Reaper22

Would I be able to inspect this seal by taking off the compressor housing?

What are the usual symptoms of this seal failing?

Hey guys, Last night I headed home from a buddies house and the turbo (hx35) started making noise whenever I got above 15ish psi. It wasn’t gradual, truck was perfect when I got out and made noise when I got back in. I’ve never heard an exhaust leak on a Cummins or any turbo vehicle but it’s almost like the turbo itself is leaking. At first I thought it was something hitting the turbine or compressor at low rpm but when you get the boost up it sounds more like a leak. Looking around I see no soot on anything under the hood. However, I’m still able to build 36psi which is the max I could before. No extra lag or smoke, no loss in performance that I’d expect from a leak. The turbo has almost no play, only a tiny bit of lateral play when it’s hot. None when cold. The sound is like a ticking flutter that varies with turbo speed but doesn’t happen in single digit boost. I ran the truck this morning cold and didn’t hear it at first but as the turbo got warm it certainly is still happening. I then tried taking the air filter off to get more sound and I don’t think I heard it but the turbo was so loud like that I’m not sure if it’s just overpowering the sound I’m looking for. The turbo spins freely by hand, no noise hot or cold. I tried setting the air filter on some foam thinking maybe the cage was rattling and that didn’t do anything. Heres some videos, I’m not sure you’ll be able to hear it but worth a shot. https://imgur.com/gallery/yedFsLT Thanks, you guys are always helpful and cool

I like the idea of the temp reading, gives me something solid to go off of. I’ll look into getting a temp gun.

When you say check the bearing do you just mean try to move it for play or do you mean take the bearing out and visually inspect it?

Ok I jacked the truck up with the wheel on and tried to get it to move, seems to be no movement at all vertically ball joints certainly don’t move but without a second person hard to tell because the front coils start to compress as I push hard with a long crowbar. Wheel spins perfectly both directions no sounds or friction, u joints seem very tight. I decided to check lug nuts and a few were probably half as tight as they should be. Drove the truck and no clunking that I could tell but the whirring vibration is still there. No steer or clunk on bumps. The lugs were still tight enough that I can’t imagine the wheel could move but these are heavy trucks so maybe. Could be that my Toyo MTs are just getting low on tread and I’m hearing or feeling them more especially since I just rotated? Definitely some play in the tie rod ends and Pittman, what would be a budget steering upgrade for a 99’? Not fond of putting in the same parts that failed

Hey guys, I took my truck and my dirtbike out to the desert this weekend and since it was so damn hot we decided to take the trucks out for a little fun in the air conditioning. I went through some sand, did some hill climbs, nothing too crazy, used 4x4 on and off worked great. I did apparently dump a good amount of oil out of the vent tube going down a hill, though. On the drive home everything was fine didn't *notice* any noises but had the radio going and with the 5" pipe can't hear much anyways. Last night I'm driving home from my buddies and over the radio I can hear a growling and feel in the floorboard some vibrations especially over bumps. Turn the radio off, very noticeable growling in the cab and can feel a sort of whirring vibration in the floorboard. When I would hit a road marker the front passenger tire would clunk and felt like it steered the wheel a bit but only on one side. The growling got worse as I went home and even this morning pulling the truck in I noticed something is definitely off. It clunked turning into the driveway and clunked on flat ground. Strange to me that it came on so suddenly when my front end was solid before but I did hit some good bumps in the dirt. Do you guys have any advice for trying to isolate what might be causing the problem? I'm used to 1/2 ton chevy problems and over bumps it felt like bad steering but the growling and clunking on flat turns has me confused here.

Hey man yeah I figured it out. The cable that goes to my starter itself was corroded inside the jacket. I cleaned the terminals and the block connector on the positive of the main battery and it started but it did it again in a day or two. Checked the starter cable itself and the corrosion was inside that wire. Cleaned it and no problems since.

Well I got the seal pulled renting a slide hammer from the autozone, shaft doesn’t wobble with everything put back together. I read that the 450-500ft lb was only for the Dana 80 and the Dana 70 gets a 200-250ft lb torque. Either way I had to scribe the nut and just put it back where it was since I didn’t have a torque wrench with that capability. Job went smooth and no leaks this morning so we’re all good! thanks guys

So my pinion deal decided to throw gear oil all over my truck last weekend so I’m replacing it. 2 questions, first any tips on getting this seal to come out? I’ve been working at it with a hammer and screwdrivers and it doesn’t want to go. Also, not sure of the name but the input Shaft of the differential has a LOT of play. It’s moving around a ton when I’m going at the seal with the screwdriver. Really hoping this is normal, needing a rear end would not make me happy. I took a video of the play but I’m not sure how I could get it to post here. It’s moving quite a bit, though. Any advice is helpful, thanks!

Ok guys I’m still having this problem. Ordered the new contacts and plunger from Genos and replaced them, still had the same problem. Bought a new starter just to see if maybe I had done something wrong and again same problem. Strong click but no crank. Where can I go from here? Really bummed since I want to tow my trailer this weekend, any advice helps.

Thanks for the reply! The truck starts perfect when it cranks, seems like the starter is strong when it cranks. Would this be irrelevant of worn contacts?

Hey guys, I had a problem come up on my 99 on Friday. I came out to start the truck after it sitting for maybe 4 days to go dirtbike riding and the truck started at first, I moved it to the spot I load my bike and then the truck wouldn't start when I went to leave. I watched some videos and did some reading and got the truck to start by unplugging and re plugging the connector right out of the fuse box with a single brown wire. No loose battery connections and just looking around I couldnt find any loose grounds anywhere. I took the truck and it was fine the rest of the day, started fine probably 5 times. Today I went out and it happened again. No crank, clicks every time like the starter is engaging but wont spin. It isnt a relay click, definitely louder and more solid. Unplugging the batteries and letting the truck reset did nothing and neither did the brown plug the first time. Second time I unplugged it and blew it out and it started fine. Started 3 more times no problem. Any help is appreciated!

So are you telling me I’m screwed here with a $5500 boat anchor in my truck that doesn’t work right? The pump is new, is there a way to test the output of it through any of the test ports on the trans? It would likely be almost $600 just to ship it to you and back so that’s not really an option and from what you’re telling me most trans shops aren’t worth **** for getting this thing right so do I have to tear into this thing myself and check clearances or what.

Damn... so where do I go from here with it?

Alrighty, @Dynamic I gotcha some numbers. Pressure at idle (in Drive): 68 Pressure at WOT at full stall while stationary (in Drive 4hi): 122 Pressure at all shift points under normal acceleration (20-30%) 1-2: 90 2-3: 92 3-4: 115 TCC lock: 92 Pressure at WOT shift points 1-2: 110 2-3: 110 3-4: 130 TCC lock: 120 Pressure at WOT with converter locked: 122 Give or take a few psi on the WOT shifts, kinda hard to watch a gauge accurately when ur pinned to the moon.

Hey folks, now that everything in LA has been shut down I’m getting to this pressure testing. So I have a 300psi gauge and some grease gun hose but It’s only 12”. I can do the tests on jack stands with a buddy in the cab and me on the ground but will they be different than if I were driving? Would barb fittings with a hose clamp and some tubing be enough to hold the psi I’m gonna get out of the accumulator? If not what should I use

That’s what annoys me, I don’t have consistency between all shifts. If they all felt the same, clean with no bind, I would be ok with raising line pressure until I got the right feel I was looking for. Anyone else get hypersensitive to every little thing once something goes wrong? I lack confidence in this trans now :/

Seriously, thank you for helping me and everyone else out. I’ll work on getting those measurements this weekend and post back here when I get them. Thanks again.

No joke, when I saw the invoice after the guy told me it was built I laughed, he told me it was good to 900hp. Anyway, I’m in LA and the builder is in Redding about 8 hours away. I pulled the trans myself and shipped it to him, given I don’t have time for that drive up and back twice and he offered warranty on it. I can re read moparman’s sticky on reading line pressures and likely get them to you this weekend. I just spent $1100 on the aermet shaft and the TCS kit and I’m not exactly heavy in the pockets so sending it to someone that knows what they’re doing is a tough move for right now but I could stomach a VB if it’s needed. What would you say my next step is? Honestly, my truck is stock except for an edge and the exhaust/intake and I plan to keep it that way for some time. I don’t need a trans for big hp, but I know that bind is gonna shorten lifespan.

Ok I’ll tweak the TV, the band was way way too loose when I got it, massive 1-2 flare. I tightened it snug by hand then out 1.5 turns and tightened the jamb nut down. As for the valve body the guy at the shop told me it “has all sonnax valves”. I’ll attach the original build sheet. I have no idea about the intermediate spring(s). Would I have to pull the trans out to get into that servo? I wish I could build these things myself, so I’d know this ****.

WOT 1-2 is a little high at 3100ish. I pulled the clip off at the APPS and pulled the cable through until there was no play between the throttle and the TV lever. That is, they moved at the exact same time at slight throttle. TCS 2nd gear billet black servo.

I should also mention 2 things, I read Dynamics response to another post on a similar issue. However I have no idea what my clutch clearances are or how I would find or set them, I’m deeply hoping I can fix this with the pan/VB off without pulling the trans, but I gotta fix it either way. I also have a new Gov sensor and transducer, Sonnax pressure regulator valve, lock up valve, and manual valve. Clutches aren’t upgraded, just new and stock clutch count. My TV is adjusted properly with no slack and is hooked up properly.

Hey guys, first post! Stoked to be here. Anyways... I bought my truck about 2 months ago and it came with a built trans from Hartnell transmission in Redding. I proceeded to snap the Billet input shaft Which was obviously defective, and this was repaired under warranty that was thankfully transferred to me. They replaced the converter, pump, put in an Aermet shaft that I paid for, and cleaned out the rest of the trans. While the trans was out I had them put in a billet accumulator and 2nd gear servo, 4.2 ratio lever and billet anchor and strut (TCS combo kit). Before this work, the trans shifted great. Now that it’s back in, the 1-2 shift is super fast, near instant and very firm. Perfect, in my opinion. The 2-3 shift has an obvious bind up where the truck slows momentarily before the shift. Once the shift actually happens, it is firm and quick as well though not as good as the 1-2. All other shifts are great, no problems downshifting. I’m going to loosen the band again to see if this helps but it didn’t seem to have any effect when I adjusted the band the first time. The trans stays very cool so I don’t think anything is dragging when it’s in a gear. I used Dex/Merc with a bottle of lubeguard black. Would the band adjustment be different with the 4.2 lever? What would be my next steps in diagnosing this bind up?