josterbauer

New VP44 installed, and truck runs great. Starts and runs better than ever.

That is what I figured as well. Looks like time to order the pump and install.

I tried the blue chip diesel diagnostics. Everything checked out as it should. I tried to hot wire the pump directly. That still did not start the truck. Shouldn't you hear the VP44 run or turn when it is hot wired directly? I did not hear anything turn when it was powered directly.

The gauge is mounted to the fuel canister cap. It is the cap from Geno's and a mechanical gauge mounted in the cap. - - - Updated - - - Here is a list of the codes that I pulled off the truck with a scanner - P1693 - companion DTC was set in both ecm and pcm, P1689 - no communication between ecm and injection pump, P0230 - fuel pump primary circuit, P1688 - internal fuel injection pump controller failure, P0254 - injection pump fuel metering A high, P0237 - turbo boost sensor A circuit low input

So, you are saying that I should turn up the pressure for the pump to begin with? It used to run about 10 psi at idle. I guess I never looked at it while starting before. I am also referring to the gauge that I have mounted on top of the fuel canister. I will have to see if I can get a scanner to read any other codes off the truck. Mine only show the P code, then -------, then done with turning the key 3 times.

Just pulled the codes from the key trick.

Just a p1693

I was driving the truck and it just died. I checked the fuel pressure by bumping the starter and have about 12 psi. As soon as I turn the key the pressure goes down to 3 -5 psi and bounces. I have a raptor 100 pump on the truck. I jumped the relay for the pump and it constantly pumps at about 12 psi while trying to start the truck. I do not believe that the pump is bad due to it working just fine while jumping the relay. I cracked an injector line and no fuel comes out when trying to start while jumping the pump power. Any idea what would cause the no start and the raptor to act like that when starting it connected to the relay.

I will call this one good. I will check it again once we have warmer temps that we need to use the A/C. Thanks for all the help with this one. It has helped become more aware of how the A/C pressures work and function.

I will leave everything as is then. The other problem that I noticed today was the high pressure side was reading low. I do not know what would cause that. The low pressure is the same as it was yesterday, but the high side only got up to 75 psi today and never moves from there. I don't know if that had to so with the 60 degree temps. It still blew cold inside the cab. Would that be normal?

Testing it with the gauges, the compressor stayed locked up the entire time. I was just a bit worried when the pressure was at around 28 psi when at 1500 RPM. It just seems that it may be getting too close to the low side shut off. I just want to know what the A/C gurus think of running the way it is, or add a bit more r-134 to the system to get it up to the 35-40 psi mark? It was only around 75 degrees out when I hooked up the gauges, so it should go up with the temp.

Bumping up the thread. Seeing if anyone has any ideas on the pressures and adding more r-134? I have already added over what the sticker shows on the truck. The pressure is still a bit low, and seeing if I still need to add more as it is getting close to double what the sticker is showing. If there is truly 12 oz worth inside of the cans of r-134.

Sounds good. I will add more r-134 and see if it stays around the pressure that I need it to. I just did not want to add too much to the system as I already added the 32 oz (2 lbs) that is stated on the sticker. Thank you. I will post an update as soon as I add some more. - - - Updated - - - I have updated information. I added more r-134 to the system today (75 degrees). Here are some pictures to show how the gauges are reading. Low and High side at idle - Low and High side at 1500 RPM - The question I have is this good enough, or do I still need to add more to the system. The truck was at a stand still for all pictures. No fan blowing at the condenser. I have almost double the amount that the truck states to have for the initial charge.

With the compressor in the unlocked position the low pressure side is at 60 psi. When it kicks in it will kick the low pressure side down to around 30 psi or a bit lower. So I should add more then the 2 lbs that I already added to the system? With the a/c on max the compressor should always be engaged and the pressure should be at around 35-40 psi on the low side?

I vacuumed the A/C system down and recharged it with 2 lbs of r-134. It will blow really cold and cycle as it should, then the pressure on the low side kicks up high when the compressor kicks off. It will stay there for about 5 minutes and blow warm air. Then the compressor will kick on (low side down to 30, high at 200 - 75 degrees) and cool as it should. Any one have any ideas what would cause this?

Sounds good. So when would you ever need to add any pag oil to the system?

When you evacuate the system, does it take the oil from the system as well, or just the moisture and gasses? I am just inquiring about having to add oil to the system. Do not want to flood the system with oil.

Is it pretty simple to change them out? It looks like you just screw off the caps, and pull everything out and replace correct?

Went to Napa, and they had some windshield wiper hose that works great. It is 5/32" hose.

Usually when I go into the local parts stores around here, they tend to look at you with a dumbfounded look on their face when I tell them what I am asking for with out a part number that they can just type into the computer. Something like this, half the time they won't even try and figure out if they can get it, they just say that they do not sell it.

Where are the schraders on the a/c system? --- Update to the previous post... Never mind, looking at some pics, I noticed that they are replaceable. I thought that the were built directly into the line itself. I didn't see that they look like they screw out. --- Update to the previous post... Where can you get the schrader valves? Anyone have a part number?

I'm going to replace all the seals in the ac system, and see if I can find any spots that may have leaked when I replace the seals.

I have the whole hvac box apart, and looked in the box and at the evap with the uv light, and saw nothing. I will get a seal kit, and see if I can maybe take it to a good a/c place to try and nitro test it maybe.

I am in process of changing out the heater core, and the evap. I hit the evap with the light, and didn't see anything glowing, so I don't think that it was my evap. I was kind of hoping that it was, then it would solve the issue of the ac leak. I don't think that I am that fortunate.

Mine works great in the 04.5, but the 01 is the work truck. I own an irrigation company, and the guys have been on my case to get it fixed over the last 2 years. They don't like it when they have been installing all day in 90 degree plus weather, and have to ride back to the shop in a furnace. I can add the refrigerant, and it will work good for about a week or two, then go back to blowing warn air. --- Update to the previous post... Mopar, why did you have to replace the evap twice? It would be nice just to add the dye, and open the hood, check with uv light, and see a bunch of dye leaking in one place. That has not happened for me.