cowtipper

I have heard that as well, but on the site some kits come with one and some dont. There is one that has everything, (flywheel, upgraded hydros and all bearings) but only for the g56.

I am ordering it from DAP. What isnt included?

Going to have to do a clutch in my '02. H.O. Putting thinking about a valair organic/organic. @ 400 hp. It is a daily driver, work truck. Only mods is an EZ box. My only future upgrades will be a set of rv275'sI'm under a time constraint here. i have a couple of questions. Do i have to resurface the flywheel? The clutch is just starting to slip under WOT now. If it looks ok with no heat cracks or deep grooves? Ive got 307,000 on the stock clutch.

You used the 2.2 on the truck in your sig? I have an 02 H.O. We dont get the great mileage that the S.O pump guys get. Curious on how high you get it.

The air dog or raptor folks have never asked for any of my bad pumps back. They just sent new ones. Anyway, I'm done with them. Really looking at a fuel boss or an assasin. If i do use an assasin im going to use a different regulator, maybe a fuel boss or a kinsler.

Thats exactly what i did after number two. LoL.

Ive only had the seal blow out on the first one and the air dog. When i called for the warranty, i asked why they sent seals for the bottom plate and regulator but no seal for the shaft. They said it was some proprietory size exclusive to them. Well, must be because ive not been able to find one anywhere. It is an odd size and thickness. I did get something that i thought would work, but they also said that when the motor gets soaked with diesel it never really works after that. I used electronic cleaner and everything, and it never worked. My last two were just jammed with carbon from the magnets. - - - Updated - - - Just re- read your last. I suspose if i get it chucked up in the lathe you could increase the slot some to accept a thicker seal. I would think you would want to tighten the tolerance between the housing and the bearing to take the slop out between the two and that would be a bigger bearing. If i had to make one i wouldnt have to buy one. Goint to go to an assassin anyway. Im very experienced with mechanical pumps out of my race cars so going to the keep it simple stupid approach.

Thats the frustrating part, all the major forums have a hundred guys with a pump that has lasted forever. I obviously cant get another pump that was built in the good old days. Seems to me if a company keeps putting out junk they would do something about it.

I really just want to see if it is just me or if others have the same luck. 3 years ago i smoked an airdog 150. Bad seal between motor and pump burned it up. 8 months thirteen days on that one. Replaced with a raptor 100. 123 days later, bad seal, smoked motor. Replaced with a raptor 150, Big lines from DSV to VP. A year and change later. Dead. Opened it up and I'm telling you, no magnets left. Just a big pile of soot and carbon inside. Replaced with a warrantied 150. Eight months to the day, same thing. Dead. Only this time, brushes as well. I rigged up a stocker with some fittings and hooked it to the biglines of the Raptors, plugged it into the raptor harness and away we go. Holds 14 steady with an easy foot and thats what i'm going with. I am not a fan of those pumps and going to run this untill i can afford an assasin. Got to be the biggest pile of horsepucky ive ever seen. :moon:

I dont know where to put this. You cant tell from the video but apparently the D-Max guy was shooting his mouth off to the Dodge guy. One way to settle it i guess is by doing this. It is hilarious.http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k7OegetyaRI

Is this your first "guage"? What are the differences between the ultra and just the SGII?

Thanks.

I'm hooking up a resistor to my IAT for the MPG mod. I'm going to use a DPDT switch. One position to the IAT for cold mornings, the other position to the resistor. The only IAT extension cord anyone has heard of is for a gasser. Are the plugs the same? Anyone know of where to get one for a diesel?

Anyone got a schematic of their toggle setups? Or how they wired in the IAT fooler?

Looking at doing the IAT resistor. What wattage do i need for the resistor? Do i need any other ends for it or just plug it in.

I think the MAP gets dirty if you have an exhaust brake. Im sure someone here will correct me if im wrong,

Yes, banjo is gone, I cannot remember the exact sizes, i did it in my race shop and used some fittings for a sprint car motor fuel system. The one for the banjo fitting was a npt to i think a dash two fitting, then a dash two with a pushlock ninety. Its two fittings, then a 5/16 fuel hose to the T. the T is a 5/16 pushlock T .

I loosen the dipstick and swing it out of the way. Then just lay on up on the valve cover and act like your giving it a big old bear hug. Your left arm can get in around the turbo, and the right goes in above the return tee. Go in with the wrench in hand on the left, I think i used a 11/16 cant remember. With your finger through the box end you can feel it to toghten it. Personally i gave up on the p.o.s. and screwed in a fitting with a pushlock and removed all the leaking crap. I used a 5/16 pushlock "T" and fuel hose and hoseclamped it to the back of the head line, pump return line and the main return to the tank. Hasnt leaked yet.

Is that in the front, passenger side like below the thermostat?

Update. Quarter inch vaccum hose cut to length. Exact match to the originals. Cost me thirty cents for a half foot.

I'm taking out the two bolts that hold the dipstick in place and swinging it out of the way. Then getting on top of the motor and getting at it from the top. It would be easier with the dipstick out but I can't seem to get mine out.

Its the fitting that the line from the back of the head and the line from the vp join together and then return to the tank.

Anyone know what kind of o ring is in the return T? I tightened it up and it looks like part of a rubber o ring comming through where the line goes in. Any other places other than dealer. Dont have one near me and im hosing down the undercarrige with 4.59 diesel. Any other ideas on a fix or replacement?

The hose and bottle is the tube over the bleeder leading into a bottle of fluid. Crack open the bleeder valve and pump the brake. It's for a one man operation. I have no help here to bleed. I dont have any speed bleeders. Any other one man way to quickly bleed the brake?

Any tricks to reassemble and bleed? Other than the standard fill and use the hose and bottle?