BDK

Thanks Guys! and yes Silverwolf, they are the 6 that attach the pulley to the bearing hub. BDK

Anyone have or know where I can find the 6 fan pulley bolts for an 01 2nd gen. My son's fan hub bearing froze and sheared all the bolts of the fan pulley. I've tried MoparPartsGiant and they are stating there is an 80 day wait!....really need them much sooner. Even if I knew length, thread/pitch then I could go from there... Thanks, Bruce

Full Send Diesel makes them but only for the transmission lines. They don't make the coolant lines yet.... Bruce

Anyone have an old set of the Coolant lines from the HE? Just figured I'd ask first.. Bruce

That's what I'm thinking Silverwolf......👍

Thanks IB, Not sure why the parts diagram has that "older" HE (assume it is an older style) shown. Thanks for confirming yours is the same. May just need to have lines made as those prices are crazy expensive. Bruce

Thanks Pepsi, Are your lines ok on the coolant side. I believe my son's will need replaced and cannot find them at a reasonable price. IB found some but they were VERY expensive and may just need to make my own or take the old one's somewhere and have then bend new lines. Bruce

IB, The HE on my son's truck is the one in the first pic I sent. Perhaps they had more than one style? His truck is a 2001 2500.... Bruce

IB, I pulled it from here: https://www.detroitmopar.com/oem-parts/mopar-oil-cooler-tube-5011918aa?c=Zz1jb29saW5nJnM9bGluZXMtdHJhbnNtaXNzaW9uLW9pbC1jb29sZXImbD0yNiZuPUFzc2VtYmxpZXMgUGFnZSZhPWRvZGdlJm89cmFtLTI1MDAmeT0yMDAxJnQ9YmFzZSZlPTUtOWwtbDYtZGllc2Vs I think the pic you have is for a 12v and not the 24v. From what I understand the HE's are different between the two. Bruce

Anyone have an aftermarket supplier of the lines that connect to the side of the HE (coolant lines/metal tubes)? I am going to keep the HE in place but want to replace these lines as they are 21 years old and starting to leak. Ideas? Bruce

This would be the coolant lines... B This would be what I'm looking for. Replacement of the mess that comes off the coolant ports on the HE.

OK all, I think you have convinced me to keep the HE in place. I'll work on getting it to not leak (ugh). However, does anyone know if there are replacement (aftermarket) lines available that come out the side of the HE on a 2001? Bruce

Thanks again MM, We never had an issue with trans. overheating. Actually normally never gets over 150/180 degrees. It was the thought of removing the HE and since it could cause an issue if it leaks and that the lines are presently leaking as well. The idea was just to bypass and replace the front mounted trans. cooler with a Mishimoto cooler only. This way the trans would just route to the Mishimoto cooler and then back to the trans. No HE at all in the loop. The primary reason for upgrading the stock trans. cooler was due to the desire to eliminate the HE. Make sense? Bruce

Thanks MM.... Bruce

Thanks guys, reapply appreciate all the help. The lines are Full Send Diesel lines and the ends come from them as well. So I may just remove the HE altogether and then upgrade to a Mishimoto Trans. cooler. I would hope this would suffice.... Bruce

Mopar1973Man testing as BDK for posting... Testing 1 2 3

Hey guys, My son has a 2001 Ram 2500 and the two lines (trans. lines) that come off the bottom seep/leak consistently. I had the idea of just removing it altogether but wanted to see what everyone's opinion is. He does not haul anything and just drives it to and from work. My idea was to just plug the two bottom ports (trans. ports) with NPT fittings and take the line from the front of the transmission to the transmission cooler. The output of the transmission cooler to the rear port on the transmission. Seems to be the easiest route and not having to mess with the coolant lines from the Heat Exchanger. He has new flexible AN lines, but just can't seem to get them to stop leaking (leaks at AN fitting). Would it be a good idea to upgrade to a better transmission cooler other than the stock one (mishimoto or something similar)? What is everyone's thought on bypassing and also the method I would like to use to bypass? Thanks, Bruce

Thanks all and Silverwolf with the update on the DRBIII. I called my dealer and they were clueless as to how to do it.....anyway, think I will just let it go as it seems more hassle than it is really worth. Really appreciate all the input however! BDK

Thanks for all the feedback guys. I'm thinking about the FOB's 01 but may or may not go this route if it is such a pain to get everything working. I thought it would just be simple like the article I referenced. Since the truck seems to have the alarm and keyless entry (it locks the doors around 10mph, in addition to the alarm portion I referenced in my initial post). Let me think about it as buying the remotes, would be moot if it takes another arm and leg to get all the programming done. BDK

Thanks for all the input guys. So it seems like I'm just wishing and it is not really worth it cost wise..... BDK

Dripley, pretty sure it came with Keyless entry as it will alarm if the driver side door is unlocked and opened with the key. However, not with the passenger side door. BDK

Hey all, my son has a 2001 2500 24v that only came with keys when he bought it. He would like to add a FOB to lock and unlock and my assumption is that this can be done via just programming. Anyone tried this? Does this article make sense and seem legit? https://itstillruns.com/program-keyless-entry-remote-fob-6194237.html He only has keys and no FOB currently. BDK

Cool, that's my ticket then...

Yep, the perm-lok seems the way to go as long as there's no issue with having it permanently locked (mileage may decrease a bit from what I've read but no biggie). BDK

Yep, think I am just going to lock the front with the posi-lok setup, the one without the cable and just control via the transfer case, seems a whole lot better, not need to worry about the light (4x4 on or off) as the t-case will tell me what I'm in. BTW, truck is Auto for those that inquired.... BDK