Reaper22

@Tractorman The VP had been in the truck for about a month before I pulled the engine and it was running great, no uneven idle. Same with the turbo rebuild. I did the injectors, gaskets and seals, trans work, motor mounts, new fuel lines, and new batteries at the same time. The only thing I’m seeing there that could cause this is the injectors.Also, I have tach signal again. No change.

OK, good news today. I cleaned out the sensor and plug with brake cleaner after seeing some diesel near it and I got my tach back. Bad news is the truck still doesn’t idle right. The injectors I put in are RV275s. No diesel in the oil, no blow by, tuner makes no difference plugged in or not. I’ve been reading these RVs aren’t pop tested and balanced from factory so I’m thinking they are what’s causing the uneven lope at idle. Anyone else heard about this issue with RV275s? I wish I had the stock sticks to put back in and see if they solve it but I don’t. On a sad note, have to say I’m kind of disappointed with this Goerend valvebody. For the price point far above anyone else and the assurances I got from talking with them I really expected more. Shifts don’t feel much firmer than stock, it shifts late and I triple checked the TV adjustment per their instruction. Going to have to give them a call about that this week…

I’m not seeing why I would need to pull the pan, a broken tone ring seems very unlikely especially since the tach worked perfect before the engine was pulled. Any ideas on testing the sensor?

Hey guys, I just finished a bunch of work on my truck and dealing with some issues I’m not sure are related or not. For background I Pulled engine and trans, resealed engine, new poly motor mounts, new RV275 injectors, new VP and alternator, rebuilt the 47re w Goerend VB and rebuilt transfer case, head studs, resealed AC, rebuilt turbo, new fuel lines, intake and exhaust gaskets, basically went through the whole powertrain. What’s happening now is I’m not getting a tach signal and the truck sounds like it’s missing at idle and there’s a sharp hiss/tick in the exhaust like a misfire. I’m wondering where the sensor is for the tach signal because I’ve checked all around the motor and can’t find anything not plugged in. I assume it’s the sensor in the back of the timing case between the VP and the block but I’m not positive. I am positive the VP key way is in correctly. Would not having a tach signal cause issues with injector timing or does it sound like I have a mechanical issue inside the head causing this? If the sensor for the tech is correctly plugged in is there a way to test if it’s the sensor itself or an issue in the wiring? Any advice appreciated as always.

So the 216 code and the fact that my truck charges well guarantees that my problem lies in the VP and not the PCM? I just don’t want to buy a pump to find out my PCM was the problem and have to send that in as well.

Sounds like you got one of the good pumps. You are correct that I had no driveability problems prior to running the bad alternator for longer than I should’ve. I did notice my trucks max boost going down over the last 8-10 months. Used to hit around 37psi and now I usually max around 29-30. I originally attributed this to a possible exhaust leak or just 240k miles on stock injectors but understanding the VP mechanics makes me wonder if my timing wasn’t optimal and this was an early sign of VP failure. Just connecting random dots with that idea though

Sorry for the late reply y’all, thanks for all the responses as well. Completed the W-T ground mod and took the truck out still gave me dead pedal but only once pulling onto the highway which was fun. The codes came back: P0216 P0380 P1693. Truck is charging great 13.8v constant no drops or fluctuation like before and doesn’t drain overnight anymore. Checked and cleaned my terminals and crossover which looked great used good quality lugs for the new alt and ground connections. Given the information I’m getting from y’all it’s unfortunately looking like the VP with 39k miles on it. Really thought having the fass and big lines would get me at least 150-200k but guess that’s what I get for picking the 24v, sure is bitchin when it runs though…Anything else worth checking?

Almost done with the W-T ground mod now, got interrupted by rain on Sunday but should have time to finish today. I replaced the alternator and the truck is charging normally now and isn’t draining battery over a few days, however the dead pedal hasn’t gone away. What is the likelihood that something like this fried my VP? I replaced it once already and I’d much, much rather send my PCM for a couple hundred than do the $1200 VP again.

Thanks for the reply @Tractorman, My truck does not have the ground mod done yet, I’m going to go ahead and do that and take the truck up and down the back roads near my house until codes show up again and report back with what it’s giving me. Edit: The batteries were replaced the week before I bought the truck so that would be Late December 2019.

Hey folks, It seems I’ve gotten myself into a situation. About 2 weeks ago my alternator started going out. It would charge fine for a while then drop voltage to 12.3-12.4 and sometimes completely off to around 11v. Monitoring with the gauge on my edge. When charging it would bounce from 13-14v. This started when I was about 300 miles from home. I limped the truck home without replacing it and noticed that on the back of the alternator the clip which secured the plug had broken and would not click and secure. Figured this was my problem and engineered a zip tie fix but didn’t drive the truck again until yesterday. On that drive the truck started giving me the 30 second dead pedal every mile or so and throwing a bunch of codes. No surging, coughing, breaking up, just dead pedal. A couple glow plug/heater grid faults which were present before, a companion module fault, and everyone’s favorite: P0216. I replaced the alternator and cleared the codes today hoping I didn’t procrastinate for too long. Well, my voltages are nice and steady but it gave me dead pedal 500 feet from my house so I assume I’ve fried either the Vp,ecm, or pcm because I didn’t immediately replace the alternator. I don’t trust driving it long enough for the codes to come back but I could if necessary. My VP only has 39k on it and has had 15-17psi from a FASS the whole time. Alternator is just a duralast but I did have them test it before I took it and it checked good twice. I should also note while unsure of its relation to this issue that my truck has a particular talent for corroding terminals heavily and often. Where do I start with this? As always, thank you guys for being the most helpful cummins forum out there.

Ok guys bit of a bittersweet update. Long story short, the guy with the used pump and box tried to scam me. Unfortunate but I decided to just say screw it and ordered a redhead and a psc hi-flow pump for the truck. Praying it isn’t a hydroboost failure. Also getting the PS filters and looking into the cooler. Next week Saturday the truck goes on the lift for a whole lotta fun stuff and it needs to be dialed in by then. Will keep y’all updated if I get it fixed. Was thinking about opening up the HB and seeing if there’s any crap in there, any tips or advice for being sure that sucker is clean?

Something like this looks pretty good. Not sure where I’d mount it have to look at the truck today. Summit Racing Derale PS cooler Are our lines 3/8 or 11/32?

@NIsaacsPrestone PS fluid from autozone. Great sale right now. @Haggar Do the fittings for the ford cooler match up to the dodge box and pump? Did you plumb it in like that between the HB and the box? What lines did you use? I wish I had a post 7.3 superduty right about now. It’s become a running joke that the 6.0s in my group are the indestructible ones. In the time my friend has gone through 3 engines and 4 transmissions, he’s never blown a pump, box, hydroboost, never had brake problems, no axle problems, jumped the truck so many times his ball joints should be dust. 37s on almost all stock parts. Never seen any other truck take that kind of repeated abuse in the dirt and just keep going. His **** doesn’t even leak. 5.9 in a 6.4 chassis..... someday

@Mopar1973Man I don’t believe I have an IR temp gun where I’m at currently but I can tell you that the lines out of the HB are damn hot, hot enough to burn me after driving the truck. That’s also in 95 degree heat mind you, everything burns regardless but the lines are very very hot even after driving 10 minutes and back to get a burger they’re almost burning. As for my ABS... an unfortunate alcohol fueled incident while working on my front end caused one of my ABS wires to become... cut. Never had an issue with that, brakes are **** anyway cant use ABS. Maybe I’ll disconnect the other one and see what happens A deal popped up for a used box and pump with 41k on them for 100 bucks shipped. I’m picking those up and I’ll swap each one separately and see if a difference is made and then I’ll know for sure, and have spares :D. Also picking up 2 of those magnetic filters I’ve seen you guys recommend for the PS return lines, if you guys know the brand or the website link it up I can’t remember what it was. I would’ve just bought a blue top and a psc pump but according to his site he’s out of the 2nd gen boxes. Sent him an email to see what’s up.

Doesn’t do it when the truck/fluid is cold but here in LA it doesnt get below 55 or 60 at night so I don’t really notice the effects of ambient temp. This truck will have 37s on it within a year so there’s no way a quick ratio will survive nor do I really want one. Unfortunately the deal I had lined up on a redhead fell through. Guy decided he needed a spare in case his brand new psc big box went out. Must be nice...

Just a bit of an update: I took the truck to Lake Tahoe and lake arrowhead and experienced the problem significantly worse in both those places than down around sea level, which says to me it’s related to air in the system. The system seems to bleed easily and I’m getting no froth or air in the pump at all. I also noticed that my steering box is leaking out of the shaft attached to the Pittman. This is pretty annoying since I bought the synergy brace to prevent that . Another thing I found is the box in my truck is absolutely a quick ratio box. A little over 2 turns lock to lock. Thinking quick ratio+35s May have killed her pretty fast. I checked both high pressure lines for any indication of blockage or the pesky Teflon liner and nada, lines are like new. Took the pumps output apart and it was clean, barely anything on the relief valve screen and parts look new. Did the hotrod power steering mod based on Cowboy’s write up and man it sure made a difference for about 2 hours and now the problem is the same if not worse. Just suddenly went to **** coming down an offramp and is happening every single stop now. I’m also getting varying brake pedal feel. Sometimes it’s squishy and goes pretty far, sometimes it’s firm and feels great. Thinking hydroboost there can’t find any leaks in brake lines. I found a decent deal on an almost new redhead box for $200 so I figure I wana get the quick ratio out of there anyway. If that solves nothing then im thinking hydroboost. Any tips on either fixing that or getting a new/used one? No leaks from it yet. Happy to be a member now and support this sweet site

I’ll probably just buy that when I get new steering even if that isn’t the problem, looks like a sweet solution. I have full synergy steering and 3g track bar conversion coming for the truck but I doubt any of that will fix this.

Yes, the truck is auto and when I let off and the engine returns to idle is when this binding happens. However, once I shake the bind loose it works great, pump will turn the tires fine at low speed but then it binds and quits again. It doesn’t groan like the pump is struggling it just doesn’t turn. For example this morning I pull into a parking lot, wheel binds when I slow down and pull in but then I shake it loose and find a spot and it pulls into the parking spot just fine. When I go to leave it binds up again. I did an adjustment on the top screw of the box probably 6 months ago and took a good amount of play out, never had any issues with it until now but maybe I should loosen that screw?

How do I tell if I have a quick ratio box? My steering column clunks like that as well, I wonder if it’s possible that the binding is occurring in the steering shaft due to worn bushings? Also, any way to determine if my pump is really bad or just shooting in the dark there?

Why do you think this would only be happening when I let off the gas if it was the box binding? What would I do to check or adjust the box

Hey guys I’m having a pretty scary issue with the truck recently that got pretty bad yesterday after a long trip. This issue or one similar seems to have occurred to the previous owner only 13k miles ago. This is the invoice for his repairs at 198k (212k now) Invoice I also have a synergy steering box brace. Whenever I’m not on the gas or the truck is decelerating the steering will get very heavy, if I’m on the highway I can tell there is no power assist when I’m on the gas. If I’m pulling into a driveway or pulling up to turn at a stop sign or something, the steering will usually lock up completely. Taking my foot off the brake and turning the wheel the other way and trying again usually frees it up then it acts normal until I slow down again. No groaning like it does when I’m not moving just silence and locked whee. I flushed out the nasty ATF yesterday and replaced with straight Napa PS fluid. No real difference. The ATF was bad, smelled burnt and had a lot of deposits in it. Way more than it should have if everything was flushed and replaced. Where do I start?

Fixed! @NIsaacs got it right. Sitting here twiddling my thumbs I went to the Napa in town and got a t3 gasket and decided to just replace it since I’ve got nothing else to do and sure enough no more scary sounds with the new gasket. There’s only a tiny bit of soot on the edge, I guess because it would only leak at high drive pressure when the smoke had cleared up? Not sure about that... Either way, thank you guys for being awesome as always

OK guys so I went ahead and whipped up a boost leak checker with some help from a Cummins forum post. Pumped it up to 25psi, well over what my boost was when I would hear the noise, and nothing. Spraying soapy water there are no bubbles on the compressor side of the turbo anywhere, nor on the boots I can access. I can’t hear any leaks at all and in the 10-15 mins I let it sit pressurized no noticeable leak down in pressure. I feared this would be the result since I was getting full 35psi of boost and the truck felt the same making great power. Where do y’all think I should go from here? I ordered the rebuild kit from turbo lab America because A I didn’t want to have to wait another 3 days to ship if you guys recommended I rebuild it and B rebuilding it sounds like a fun project and it’s got 210k on it and most likely needs it anyway. Plus. With these online classes I’ve got plenty of time to do it I came across a couple deals just seeing what is out there and I can get an he351cw for $200 or a super B special for $450. Either of those worth going for? Really don’t want a laggy turbo. I’ve got an edge JWA and would swap nozzles if I upgraded. Turn a problem into an excuse for more power :D

Would a rebuild on the turbo replace the parts that could be causing a leak? For how cheap the rebuild kits are and since it has 210k on the stock turbo I almost want to just go ahead and rebuild it

OK so I checked all the manifold bolts nothing missing there. I decided to take the compressor housing off and see what’s up in there. On the inside of the housing there are several nicks in the casting, one of which is raised high enough that i believe would definitely hit the blades, the blades aren’t damaged but Some of the tips have bright spots like the blade had been rubbing on something recently. There is also a random scratching further inside the housing. More videos if you’d like to see for yourself. After I spin the shaft I check for play. If you turn on the sound it clunks pretty good. https://imgur.com/gallery/1RCqdRb The turbo definitely has more play in it when I really yank on the shaft with some force. What do you guys think? Rebuild time? Recommendations for a cheap upgrade?