BennyGGG

Ive been reading through a few of your older posts that cover this issue. I found another more “in-depth calculator” where I was able to put in the 47re gears and see what rpm Is at what speed. http://Www.grimmjeeper.com/gears.html So I’m looking at Falken A/T3W 285/70r17 which are exactly 33” in diameter. With 3.73 gears the final ratio is 2.57. 70mph = 1834 rpm. Does that sound about right? What is the ideal cruising rpm for long haul gas mileage?

Appreciate all the info. Unfortunately Ox doesn’t make a locker for the 70 or 80. Gonna shop around a bit. Still trying to figure out the best gear ratio and tire size. I’m working out my priorities for this build as well

I’m headed to the salvage yard This week. I’ll keep my eye out. Do you really think it’s worth the trouble swapping in an 80?

Been looking at a few lockers for both my jeep and Ram. Really want OX Manual lockers but they don’t make them for a Dana 70. Bummer. So now it’s between air or electronic.

Installed a nations alternator. Looking at 50mVAC off the B+ and 20mVAC at the battery. Gonna keep monitoring it and see if I see any symptoms of excessive noise.

Ran into this exact issue on my jeep. Angles all messed up. Wicked death wobble at 55. I have all adjustable control arms and track bar. Was planning on doing similar to the truck but I think I may have underestimated a stock rams offroad capability. Again...I think I’ve underestimated her abilities. I haven’t poked around too much with the axles. Did rams come from the factory with LSDs? After I get the camper built I’ll check in with north county spring. Hard to know what I’ll need without the final weight in the back. Airbags are definitely a great option. I hoping to keep the weight down as much as possible. Gonna try aluminum framing and sheeting. Need to test these welding skills.

New denso starter installed. W-T mod and complete charge system rewiring complete. Fired right up. This is what I’m seeing off the B+ with the ground on the alternator chassis. 46mVAC with the occasional 57mVAC when something kicks on.

I’ll keep that in mind. I could see the bed flexing a bit more with all that weight of the camper.

I guess I have some things to think about. I’m Building a overland camper so there’s lots of options. I’d like to have some decent clearance and off-road performance...but I’m going to be driving this all over the country and Mexico.

Appreciate the replies. I bet it’s been tough on this truck too. I pressed out want was left of the track bar bushing and put a new one in. Steering is much better but still sloppy. Lots of new parts are going on this truck over the summer.

This is what I’m working with. Is that a spring spacer above the coil cup?

Appreciate all the info. It has a single block in the rear. I don’t recall seeing any extra leafs. The front has springs with no spacer. But I’ll need to double check when I get home.

That’s an interesting problem. Failing torque converter maybe? I’m pretty new to these trucks so I’m learning along with you haha.

Recently bought a 7 owner 2001 2500 for a overland camper project. It has a lift but I have no idea how big. From the center of the hubs to the bottom of the fender measures 26” front 28” rear (I think this is the scientific way to measure) Any idea what size life she has? Appreciate it!

Maybe it’s not a tranny problem after all. Any trouble codes?

It sure was nice seeing it all laid out and having an honest professional opinion. They cut my triple disc open and found it was practically new. So that saved me some $$$. I believe it’s a reman diesel performance. Did you build that yourself?

Metro transmission in San Marcos CA. Top notch IMO. There’s a bit of a story though. 7 owner truck. 2 owners ago a young Marine (Semper Fi) had the tranny built by a “racing” company in Ohio. It appears he had a hodgepodge of parts put in there. Triple disk TC, upgraded electronics and some billet components...but a stock output shaft and many reused worn components. So now I have the truck. Leaks tranny fluid and shifts awful. Did a few things I’m comfortable with: tranny pan gasket and band adjustment. But I never got the leak fixed. Took it to Metro. The guy laid out every part of the trans on the bench. Showed me the good, bad and ugly. Offered several ways to go about the repair. Decided to get the billet shaft and make a beefy trans. Came with a 2 year warranty. Fair pricing. Only have about 400 miles on it so far but I’m happy.

I had similar issues with my 47re. 2nd to 3rd was delayed and it shifted very hard. I was able to correct the issue by adjusting the front and rear bands. The front band was really easy. It’s on the side of the tranny. The rear band requires a fluid drain and removal of the filter. There is a good write up out there. I’ll see if I can find it. It turned out in the long run the transmission needed a rebuild so I had that done a few weeks ago.

The battery terminals are military style made by Quick Cable. I found them on eBay but Grainger also carries them. I laughed a little about the tinfoil. I still haven’t been able to start her up yet and see what the AC ripple looks like. I wasn’t able to repair that starter. The solenoid coil is shot.

Used a fluke 199C scope meter and measured a very noisy 300mVAC. Seems insanely high. Went ahead with the W-T mod but it ended up turning into a complete wire job. Found some very shoddy work to include a wire wrapped in tin foil hahaha. So a reworked the entire charging system and grounds. The only problem was when I went to remove the trigger wire from the starter the post rotated and broke the wire internally. I have a Denso in order but I’m going to try to repair the old starter tomorrow. Here’s some pics from the job. https://imgur.com/a/I2h1Wl8

Thanks! Seems easy enough. I appreciate the info.

Thanks for the reply. So I double checked the wiring diagram and it’s actually coming from the PCM not the ECM. It’s the TCC solenoid. Had no codes and no noticeable issues. Decided to cut it and see what happens. When I pulled the wire out from under the air box it has what looks like a ferrite coil. Some sort of noise reduction modification. I’m researching this now. I reconnected it in the meantime. This is it. https://www.thoroughbreddiesel.com/1300030/?gclid=Cj0KCQjwuJz3BRDTARIsAMg-HxUgdJKiwzaKd8K7NGq76q2vU9-eweBK3B2BLjy_0bCpM0ZUFC8F03UaAlg4EALw_wcB

I’m new to the forums and would appreciate any help. Just purchased a 2001 Ram 2500. It has a mild case of previous owner syndrome that I’m trying to correct. Most of the wiring issues have been pretty straightforward but there’s one in the engine bay that I need some advise on. It appears that the Org\Blk leaving the ECM has been tied directly to ground, effectively eliminating intake air heater relay 2. Anyone venture a guess on why someone would do this? here’s a pic of the wire. https://imgur.com/BtAmNmw