and drone gets loud at 2800 lol. Here in Florida I'm 49 feet of elevation , where I tow to in New York 3-4 times a year is 1400 feet elevation if that helps any. Also dont plan on any weight over 26000 combined I dont want to gave to get a cdl for a hobby lol.

VCO or SAC

I will probably shoot for the 57 gxe DAP was talking about 400 horse is a pretty good jump over the 200 ish I've had. If the canbus fueling will make it a work horse with the quadzilla and 100-150hp injectors I think id be super happy with that. Thanks

Just had to upgrade subscription went with the platinum yearly seems well worth the price alot of info here thanks for that first off for the guys who run the site. Anyway if 350-450hp will be a better platform for hauling then I'm open for that aswell if I can pass a vehicle on the interstate towing my 40' trailer at almost the same pace as if it wasnt there then I'm open for any options hp/tq options. The engine and trans are what I bought the truck for long way down the road I wanna buy a blown up ford 6.0 truck and swap it all over for more comfort. Besides that based on what I'm wanting 350-450 hp would be the better number to search for for hauling? The 245 factory number just doesn't cut it for me. With your towing tune ME on level 5 with the wire tap it was a fun tune to rip through the gear towing those town cars 4 hours home but the egts were starting to see that I was at my limit with my weight I wanted to pull. So I figure more base power via turno injectors and keep the tuner there for when the trailer not hooked up for the wow factor. I came from a 2006 gasser 2500 which towed my single car fine all over the country but no way would I ever hook my 2 car to it.

First cummins, I'm sure just as with everything else it's more power more problems. Reliability means more to me than power based on that is 400hp more reliable with compounds or is 700 more reliable with compounds. I dont have a clue with what these things can handle just was told the truck will fall apart around the engine and trans and so far that is 100 percent true for me so far lol.

500 hp wasnt really a goal more of a set number in my head that i figured would be a easy power number to do everything I wanted. End goal is compounds but if a single turbo can get me by for a while I'd like that. I just put the head studs and new gasket on less than a month ago I'd hate to take it back apart this early to get a oring cut in to the head for compounds. I wouldn't mind spending 2k on a single turbo and injectors and then 5k later in the year maybe a good christmas present for a bad *** towing compound set up.

Will the 57 sxe hold me over for awhile until I piece the rest together or stick with the hx35 until I can do it all at once,or would a single turbo in that power range towing what I tow be so crappy that I'd need compounds? I honestly am just looking for enough power that when the trailers unhooked its something I can have a little fun with but when trailers hooked up it's like it's not even there I'm happy with there factory tq its the hp seems I'm lacking.