DavidC

Thanks for the quick reply. I am just trying to wrap my head around this entire issue. How long has it been since the first guy put in a good alternator and has no more problems? - - - Updated - - - I have done the BD noise issolator on both of my trucks and they don't jump around any more. but like you say I would realy like to know the root of the issue for a proper fix. Noise issolator just makes it tolerable to drive.

Mike, I understand your argument that the truck ran x amount of years without having the problem. I have been reading about the voltage regulator theory and it makes some sense to me, not that it inherently makes noise, more that in an aged and possibly degrading state that it could become a problem prior to complete failure. Wouldn't your test removing the alternator fuse also shut down the voltage regulator? Would it be better to get the one wire alternator that has the regulator built in? Thus eliminating the regulator in the PCM (and not having to replace an expensive PCM due to a degrading/failing voltage regulator) Just playing devils advocate while I'm supposed to be working. Sincerely, David Callomon

Looks like you will be a diesel specialist in no time. I would bet if the problem self corrected that it is in the wiring connections somewhere. Make sure all of the connections are tight and clean. Best of luck to you.

Machineman (Bob) Download the factory service manual here http://forum.mopar1973man.com/downloads.php?do=file&id=44 and start reading from page 14-148. Those are the wiring connections they are saying to check.

I have a friend with an '06 that has lost power and started running rough. He has a CEL on, and has codes P2149 (bank 2 (cylinders 4-6) shorted high or low) and P0205 (injector no, 5 control circuit).Any suggestions would be great.Thanks in advance!

I just did the tie rods on my 01 2500 4X4. I bought the parts ahead of time, and when iI pulled the old tie rods out of the truck and put them side by side I found they did not match. After some extensive research the parts guy and I determined that the ones on my truck matched up to a '99. nI got all the '99 model tie rods and got back after it. When I got to the tie rod that meets the pitman arm I found that the shaft on it was to small. I took it back and it was for an '01. Finaly it is all back together and now I'm wondering why someone would have changed this. I have looked at both setups and it seems to me the older tie rod setup looks a little heavier/stronger, so I am wondering is this a common upgrade some people are doing.

CJ I can always be found where there is good information to be had

I voted in your poll and posted on CF. Just thought I would post here also.I live in south Texas and have never had a VP44 failure. I bought my truck September 1, 2001 with 12 miles on the clock. I now have 205,483 miles on her. First stock lift pump replaced at 127,000 miles (don't know how long it was out). Installed Airdog at 192,000 miles. Started 2 stroke diet at 198,000 miles. Still going strong. (runs a 15.1 second quarter mile!)I know my story is not typical, but I don't mind bragging!

He had the trans rebuilt and says they put in a performance torque converter but does not know what it actualy was. The only performance stuff in the rebuild was a shift kit. He is running 150HP injectors, 62 turbo, edge comp, Smarty. It's a 98.5 24 valve. I think he is slipping his converter but for some reason he doesn't think so. I have been trying to get him to take my truck out for a run to give him a baseline feel for how it should be working. Maybe this weekend.

Thanks Mopar I appreciate the input. Hopefuly someone else may be knowledgeable about these transmissions. A lock up switch is the answer most people seem to be suggesting. We will be adding the lock up switch once we figure out the shifting issue. We need the trans shiftpoints to hit sooner to keep the motor in it's peak power range and believe that just doing a lock up switch would only help to mask the problem but is not realy fixing anything.I forgot to mention that he is running 3:55 gears same as I am. I get lock up around 75-80 WOT. When he had his trans built the guy who did it told him he did something to adjust shiftpoints but we are having trouble finding out wat that was so we can adjust the shift points. Also his truck will downshift hard if he goes WOT at 80MPH.

My buddy that I go drag racing with has a 98.5 with a 47RE in it. After racing this past weekend he asked me when does my converter lock when I'm going down the strip. I told him that it locks between 75 and 80 MPH. He was suprised and said his didn't lock until he wa about to cross the 1/4 mile line at around 94 MPH. He also said when it does that he's only dropping about 200-300 RPMs. Does this sound like he has a problem, and if so can the shift point be adjusted?Thanks in advance for your vast knowledge!

Thanks for all the input guys. I haven't been around for a week so I just got a chance to recheck my post. This weekend I'm going to go through all the electrical and check all connections. As far as I can tell who ever did the work on this truck didn't take as much time making nice connections as I would have, but then I'm an electronics tech by trade and tend to do all my wiring a little to well.

I am just figuring out the stuff on this truck. My other truck does not have the Pressureloc and I was wondering what your oppinions are on it.

Thanks Mopar, The trans has a BD pressureloc module on it. I don't know if that may cause the tranny code.

I just bought another 2001.5 2500 this one is 4X4. The check engine light has come on a few times. When I do the key trick it gives me PCU P0622 and P1765, ECU P1693 (companion code). Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.

I had the same problem from the day I bought my truck brand new. The stealership actually replaced my carpet twice and told me it was a bad weatherseal on the passenger door. finaly being sick and tired of dealing with them, and being tired of the smell of mildew in my truck I decided to find it. Well I found that where the drain comes through the firewall in the engine compartment it is just a plastic tube about 1 1/2" long. looking at the firewall it had a hole that was about 1/2" larger than the tube comming through it. I could put myfinger through and touch the insulation under the carpet. This is where all the water was comming from. I would guess that there is supposed to be a rubber bushing of some sort but it was not there.I took a washer (I think it was for a shock bushing, the kind that is like a cup with a hole in it) and drilled the center out with a step bit until it would fit over the drain tube. I filled it with silicone gasket sealer and smashed it on so it covered the gap in the friewall. Then I took a peice of rubber hose and a hose clamp and put it on the drain tube and routed it so that the watter would drop behind the passenger a-arm. Problem solved. It's worked fine for about 5 Years.