jag

Not meant to saddens hearts, but here is typical cracked 53k .

I recently made & installed a IAT fooler. Set it to 122 *f Made 1 trip, 23.3 mpg highway steady driving.

I just finished installing a 2005 Chevy Silverado 2500 HD steering box on my 2000 RAM 2500 4x4. The nice thing is that to start with, the box lines are the same size as well as the frame mount bolt pattern. Next was to change out the spline 1/2 joint on the steering shaft (box side), to the Chevy end, just like swapping out a u joint, same size. I had to cut the steering shaft to give it a 1/4 turn to keep everything centered up. I cut the square end at the bottom again (box side) & welded it back up. For the pitman arm, the Chevy box has 3 keyways on the splined output shaft, compared to the Dodge, it had 4. No problem, 1 of the keyways on the Chevy box lined up perfect with 1 on the Dodge pitman arm to keep everything centered up. Next was on the Dodge pitman arm. With the other 3 keyways, I cut them in half to line up with the rest of the splines on the Chev box & to line up the keyways on the Chevy box, I took a die grinder & cut 2 splines out of the Dodge arm. The BD steering brace, bearing & pitman arm nut all fit like it was made to. It was actually a very easy job & the pay off is outstanding. I can stay between the lines, no more steer, steer, steer, even coming to a stop is a WOW factor. The steering self centers just like normal coming out of a corner. I was going to rebuild my front calipers as when I usually come to a stop it would seem to pull from 1 side to the other, now it just stops straight ! I rolled over to 60 a bit ago, & this is hands down the very best upgrade I have done on this animal in the 17 years I've owned it. Now I can't quit driving it !

I have a 53 block also. At appx. 102961 miles, 1 morning it was -33c, truck was plugged in better part of 7-8 hrs. Normal startup procedure, running 825 - 830 RPM's for 2 mins. or so before kicking into high idle (Smarty). It started to ramp up nicely to 1225 - 1230 RPM's leveled off and bang, the 3 cylinder kicked in. As soon as it kicked in, there was a ping noise, & low & behold , I got anti freeze leaking from behind my bottom turbo. At first I thought head gasket until we pulled it into a garage. Got to looking around & all of a sudden there was a 2 minute silence. About I inch toward rear of engine & the length of the top turbo flange toward front, there it was, about 4 inches long of a green oozing out the side of the block. So anyway I have 121043 miles now & it still leaks, but in my favor. I built a block of JB weld appx.1 inch square & 2 inchs longer than the crack in the block. I left a 1/16 inch groove in the bottom of it about 1 inch from either end. I then tapped a 1/8" pipe thread at the front of it. Then I installed a threaded adapter with push in hose connection into it. Then I JB welded this block to the engine block over the crack & left it for 3 days. Finally I installed a 1/4 inch nylon line to the manufactured block I made & ran it to the front of the bottom of the radiator so that the leaking anti freeze from block would run down hill all the way. Took a pop bottle & drilled hole in cap for the hose & sealed it. So now every day before I start it, I take & empty the pop bottle of the leaked anti freeze, pour back into the puke tank & carry on like I have no cracked block. I will say on really hot days in summer, it will sweat a bit from around the block I made, but the majority of anti freeze flows into the pop bottle up front. & YES, I still beat the crap out of it. This is a 2000 with lots of mods!

Apparently there are different ways to read the PID'S, or I'm just not getting it. I thought WIKI was gospel.

This is a very interesting subject, & the knowledge is outstanding, But what I don't understand is that the PID's are all relating to something. For instance, say the boost reading is in a PID group under pressure's, so why can't we read the rest of the headers under the pressure PID group like trans gov pressure, or oil pressure? Same goes for temps, if we can read IAT & ECT, why can't we read the rest of the PID'S under say the temp PID group. I myself would love to see the Injection pump fuel temp. I see on Mads they use PID groups, PID short name & PID long name, but don't use numbers. OK, now I'm really lost!

I have gone through all the tips & tricks, tin foil, rewiring, noise & electrical filters, new Bosch alt., none worked, until I tried this. The ground wire going under the alt. to the passenger side battery connector ground is the bugger your looking for. Disconnect it & follow it back to the drivers side, (by the injection pump), mine has 5 other wires connected to it. Take the main ground wire & run it over to the drivers side battery & then over top of the radiator to the passenger side battery & ground it directly to the battery ground. I used 10 gauge wire & put it in wire casing to make it look pretty & then a ground from battery to the said connector where you disconnected it from. No more lock/unlock. I went as far as removing all the other magic tricks & put everything back the way it was from the factory. I couldn't be happier.

I myself wouldn't run an intank pump in combo with an aftermarket in front of it, something does not seem right in that situation to me.I got a Liberty module with the 1/2" v straw & then 1/2 line to my first fuel pump, Like said, my fuel pressure is more constant, but get off the throttle to fast & it drains the fuel.Even at the end of the 1/4 mile I still have to feather the fast pedal to get it to run on all 6 cylinders or power brake ,but thats no fun when the end of the track is to close!

Well long storey short, my liberty module got lost, but now it's found & installed.I ran 1/2" all jic8 fittings from module to first fuel pump & kept the rest jic6 to VP44.MSy old module was plugged with all kind of wierd stuff.When first primed it, you could tell the fuel pump was getting full fuel now.The letting off the fuel problem is not near as bad & my pressure is more stable,So it help some, satisfied with that.

I have tried that & also the timing for aftermarket injectors, the Cummins does not like that at all.I'm begining to think I have a fuel problem in tank, not being able to supply the needs.I have a liberty module on the way, this way I will know for sure whats going on in the there.I will update after the install, should be about 2 weeks.Thanks for the info.

Is there a cure for (NOT) draining the injectors after you get out of the throttle to fast ?Thanks